Andy Moss

Those that have already added an epoxy liner. I wish you all the best and sincerely hope that yours does not fail like mine did. I applied mine 5 years ago and it seems to have decomposed. Perhaps I did something wrong in the application or it could be the ethanol in petrol affecting the lining. All the best and thanks for your suggestions.

Ok. Something I did not question was why I needed an epoxy coating on the inside of a perfectly sound petrol tank. I would urge people to consider that before using these products. Given the problems that I have had I do not recommend them. Question is, if it hasn't rusted in the last 40 years do you think it will now, given that it will probably be treated better by the decerning Classic owner. You have been warned.

Never put an epoxy coating in your fuel tank. WARNING!

New fuel tank installed. The problem has vanished and I am pleased. Yippee. Thanks for the help guys.

Bought at new tank. That stuff will not budge and I can't trust it to not keep causing the fault. I got a quote to recondition the tank of more than £400. One of the baffles came loose in the stripping process. New tank is much cheaper and is probably Where I'd end up if I spent more on the decon process, so decided to cut and run. Ta

Im thinking tank out. Wash it out. Chuck some pebbles in a wag it around a bit. Rinse with petrol. Use some of this stuff: http://www.rust.co.uk/0007-as10-resin-remover/p506329/ Rinse again. Fuel pipe to sit 1/2 inch proud of the tank bottom. I'll let you know how it goes. If only I had not put that resin in the tank! I will not add any this time, because who knows what they will put in fuel next. Thanks for your help guys. I hate intermittent faults.

I have just been for a run in the car and it happened again on the drive just as I got back. No fuel in rear carb. No fuel delivery from the pump. Only trickle coming from the pipe just below the tank. I emptied the tank yesterday and it gushed out, but when it stopped I thought it was empty. It had just dragged crud into the pipe. I pushed strummer cord up the pipe to free it of debris. I removed the fuel tank sender to take a better look inside and found that the epoxy I used on the inside of the tank is decomposing and flaking which is causing the blockages. What should I do? Can the tank sealer be removed?

All the hose were ok, but they had hardened with fuel contact. There were a few funny shaped marks where the clamps had cut in. I blew through all the lines. The last resort will be to replace the copper pipe that runs from the tank to the front. Could it be the 1/4" copper fuel pipe? I haven't taken the car for a run yet. I'm aprehensive about breaking down again.

I have the braded transparent hoses connected at the moment. I went to the motor factor yesterday and got some back rubbed fuel hose to see if that helps. I will fit it today and let you know what happens. Thanks Pete.

Air leak or collapsed hose?

I did this at the road side. Not much was coming through from the pump for both carbs. The rear one emptied first.

I fitted the new pump tonight a nasty looking aftermarket one, but if it works then great. I made sure that the leaver was on top of the cam, so it was angled forwards and then tilted back onto the studs as it was fitted. Connected it all up and it was fine. Then I developed what I thought was a misfire again. I removed the ht leads to front and rear plugs and found that the 2 rear ones had no rear effect. Because it was affecting both of them I thought it's probably not ignition, but the read carb. I switched off and removed the rear carb float chamber lid and found there was vertually no fuel in it. The front one didn't have much in it either. I am either developing a fuel blockage, vacuum, or the pump is not operating after a short drive. Any clues? I am sure it's not the pump. Could the mechanical fuel pump leaver be falling off the cam shaft. Help me - anybody?!!!!!!!

Ok. Convinced that the problem was vapour lock I have bought and fitted a heat shield. Driving along fine at 30, but when I accelerate to 40mph it did the same just now. I was expecting it and this seems to be the way the fault is exposed. Instead of cranking the engine over, I pumped the manual fuel primer on the fuel pump. Normally, when the fuel pump has primed the system this lever has no real effect. But as I pumped the lever I could hear the float chambers refilling. I now suspect that the fuel pump is man enough to maintain 30mph, but as more fuel is used at higher speeds the float chambers become depleted and the car dies. What do you think to the above idea? I replaced the pump seals the other year because I wanted to keep the original unit. Does anybody know where I can get a good original unit? Thanks for the help and advice. Andy

Thanks Richard. Useful idea. I was looking for a rolling road the other day and found one in yate.

I seem to me getting a bit fed up with the breaking down problems. Usually 5 minutes in. I tried heating the carbs and fuel lines with a heat gun when the engine was hot. It didn't replicate the problem. I have a Lucas sports coil fitted with the accuspark ignition. Could that be the problem? I am tempted to get an accuspark coil and try that.

All fine but it was a cooler evening. I reckon it must be vapour lock. I have wound somes string round the copper fuel pipe near the manifold to insulate it. I think I'll replace it with something more substantial soon. Hope that solves it.

Put electronic ignition back and reset timing. Checked carb floats/valves - no debris. Already had red rotor that is a couple of hundred miles old. Sorted fuel leak after messing with the connection to fuel pump lots of fuel leaking so doubt a blocked pipe. Did have an after market fuel pump a while ago, but swapped back to an overhauld original, checked it functioned last night, causing the oil leak. Off for a spin. Let you know, but I don't think I've found the culprit yet.

I will check the float chambers after I have broken down tomorrow!

Just sucked the filler cap lid (quite an unpleasant experience) but there seems to be air coming through. Probably not causing much of a vacuum, but I will give it a try next time it conks out. I removed the in-line filter tonight to see it that was the culprit. Not talent it for a run yet. I will probably put the accuspark back first. Please keep your suggestions coming. Thanks guys.

Reaching the end of my tether. I like to go for a evening drive in the spitfire. Trouble is that after a few miles the car starts to run badly then it stalls and I coast to a lay by. Restored a few years ago. So far: Ignition system has sparks, Carbs have fuel, changed HT leads, changed from accuspark back to points and condenser. I don't understand, if there are Sparks and fuel why does it not run ok ? It usually happens after a little while at constant speed (e.g. 40mph). Each time I have got home having restarted the car and using lots of choke. The car never has and difficulty turning over. Idle can also be erratic, runs fine at 7-800 rpm then suddenly drops to 200. I tried switching the coil over at the side of the road, but the fault never went away. Could I have vapour lock due to heat. How would I know. Checked valve clearances (a little while ago), ingition 6deg btdc, dwell ~40deg. Baffled - please help!