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JohnD

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JohnD last won the day on March 17

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  1. The chemistry of rust removal is that any acid will convert iron oxide into iron 'acidate', in this case iron citrate. A 'strong' acid, like sulphuric or hydrochloric will attack the native iron as much as the oxide, so 'weak' acids are used,usually organic acids like citrate. The point about phosphoric acid is that iron phosphate is almost insoluble in water, so it remains on the part, while other acid's products will wash away. So for heavy rust, as in the example above, use citrate/acetic etc first ( or electrolysis). Once all the old rust is removed wash in clean water. Flash rust will occur! But a second treatment with phosphoric will convert that to a layer of phosphate which will not rust any further and is an excellent surface to cover with primer and paint. John
  2. "Appears to be a good deal on NOS, NGK BP5E plugs on Ebay. £6.70 for 6 (inc postage)" Spark plugs for £1.10 each? If it looks to good to be true, ...... NGK are a favourite makes to be faked. John
  3. Delete "safety glasses". If you wear prescription glasses, the 'safety glasses won't fit over them, and will steam.up. Far better is a Visor, worn like a welding helmet. And if you're as old as I am, overalls with knee pads!
  4. Wow! I hope you bought a lottery ticket that day, AND a diamond tiara for with the prize you must have won, because she's worth it! More seriously, lorry workers will use a crib, a stack of timbers that lock together, under the vehicle. An old pallet can be a useful source. John
  5. Yes, mobile, in your breast pocket. If your car falls on your leg, you can call for help. If it falls on your chest, you won't need to. John
  6. DVD, Someone who makes Spitfire looms might add the wiring you want for upgrades, if you specify where the new wiring must go and the position of the components it supplies, to make you a bespoke loom. I can't suggest who you should ask, but you are clearly good at research! John
  7. Direct drive compressors, I was warned, are much noisier than belt driven. I didn't listen, and after I bought one, I couldn't hear! I built an enclosure for it, to sound "proof" ( shouting helps) and then had to fit an extractor fan to stop it overheating! John
  8. Who said "don't left foot"? Before Euan? Yes, it is a thoroughly competition-related technique, NOT recommended for road use! For a reasonable guide (I don't say 'definitive'!) see: The Definitive Guide to Left Foot Braking - Driver61 John
  9. Rather than merely a case of not the best pads, I fear that "gradual loss of brake performance" over a trip of 200 miles (?), with the symptoms described, indicates a loss of mechanical efficiency in the brake system. Thorough inspection needed, starting with the state of the fluid, movement of the master cylinder, state of the flexy hoses and movement of the cylinders. I'll stick out my neck and say the last - are they both moving, in both calipers, no seizure? Sorry, but just changing your pads in this situation is unlikely to improve matters. John
  10. JohnD

    TR6

    Richard is quite right about petrol risk! I've made a gandy hadget to test them all at once, a rack with a trough and a flange that has six holes drilled to take the injectors. The trough catches the sprayed fuel and It can be sat in a large tin (Catering Coffee) to catch overflow. See pics. Disconnect the ignition, ensure your battery is well charged and move all the injectors to the rack. Turn the engine on the starter, until you see fuel flowing - you hope spraying! - from the injectors. In this way comparison of volume and spray pattern becomes very easy! Good luck, John PS. The red stuff isn't blood , it's Haematite sealant in the seams. I smeared it on before pop riveting them together.
  11. JohnD

    TR6

    Little used? Gum in the jets? Carb cleaner spray or a bottle of Redex or similar in the tank? John
  12. The "Distributor adaptor"? Where the shaft on the body of the dizzy goes into the bore in the block? It should not be " an extremely tight fit"! I don't know if the different dizzies, Lucas/Delco, had a different OD on that shaft, could that be the answer? And "Packing" Do you mean setting the end float? The description in the Haynes isn't clear, try that in the Brown Bible: Sorry, first part not clear: "8/ Place a flat washer on top of the oil pump shaft bush. 9/ Fit the distributor drive shaft and gear in position over the washer, ensuring that the oil pump drive dog is engaged." I would "ensure the oil pump drive dog is engaged" first of all! You'll note that the examples are worked in 'thou', so you do need a micrometre for this, to measure the test washer. I keep such a washer whose thickness I have measured for this purpose. If you don't have a micrometre perhaps you know someone who does, or a friendly workshop who would measure one for you? A Vernier gauge might be sufficient. If you have a good light and reasonable eyes, a Vernier will measure to tenths of a millimeter and that is 4 thou, which is just less than the allowed end float. Good luck! John
  13. There's one craftsman who can build up the main cap for you. Here's another in the US. "Custom Thrust Washers" specialise in making, well, custom thrust washers, of whatever thickness you require. See: https://customthrustwashers.com/ or email Scott Helms at thrustwashers@gmail.com or sportycars@britishcarweek.org. John
  14. Go on then, I could do with a laugh. John
  15. Maybe so, Doug. What about anyone else who doesn't know you, looks at your post records and that you are an AO, and thinks, this guy knows what he's talking about! I can leave my worn through thrust bearings a while longer if he says I can. And another boat anchor is made! John
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