JohnD

If it's not the solenoid it must be the starter. The Bendix may have jammed in the starter ring - try engaging first and rocking the cartoon and fro, to free it. Or else, there may be a square cut into the back of the staret shaft that you can get a spanner on. But what sort of starter? The above applies to an original type. If you have a 'pre-engaged' type then check the connections. The motor will not turn until the pinion is engaged by the secondary solenoid on top.of the motor. Good luck! John

Colin, Your example of a broken trunnion shows a gross lack of lubrication to the lower threads, that are so gunged up as to be a disgrace! I will charitably (this being nearly Xmas) assume that this is a generic example, and not one of yours! 😁 But, yes, the greatest strain is at the top, nearest the fulcrum. Trunnions are, or should be, made of bronze, which is almost incorruptible, so oil isn't a factor there. It IS lower down where adequate lubrication will reduce the lever moment on the top part. John

What about financing a GRP firm to make moulds for the wings etc? I know purists will grasp their pearls and be anguished, but then panels could be run off as required? John ,PS As long as it was done for free, between friends as it were, I don't think that there would be the legal liabilities that a paid for service would incur. In fact. I own a lathe, and some other bench tools and would welcome a challenge! Presently, I'm making solid alloy ARM mount bushes. But tiny brass screws? Mmmmmmmmmmm! Might be beyond me! J.

Classic technique!

Nicely done, Paul! Looks as if you bent it hot? John

It's more expensive than Hylomar in a tube, but an aerosol of the sealant makes spreading a thin, even layer much easier! https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/hylomar-universal-m-aerosol-gasket-sealant-hmmaero-200m?vat=on&currency=GBP&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=ShoppingUK&utm_campaign=ShoppingUK&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAjKu6BhAMEiwAx4UsAuCqBkwrfxQIPK-3vKRmloVUrNZz19BjKl5Ial4ONlk8oBce1O9RXxoCGIAQAvD_BwE John

A way to isolate an oil leak is to wash all the old oil off ( engine cleaner and a hose pipe) and the dust the part with flour! Talc might do instead. Then run the engine. The leak will.stand out. John

You surprise me, Pete! As the object is to flatten the bell, a flat faced hammer and a flat surface to strike on is best, when a Ball pein will reverse the bell, or worse, expand the metal and distort the bolt hole. I use a piece of ancient 1/4" plate whose end face I have filed flat.

As mentioned above, a leaking sump flange (IF that is the source!) is usually the fault of the DPO (Damned Previous Owner), who has overtightened the bolts. These bolts should be tightened to 16-18 lbs/ft. That's all! Remember that 10-12 lbs/ft is 'hand tight', the torque you can exert using only hand muscles. Use a torque wrench! Many such wrenches can't measure such a low torque, but the 'beam' wrench can, is cheap and very reliable! When the DPO heaves on the sump bolts " to make sure they don't leak", they will distort the thin sump flange, and cause it to 'bell' around the bolt holes, crushing the gasket and making a leak inevitable, not just for them but for for all future owners, as the bell prevents the flange compressing the gasket along its length. When the sump is off, and the flange cleaned, inspect it with a straight edge and a strong light behind to look for belling. If present, use gentle hammer strokes against a flat surface to straighten them out. For a fuller explanation see: https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/108-correcting-the-sump-flange-to-prevent-leaks/#comment-730 John

As you must well know, there never was a factory Vitesse estate. Park Royal made them by adding Vitesse parts to a 13/60 Estate (or vice versa) Any way, the tailgate HAS to have been 13/60 Estate, when the Vitesse looked like this: While a 13/60 Estate tailgate looked like this: The two recesses are different shapes! (Surprise, surprise!) If the Park Royal Vitesse Estates ever had a "Vitesse" boot trim, the PR must have cut it to fit. A quick Google for images shows that they never had that boot trim: Park Royal Vitesse Estate - Google Search John

Adjustable??? How, please?

Surely steel inserts will set up electrolytic corrosion? Would alloy inserts be possible? John

Bronze might be better than copper or brass! https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/Copper-Nut-Hex-M.html

I think you have vertical scratches on the bore. If you can feel them with a fingernail then a rebore is mandatory.

£2K! A pro might charge twice that, fir good reason, but DiY shouldn't cost that much! Or is it while since I rebuilt an engine?