JohnD
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Posts posted by JohnD
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TR6
in Fuel System
Little used? Gum in the jets? Carb cleaner spray or a bottle of Redex or similar in the tank?
John
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The "Distributor adaptor"? Where the shaft on the body of the dizzy goes into the bore in the block?
It should not be " an extremely tight fit"! I don't know if the different dizzies, Lucas/Delco, had a different OD on that shaft, could that be the answer?
And "Packing" Do you mean setting the end float? The description in the Haynes isn't clear, try that in the Brown Bible:
Sorry, first part not clear:
"8/ Place a flat washer on top of the oil pump shaft bush.
9/ Fit the distributor drive shaft and gear in position over the washer, ensuring that the oil pump drive dog is engaged."
I would "ensure the oil pump drive dog is engaged" first of all!
You'll note that the examples are worked in 'thou', so you do need a micrometre for this, to measure the test washer. I keep such a washer whose thickness I have measured for this purpose. If you don't have a micrometre perhaps you know someone who does, or a friendly workshop who would measure one for you? A Vernier gauge might be sufficient. If you have a good light and reasonable eyes, a Vernier will measure to tenths of a millimeter and that is 4 thou, which is just less than the allowed end float.
Good luck!
John
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There's one craftsman who can build up the main cap for you.
Here's another in the US. "Custom Thrust Washers" specialise in making, well, custom thrust washers, of whatever thickness you require.
See: https://customthrustwashers.com/ or email Scott Helms at thrustwashers@gmail.com or sportycars@britishcarweek.org.
John -
12 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Grow up John.
Else I resurrect some of your old posts!
Doug
Go on then, I could do with a laugh.
John
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9 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Dave is a friend and knows full well, that was a joke. But not you, obviously.
Doug
Maybe so, Doug. What about anyone else who doesn't know you, looks at your post records and that you are an AO, and thinks, this guy knows what he's talking about! I can leave my worn through thrust bearings a while longer if he says I can. And another boat anchor is made!
John
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Dave,
That you have that much end float shows that the thrust washers are worn. The risk is that they will fall-out of the groove in the block main bearing housing. That was machined so that they would not fall out, as long as they did not wear more than a certain amount. An amount defined in the wear limits in the manual.
So "a few thou more than the limits" risks that the washers will fall out into the sump. Is that a problem? No, unless the crank then bearing on the naked block surface and wearing that and itself worries you! Once that happens, the crank and block are scrap.
No, Dave, and NO dougbgt6, it will NOT be fine!
As soon as you, can get the thrust washers replaced. Oversized washers, +5 and +10 are available, and may used combination to get the end float back within limits. Custom extra-sized washed may be ordered from the US.
The job involves removing the main bearing cap. It's possible,but difficult on the Vitesse, because of the long sump, with the engine in the car. Better done with engine out.
Good luck!
John
PS shame on you, doug, for such misleading advice.
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How much slightly pregnant would you not like to be, Dave?
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If you run points, why carry a spare condensor?
Condensors may fail in two ways:
1/ they conduct electricity, shorting the points, so no spark, there or at the plugs
2/ they fail to 'condense', to act as a capacitor. Sparks continue, but at the points the spark will be fiercer, wearing them out quicker.
In either situation, the correct solution is to remove the condensor! Ignition will continue, you can drive home or go on your journey. All that happens is that the spark at the points will "arc", be stronger and more erosive to the points, which will wear out faster. You may install a new condensor and points at leisure in the comfort of your own garage, instead of at the roadside in rain and wind!
The inventor of points ignition, Charles Kettering in 1912, found within months of having his new invention installed in Cadillacs that a condensor was needed to prolong point life from 1000 to at least 6000 miles. Somehow, that the system works perfectly well without a condensor seems to have escaped anyone, even a century later!
John
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I fitted a T9 gearbox last year, after bursting two Triumph boxes in quick succession. But then the engine has got yo 170bhp. See: https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/9855-fitting-the-ford-t9-gearbox/#comment-138717
John
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That's the sort of thing I have on SofS's tank.
Which was a bespoke item, made for me by a local workshop to my drawings. I'll send contact details to anyone who wants, but there must be small fabrication shops all over who can TiG weld!
The gauge is at the back (front on the car), the lowest as the Vitesse floor slopes towards the front. The large access hatch was to fill it with foam to comply with FIA regs, which was a complete PIA as it then took ages to fill! I've taken it out and left a piece under the filler to satisfy the scrutes!
The swirl pot is a necessity with Pi, especially with the wide shallow tank that was in Silverback, the Estate. I've just continued it on SofS and not bothered about anti-surge baffles. If yours has EFi, Roger then I'd recommend doing that!
John
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What happened to your old one? But surely someone could measure up theirs for you?
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Roger,
Workshop below just made a bespoke radiator for my other project. It was a bit more than your tank's estimate, but half of that was the matrix.
If you sent Howard a drawing he might do you a better price: https://www.mrsheattransfer.com/
John
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A flat rubber washer won't get into the gap around the stud. Got to be quite narrow, like an O-ring!
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TRy this, Iain.
Select an O-ring that is just a tightish fit on the cover stud - not too tight! Push that down to the cover, then a washer, finally the nut.
Don't try to do the nut up very tight, the cover is too flexible, but enough to compress the O-ring under the washer and force it into the ring around the stud where the cover hole is a loose fit. This seals the hole.
You will probably have to replace the O-rings every so often - they get chewed up in the gap>
John-
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Excellent! Thank you for the reassurance!
John
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2/ Once you have restored the chassis, the best protectinwpuld be galvanising it. That involves a dip, so.some protection inside the rails. BUT covering it in zinc can make it rather heavy!
3/ use "weld through" ( or weld-thru?) Primer.
1/ doesn't matter - this doesn't require a delicate process! But be prepared to have a set of lace rails returned to.you!
5/ haven't done this recently so no idea.
6/ welding? Good welding! TiG unnecessary, MiG or gas fine, but few body shops do gas any more.
John
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Wagger,
An alternative question, please!
I have a TRansit (Mk6) as my race barge, and as such it doesn't get used a lot. I have a CTEK battery charger that lives IN the van, plugged into the battery. When it's parked outside, I run the camp-ground 'hook-up' cable to it from the garage and the CTEK lights up. I just leave there , until I use the van again, maybe in three or four weeks time. Is this good/bad/OK for the battery?
Thanks,
JOhn
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Try a good clean, get all the old oil off, and then dust it with flour. Yes, good old self-raising.
This sticks to the oil and can show you the source.John
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10 hours ago, Wagger said:
JohnD,
Mine cost £100 fifteen years ago, but I needed a good one then for work. Just make sure it will measure DC and choose one with ranges from 20 to 200 amps. If you want to measure starter motor currents go for 500 amps.
You don't need high accuracy if looking for leakage and drain as you really want a reading of zero. With some it is best to reverse the orientation and average the two readings.
Thanks, Wagger!
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Wagger absolutely right! A "clamp meter" has a 'claw' that is closed - loosely! - around the wire to be tested. It reads the current without even touching it! Incredible!
I don't have one, so I looked to see and they come at all prices, £10-60! So affordable to mmmmmmmmmm-Could do - but! What price for a 'decent' one, Wagger?
John
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You have a short from the starter solenoid.
But that doesn't tell you much, as the power supply to the rest of the car comes via that. See:
Your analytical method is excellent, it may be easier to use your meter, if it can measure currents, but beware - most cheap multimeters can only tolerate less than 10A, and your short drops bettery volts so quickly it may be more.
Good luck!
John
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On 08/02/2024 at 18:01, foshi said:
sure they did make more 1600 s, a lot had the 1600 engine removed for the 2lt back in the day
The 1600 wasn't such a sparkling motor then?
Triumph missed the boat by never putting a 2.5 L in, but then it would have competed directly with the TR6. Even more so with the GT6!
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There was a twin engined Mini at Golspie a few years ago. Its solution to the perennial problem of synchronising gear changes was PNEUMATIC!
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Didn't they make more 1600s than 2L Vitesses?
Just never come my way!
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TR6
in Fuel System
Posted · Edited by JohnD
Richard is quite right about petrol risk!
I've made a gandy hadget to test them all at once, a rack with a trough and a flange that has six holes drilled to take the injectors. The trough catches the sprayed fuel and It can be sat in a large tin (Catering Coffee) to catch overflow. See pics.
Disconnect the ignition, ensure your battery is well charged and move all the injectors to the rack. Turn the engine on the starter, until you see fuel flowing - you hope spraying! - from the injectors.
In this way comparison of volume and spray pattern becomes very easy!
Good luck,
John
PS. The red stuff isn't blood , it's Haematite sealant in the seams. I smeared it on before pop riveting them together.