[Vitesse Fuel Tank Drain Plug Bracket]

Hi all

I'am considering leaving it out. The exploded diagram in the manual shows it fitting between the sponge doughnut and the boot floor which will mean having to use sealant between the bracket and floor as there could be a gap between the two surfaces.

I don't think it is to support the tank in any way as the tank is bolted solid.

There must be a reason for it as I can't see Triumph producing thousands of them without a deffinate need, just wish I new what that need was.

Mark

[Vitesse Fuel Tank Drain Plug Bracket]

Hi all

I am reffiting the fuel tank in the Vitesse, and have the sponge doughnut fitted over the drain plug, which I think acts to seal the hole in the boot floor. I also have a drain plug bracket. Long time since this was removed and can't remember how it fits or it's purpose.

The parts catalogue shows it fits under the sponge seal, but curious of what it does.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Mark

[Vitesse carpet]

Hi all

I was leaning towards the moulded carpet, but just looked at my modified tunnel cover and remembered as well as being a couple of inches longer  I have added a bulge to accommodate the overdrive solenoid now the gearbox is set further back. 

I Like Nicks idea and may take that route, but with loads still left to do and  I was looking for the easiest, quickest option, but either way there's going to be cutting and gluing involved.

Shame I threw the old carpet away about 12 years ago, would have been a useful template, starting point.

Mark

 

 

 

[Vitesse carpet]

HI all

I need to buy a new carpet set for my Vitesse restoration and was wondering which to go for moulded or stitched. I have moved the engine and gearbox back a couple of inches so not sure how much that will effect the fit of a moulded tunnel cover, I can add a strip where it meets the bulk head if a gap visable.

Can't remember if the original vitesse carpets were moulded, like the spit/gt6.

I've fitted stitched carpets to a herald and Spits in the past and they always looked a bit crude, but there is s big price difference between moulded and stitched carpets which has got me wavering.

What are your thoughts?

Mark

[Water Marks in New Saffron Spray Job]

Hi all

Had a helpful reply from the first paint purchased manufacturer, which is possibly relevant to all nitro cellulose / acrylic paints.

 

The edge of evaporated water droplets can be seen on the paint surface.

CAUSES When water drops on the paint surface and evaporates (especially on horizontal surfaces) the outline of the drops may still be seen.

This happens when the painted surface has been exposed to rain or water drops just after painting.

REMEDY Allow the finish to dry through, then:-Sand and polish.-If repeated polishing is not effective, sand the affected area and re-spray.

PREVENTION-Protect the car immediately after the painting and avoid contact with water before it has dried through.

 

I think all your replies have covered this, and I may have not allowed long enough between coats, put the primer on to heavy, exposed the paint to water before the paint has completely cured which I now think could run into months.

A rep had mentioned to me a while back to try and sand the surface and leave it to help the remaining solvent to evaporate completely.

I can still Mark the paint surface with my finger so definitely not cured.

Today I stripped the boot lid back to bare metal and I am going to start again, leaving longer intervals between each of the primer coats and finish coats and then leave alone out of the elements for s few weeks before sanding and polishing.

I think I know where I've been going wrong, thanks for all te advice.

Mark

[Water Marks in New Saffron Spray Job]

Hi all

Thanks for all the replies and advice so far, much appreciated.

The problem is that I didn't apply any polish to the fresh painted surface and the water marks appeared in the fresh untouched paint.

I only used T-cut to remove the etch marks once they appeared.

I then tried Mur to see if it would prevent the water marks but had no effect.

I'll try the G3 Finish when it arrives and see if it prevents the etching.

I am starting to wonder if it could be the water droplets magnifying the sun rays that is etching the surface, which makes me think the paint is still not cured?

Help!

Mark

[Water Marks in New Saffron Spray Job]

HI Tony

The marks first appeared on the un-polished panels and I used T-cut to remove them.  This is a test card pictured, easier to photograph than the actual panels. After lightly polishing away the marks off everything, and waiting a couple more days I again sprayed it with water along with the rest of the panels leaving it In the sun to dry resulting in the new etching where the droplets sat. This is the same for all the  panels painted so far. I have repeated polishing the marks away, exposing to water and sun several times since after initially painting them four to six weeks ago, and each time I have been left with the etch marks.

I did try some Mur polish on one half of the rear valence after t-cuting all the water marks off, thinking it may have created a barrier, but it made no difference when I sprayed the panel with water the whole valence was effected the same.

If I leave them out of direct sunlight to dry I still get the white marks on the paint but not so much etching.

I have ordered some G3 finish polish which I was going to try.

To be honest I am at the end of my tether, and running out of ideas.

Mark

[Water Marks in New Saffron Spray Job]

Hi all

I have been spraying my Vitesse using Saffron Nitro Acrylic paint. So far front, rear, side valence's as well as boot lid and head light surrounds. After several days I left the boot lid outside overnight and it rained. The droplets soon evaporated by the following hot day. This left white marks on the surface that I wiped away with a damp cloth. Looking closely there were outĺines of the water droplets etched in the surface paint film which needed T-cut to remove. I thought the paint was still drying out but after six weeks if I spray the painted items with either rain or tap water and leave in direct sunlight I am left with the same marks.

I spoke to the supplyers who were very helpful and mixed me some new paint just to rule it out. Still had the same problem.

I decided to buy some nitro cellulose from another supplier just to rule out the paint. Unfortunately I am still getting water etched marks on the paint, not as bad as the first lot but still there, if you catch the light just right.

The second lot of paint has only been on the metal test cards for a few days so it may be to early to subject it to water and sun.

Both paints are branded quality from reputable suppliers.

I am now wondering if it could be something I am doing wrong or contamination, but the paint goes on well with no marks.

Could this be a unique problem with the colour Saffron, as I have sprayed a few cars over the years and never encountered this problem before.

I have tried spraying different metal test cards with and without primer and a couple of different high gloss premium thinners and thin coats, but still having the same problem.

It could be that the paint just needs longer to fully dry and cure. I read somewhere that nitro paints can need up to 90 days to cure.

Any thoughts and advice appreciated.

[GT6 body mounts]

HI

From memory the aluminium spacers were only fitted between the underside of the  spring tunnel which is double skinned, and the top of the two rear chassis turrets. Probably due to the overhang of the rear of the tub on the small chassis triumphs.

Mark

[Vitesse Head Light Upgrade]

Hi all

Many thanks for all the replies, info and links. It's given me a good idea of the options available, and an upgrade I will definitely  be doing.

Mark

[Vitesse Head Light Upgrade]

Hi all

Slowly getting my  Vitesse back together and have restored the metal head light bowls and  fittings etc. and started to sort through a box of inner and outer head lights. Just started to think it would be a good time to upgrade these to a brighter set up,  but not sure which ones to go for or the best place to buy. I've Seen the generic replacements for the outer with the place for a side light which I don't want or need. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Mark

[Vitesse door chrome strip]

Thanks for the info, great help.

Mark

[Vitesse door chrome strip]

Hi all

I need to drill the holes in the doors for the clips that hold the chrome strip on. I re-skinned the doors years ago and am getting close to the end of the restoration, I have the holes in the front and rear wings to line the trim up, but can,t remember how many holes there are or their positions. I seem to remember seven clips per door. Has anyone got a photo of a door with the trim removed, to give me an idea?

Thanks

Mark

[Nitro Acrylic Car Paint]

Hi all

I need to buy some more paint for the Vitesse as I seem to have lost a couple of litres from the 5 litres of cellulose I bought years ago. I know there could be issues matching the existing shade so was going to buy another 5 litres. The place I originally bought the paint has long gone, so was looking at 1k paint and assumed this would be Nitro Cellulose. I was going to go with a Lechler Macrofan Mac 5  as this was offered by a couple of suppliers and from previous experience I rate Lechler products. Looking at the spec sheet it is a Nitro Acrylic paint, not Nitro cellulose. I am sure it is a good paint but wondered how it compares to cellulose, or is all solvent based paint now Acrylic. Any ideas?

Mark 

[Engine swap 2500 Vitesse Mk I]

7 hours ago, Ian Foster said:

Mark

I like the look of your air box and can see that you have tried to address supplying equal air feed to each carb. Triumph tried this with many different versions of tubes, holes and lumps on the filter casings, but never really nailed it, in my opinion. I am considering something similar on my Mk2 GT6 to replace K&Ns. Was it a custom fabrication job ?

Hi Ian

I modified a 2500s air box but when I make another for my mk2 gt6 also on HS6 carbs it will be easier to make it from mild steel or ally sheet, as in the end I changed and reshaped most of the original box to get it to fit after increasing the intake diameter etc.

[Engine swap 2500 Vitesse Mk I]

Thanks Roger, good luck with the engine.

Hi Steve

Still not on the road belive it or not, only owned it for twelve years, but determined this will be the year.

I will be going to SEM, so hope to see you there.

Mark

 

[Engine swap 2500 Vitesse Mk I]

I have fitted sprint carbs and 2500s inlet manifold to my 2 litre Vitesse. I opted to open up the 2.5 air filter box as I like the way the inlet is centralised feeding both carbs. I also increased the diameter of the intake pipe. The air box is now wider at the bottom tapering up towards the top enough to miss the inner wheel arch without mods,  stub stacks are fitted. The face section of the box is held on by a couple of bolts at the rear so is quick and easy to remove to get to the carbs for balancing etc. without having to remove the hole box.

Mark

[Zombie battery]

I bought a Ctech battery charger a couple of years ago and have recovered a couple of batteries that appeared dead and that I would have normally disposed of. My old start & charge, charger confirmed they were unchargeable, but the Ctech was able to bring them back to life, also gives you an indication of condition. Makes me wonder how many batteries I have premeturely retired in the past.  Batteries do wear out eventually and not a lot you can do. Biggest killer in my experience is not enough use, so now I periodically recharge as a matter of course.

Mark

[How serious is this ?]

I had a heater nut drop into the bell housing on the Vitesse last year whilst fitting a modified tunnel cover. Didn't see it go in the hole but just heard a metallic clink. First thought was it had bounced off the chassis or gearbox and onto the floor. After lots of searching, the nut couldn't be found. Then the horrible thought that there was a slim chance it could have dropped through the hole where the clutch lever arm pokes out. Having recently fitted a new gearbox the last thing I wanted was to take it out again still not certain if the nut had dropped in there. Borrowed an endoscope and mobile phone but the field of view was to narrow, like looking through a key hole and it couldn't be directed, it just wanted to follow the contour of the bell housing.  As a last ditch effort after poking around with a standard magnet on a stick, which was to bulky, I bought one of the extra strong magnets. It was so strong I had to insulate the sides as it just kept grabbing onto the flywheel. Just when I was thinking of giving up I heard a clang and slowly withdrew the magnet. It had found the nut which was now sandwiched  between the magnet and face of the flywheel. I was just able to grab the nut with long nose pliers and pulled it out on the end of the magnet. After posting this on SIDEWAYS forum, it seems this happens more that you would imaging. I have now fitted a rubber flap over the hole.

Mark

[Triumph Vitesse GT6 6-3-1 Manifold & System]

Thanks for that, and posting the photos, you have confirmed what I suspected,  and  given me the insentive to modify the 2.5 head ports to the flanges on the next manifold.  For this manifold i have tweaked the inside of the flanges, it's only a mm or two on a couple of ports to allow for the squared off primary as it inserts into the flange to align with the port.

Mark

 

[Triumph Vitesse GT6 6-3-1 Manifold & System]

Thanks for the replies. Something else i noticed. I had some exhaust flanges cut out of 10mm mild steel, and made sure that the drawing was as accurate as I could. The position of the stud hole is crucial as it positions the flange over the exhaust port. When offering up the flanges to different heads and different ports on the same head, there is a deffinate descrepecy in how it marries up to the port or not, so either my drawing was off or there is variations in the castings, core shift or location of the stud, not sure.  The closer I look the more different the the shape of the exhaust ports appear to me, when compared to each other.

As the engine I am using is just being used as a jig, I will just tweak the flanges to suit, so should then fit any straight six engine. When  I decide on the head I will be using on yhe 2.5 engine I will grind out the ports to  match the flanges on the next manifold.

Mark

[Triumph Vitesse GT6 6-3-1 Manifold & System]

Hi all

After making a 6-3-1 manifold and system for my Vitesse from hand bent lengths of tube, I am starting on another for my GT6 that will eventually get a 2.5 fitted. I originally intended to make three whilst I was in the swing of making the first a year or so ago but got sidetracked on other projects. The first system has equal length primaries and long secondaries joining up to a merge collector then a single back box. One of the difficulties, along with many others, is getting the round tube squared off, inserting into the flange in exactly the correct position at the correct angle. A couple of mm out at the head means 10+mm out at the end of the primary where it's intersecting with the other pipe. Trying to keep primary lengths the same, missing all the obstacles and getting them to thread between the chassis and sump is challenging.

After I finish the one for the Gt6 I was going to try a slightly larger pipe for the primary and was considering keeping it round and welding it to the outside of the flange instead of squaring it off and inserting it in the flange. 

I can't think why it should have any effect on flow.

What's your thoughts?

Below is the first system fitted to My Vitesse.

Mark

[Vitesse Mk2 Boot insert panel what material?]

Hi 

 

They are all made from mild steel painted silver. They often rust away behind the numberplate and it can be difficult to get a rot free straight panel.

 

Mark

[Classic Le Mans 2016]

Hi all

 

I've been wanting to go to the Le mans classic for years and next year I am determine to go, Cars still in lots of bits but plenty of time yet. I live in Eltham SE London so looking at the booking options was initially thinking of Dover Calais, but also considering Portsmouth Caen, whats your experiences thoughts?

 

Thanks  Mark

[model based threads again]

Hi all

 

Just rejoined the club after a few years off, but had previously been a member since 1989. First time I've signed up to the forum and surprised and disappointed not to see model specific threads as used on other forums I frequent. Some of the subjects apply to other models but I think triumphs enthusiasts are well aware of that and will browse accordingly. The layout just feels clunky and awkward in comparison. Great to be back in the TSSC though.

 

Mark