griffipaul
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Posts posted by griffipaul
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On my unmolested Vitesse ,body plate was on rh side bulkhead held on with self tappers , commission plate on lh pop rivetted , just taken them off th restore bulkhead.
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Vitesse mk2 spares catalogue says 2 front 1 rear= 3 per side , .....use penny washers as appropriate.
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Roger ,If you look in Bodywork section of forum , at post Plastic Gearbox Cover , last entry dated , April 14 2020 , you will see my saga of fitting a Moss tunnel .
Happy to discuss further with you via pm .
Best regards
Paul.
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fitting rack gaiters is so far worse job in the world I have encountered , roflexes and gearbox rebuilds were a doddle in comparison. tool is great idea will need it when the rubbish boots I fitted fail any time soon .Will then try the c doig ones . to add insult to injury the retaining clips in the kit for the boots on the rack output rod were far too big for the job..
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Thanks Nick useful info
Based on the above then 175s on 5.5 with 16 mm offset should be ok as potential problems are on the outside,
Whats your view of inner clearance with 25 mm offset.
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Can you recall tyre size you used on the rears want to use 175s. Presume this was on your Vitesse.
As you say there are poor design but nice looking
I think the other 3 are ok , but in reality , how much longer will they last and crummy 2nd hand ones are still more expensive than todays alloys.
Will sell them on to recoup costs I think. Going rate seems to be £ 100 a pop when they come up .
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Ok , they need replacing then .
They were 6j , 25 mm offset with 165 tyres , and yes I know tyre is too narrow for wheel , was going to fit 175s providing they did not rub on inside. They were also mighty close to the outer lower wishbone fixing
5.5 j will improve this 5 would be better
What was the orig spec wheel offset ? 25mm seems big especialLy with 175 tyres
Intend to use 175/70 tyres. With 5.5 j in preference to 5
Wheel offsets available are 5.5j -16 mm or 25mm depending on wheel design or 5j - 20 mm
With 175 tyres at 25 mm offset I will lose 5 mm clearance inboard and outboard , with 16 mm offset will gain 4 mm inboard (good) but will lose 14 mm outboard with no tweak facility.
5j and 20 offset will keep the inner edge where it is but loose 10 mm outboard.
Looking back at past posts nobody qualifies tyre fitment success with wheel offset probably because they dont understand it or are aware or it.
Gary Flinn did say that 16mm D1 with 175/70 fitted but rubbed on bulkhead on lock , so I suppose you could say technicaly did not fit then there is also the issue of car to car variation , especially where body fit is concerned
I went through this when putting alloys on my tr6 , was asurred they fit no problem or yes I ve done that , was a pain , had go fit spacers at the front and double spacers at the rear and extra long studs.
YES PETE I WILL FIT M12 STUDS WHEN I CHANGE.
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Thanks Mjit for taking the time to reply . I am sure we are all greatly reassured.
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My Vitesse came with Cosmic mk2 alloys .. a real bonus as they were my in period favourite wheel , so lockdown job was to refurb them. Cleaning off paint at the moment , On the third one I decided to also clean up the centrebore....Horror of horrors cracked through in two places . Always thought the wall thickness between wheel nut counterbore and inner dia was thin anyway.
If you have Cosmic mk2 I advise checking them ..... I did not notice till cleaned up centre bore so look carefully, I also need to go back and check others.
Like its a new set of something else even if the others are ok , as these things are rarer than rocking horse poo especially the 6J ones I have , perhaps thats the way to go anyway if they are prone to cracking.
Gutted.
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Bought some a couple of years ago from Paddocks but suspect all come from same manufacturer , agree stud fixing is not good , araldite them in with std araldite.
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The guides were in good condition but the floor had cracked , so reinforced it all , solid as a rock , even got a good handbrake .
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NICK ...Took this photo when I refurbished mine , hope it helps.... Never thought I would be offering advice to you though
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Thanks Pete , yes I saw that too , but why quote a part number also.
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Anybody any experience of using club supplied std springs lately .Confused as latest 2020 brochure show 1 part number for herald , vit , gt6 and spitfire.... clearly nonsense.
Website shows different part number series and different numbers for the models but still shows gt6 as common to vitesse which is still not correct. So is it a vit spring , a gt6 spring or a mongrel , rough calcs show a gt6 spring based on wsm would sit 0.5 in lower approx. Rimmers and Paddocks list springs as different with oe part numbers. But read many instances of new supply springs from various sources screwing the ride height . Want to support club by preferably buying from them though but been biten by the one size fits all approach before.
Will use springs with club gaz shocks non adjustable pan already supplied so no debate on spax or any other make better please.
Cheers guys stay safe.
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Interesting that the tr5 is reviered for its rarity , but vitesse mk2 convertibles were produced in fewer numbers if I recall correctly.
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As I started this thread , I should clarify a few points that have arisen in the ongoing discussion.
As initially fitted with gear lever in middle of hole , there was a gap of approx 1 inch between cover and bulkhead without seal fitted.
I did not use club supplied seal as I had a full complement of fittings and club kit is expensive if you just need seal . I got seal from Paddocks.
Flange height on cover exceeded seal height so was trimmed down.
Following my initial findings I did discuss with Martyn in club shop , I prefer to not disclose the detail of that discussion.
However With mods as discussed the cover does a good job.
Interestingly I did not pick up the subtleties of the gt6 v vitesse part number differences, only a company like triumph would make them different in the first place anyway.
Onwards and upwards.
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I moved the hole rearwards by cutting out an offset rectangular shape and turning it round and aralditing in . I also had to reposition the mounting hole positions on the base .
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got this off TR Register some while back as I will need the same info when I start my rebuild . Not validated it though. Hope it helps
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Picked it up at Stoneleigh last year.
Pete have you been having typing lessons from Yoda ????
will discuss with Martyn tomorrow and as on option , all else failing you said I think I could fashion a new hole in the required position .
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Sprayed valences and turrets recently with Halfords satin / gloss black , seems not to be petrol resistant. Anybody else noticed or formed a view.
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Yes have measurement from front face to start of lever hole. Hard to measure on old one as its all a bit floppy as comparison . But clear that 20 mm is the difference.
Will talk it through with Martyn tomorrow.
Trying to remember when I bought it , should have the receipt somewhere.
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,Ok Initial investigation.
Engine mounts were in right place in front of turret. So alls ok there
Old cover fits ok see photo.
Laid out old and new on drive usind bricklines as datums.
Both tunnels on brickline with front mntg holes lined up , seems to put front of tunnels in line.
Oil cans on another brickline inline.
Lever hole dimension differ as indicated on photos.
Lever hole is not in the right position by my reckoning difference is circa 20 mm
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Should have explained that after I removed g/b with engine jacked . The car was too far back by a smidgen in garage and I could not shut door so I nudged car forward . Perhaps engine stayed put , effectively moving it backwards . I will commence investigation shortly.
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The engine mount position is interesting . I did replace them about a year ago , could have got it wrong. They could also have flexed backwards during the gearbox removal. Will check them tomorow and also offer up the original cardboard cover to see what the alignment is like.
Rotoflex Rear Hub Bearings
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Resurrected thread cos about to put longer m12 rear studs in roto rear hub and anticipating having to remove rear hub as I will not drill hole thro backplate
Just hoping to remove hub in situ.
Pete Lewis , never to be doubted says hub can be removed without puller. If Pete says so then thats it . However Pete can you advise how to do it..
Also is there the added problem of getting it back on as rotoflex distorts putting shaft out of alignment.