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Kiajon

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Posts posted by Kiajon

  1. Afternoon. Whilst getting on with my greasing and oiling (see my other questions) I thought I’d check out the electrics. To be honest I wished I’d kept greasing!

    My back end seems fine - so to speak - indicators, brake lights, reversing light all good! The front, not so good! The headlights, side lights don’t work. The headlights will flash main beam but not go on to main beam. I then noticed the horn only worked with the main beam flash!? 
    I changed the fuses - didn’t know which was which so I changed them all - but no improvements. I’m trying to get my head around the wiring diagrams - being a bear of very little brain this is challenging - and have a lovely colour version from a different thread. But where should I be looking at on the the car? 
    Any clues/starting points would be gratefully received!

    Thanks again.

    Jonathan

     

     

  2. Grease! Looks like I’m going down the Land Rover swivel joint grease route. 
    Next question. Should the grease nipple for the steering be at the very bottom of the rack (on the end) or am I looking in the wrong place? After this it’ll be rear wheel bearings! 

  3. Ok then chaps. Back to my trunnions. I’ve unscrewed one of my nipples (no sniggering, this isn’t a carry on film!) and.... nothing came out. The part of the screw inside the trunnions seemed kind of black and slimy so my first thought is that they’ve been greased in the past. Is there any way I can check to make sure? Oh, and to make things more interesting my nipples are different sizes and shapes! What fun! 

  4. The spare is definitely tubed. Flat as a kipper’s fingers and the valve pushes in and pops out like a bike tyre! I’d reckon the others are going to be the same. Any views on knock on alloys? Would save me the pain of changing the hubs! 

  5. Trunnionless? Does this require some sort of operation? Can any grease gun also push oil? I’ve just bought one for greasing my bits from my local hardware store, I’m happy to go and get a second one.

  6. Hi there people. I hope you enjoyed the bank holiday...... locked in!

    I’ve been working on getting the Spitfire 1500 back on the road (after 15 years off).

    The brakes will be refurbed, oil has been changed, gearbox oil changed, coolant changed, currently working on the gearbox tunnel cover (insulating/repairing) along with various other little bits. Still need to top up rear dif (Is it possible to drain and change oil? Can’t see a drain plug).

    My question for today is all about greasing. I have a shiny new grease gun and suitable grease! The question is where/how to grease. I presume there is a grease nipple somewhere at the bottom of the steering column. The drive shaft joint near gearbox must need greasing but how?  I’m confused about the trunnions. Grease or oil? What if previously it was done with the wrong one? (Eg grease not oil or vice versa). Where else should I be sticking my grease gun (keep it polite please gentlemen!😉) and are there any tricks to doing it?

    Thanks again.

  7. 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    when you get round to new tyres get the wires trued up you will need a tyre that accepts inner tube ,  that will be fun  

    really   wires  they are nasty things, just go flat at speed punctures and the rims move all over the place , fitting alloys or steel will transform the handling beyond belief

    tubless certainly more stable and safety first    wires just look pretty  not much else and have you tried to remove the nuts on the hub  adaptors   truely  ..........   awful   

    Oh great. Another job to add to the list. And quite a nasty one! 

  8. Loving the advice and mild cynicism! I'd already thought about the tyres (wire wheels 155 80 r13) as they just feel very..... not rubbery! They'll be changed once I'm at a point to actually take it on the road (and down to the MOT garage) I've had a quote for refurbing the calipers and the new ones via the TSSC shop are cheaper!!! Go figure! Might need a new credit card!!!!!!

  9. 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

    not looked but some have 3 the   rears pipe into one cyl out to the other and that has the bleed . it works ok 

    unfortunately  they can shear off rather than unscrew, use a socket and take it easy , some heat might help

    and yes its just unscrew and refit with new one ( well easier said than done ) 

    if you are less experience i would suggest exchange or as new calipers  Club shop are selling brand   NEW TYPE 14 FOR £66 EA

    Pete

    I did wonder whether perhaps one of the rear brakes was linked to the other. I have some night time workshop manual reading to do me thinks. 

  10. Cheers for all the info. Looks like the beginning of another learning curve! So, refurb everything - callipers, cylinders, new master cylinder, new flexible hoses (I assume there are 4 - not checked my manual yet), pads, and bleed screws in all four corners (rather than in three as I have at the moment! - are they all the same? Front and back bleed screws?). Is refurbing the callipers a job a technical numpty - who's quite good at reading and watching tutorial videos - could do? Or should I send them away, if so to where?

    Now, where's the credit card?

     

  11. Hello again. So, after 15 years or so, the old girls is running again. I’ve started on the fluids, greasing etc. I’m waiting for oil, coolant, new hoses etc so I thought I’d look at the brakes and I’m confused! Just for a change.

    The disk callipers at the front have silver bleed screws (one of which seems completely seized - is replacing just a matter of unscrewing the old one and fitting a new one?). The rear passenger hub seems to have a standard bleed nipple (whatever the ‘standard’ is) but the driver’s side drum doesn’t. It just seems to have a screw head. Is that normal? Should I replace it for a nipple? 
    I haven’t refurbed/replaced the master cylinder (yet) but I remember the brakes being pretty rubbish before. Is fitting a servo easy/recommended/possible/worth it? 

    Cheers for your help again.

     

    Jonathan
     

  12. Morning chaps. My new points, points, condenser and rotor arm arrived and I thought I'd pop them in. Haha.

    I've attached a couple of photos of my problem wire. It was just (I think) attached to the points but only just if at all (could this be the problem with the spark?)

    Where is it supposed to go and how do I attach it? Am I getting the soldering kit out? 

    20200514_104056.jpg

    20200514_104112.jpg

  13. At the mo I’m using brand new fuel from a petrol can (new piece of fuel hose from pump into can) as I didn’t think the fuel in the tank (what there is of it) would be any good. I’ve also popped a fuel filter in the line just to make sure. 

    • Like 1
  14. The old girl hasn’t been on the road for 12 years or so. It hasn’t run in all that time. Thanks for the heads up on the red rotor arm and the kit. I’ll make sure I order the correct thing. Along with an o ring. Is it worth getting a refurb kit for the carbs? How easy is it to do?
    Hopefully now I can start on the ‘not firing up’ problem.

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