lincolnsix

I have been trying the fan at different temp settings as to when it comes on. I will make sure that it does not start until past the thermostat opening temp., the sensor is in the top hose. If I manage to drive home without the fan on ---- very rare as I live in Lincoln, traffic light nightmare! by the time I've parked in front of the garage door and opened it (with the engine running) on comes the fan. John.

Thanks for all your comments. The number plate is mounted below on the valance, the fan is in front of the rad. I know that popular opinion says it's best behind the rad, but in slow moving traffic is that going to make any difference? After Dave's comments I shall not bother with valances, the fan is turning the right way. The fan has a manual overide & is not wired through the ignition, when I switch the engine off the fan runs on for some time to cool the engine. John

GT6 mk3. My cooling system has had a recent uprated rad, 82c thermostat and temperature sender, and 13lb rad cap. The block has been flushed, all hoses o.k. the heater works fine. The problem is: on the open road the temp gauge stays 1/2 way on the dial, but when I'm around 30/35 mph the needle starts to creep up and the electric fan cuts in. I don't have side valances or a mechanical fan --- they were not with the car when I bought it, would fitting either or both of these cure this low speed issue, I have a feeling that I would be wasting my money. I was driving recently in below freezing conditions but it was just the same. Any opinions please, thanks John. p.s. I have a proper cowl in front of the rad. ,

Thanks for the info Pete, Buckeye Triumphs website shows photos as well John

It is a mk 3 with the yellow compensators on the carbs. The carbs have been rebuilt but I left the compensators alone. I don't have the side valences fitted only the one in front of the radiator. John

Thanks all for your replies, I don't have a mechanical fan to try, the air filters are standard, I have a glass fuel filter fitted before the standard fuel pump which is clean. I have approx 1/2 tank of BP Ultimate that's been in about 3 weeks. It looks like it was a fuel issue, thinking back, when it did fire up there was quite a strong petrol smell. John

After a 65/70 mph run I got stuck in a 20 minute jam into town, the electric fan was on all the time. The idle started dropping from it's usual 950 rpm until I had to use the throttle to keep it running. I was only one mile from home when the jam cleared and was running o.k. (30 mph limit) when suddenly the engine died, after 3 or 4 goes it started, revved freely and I got home. I switched off and then switched back on which it did first time back to 950 idle. -- the fan not running. I assume that the alternator is on the way out, but what worries me is what caused the engine to suddenly die? Any ideas? Thanks in advance, John

Thanks Wayne, That's really useful. John

Are Woodhead the same as Monroe? David Manners are selling GT6 rears at £24.00 each inc. delivery, 2 year warranty John

Any thoughts on Monroe dampers, Ace Parts have a pair of rears for the GT6 on ebay for £59.28 incl. delivery? I know that they are non-adjustable, but surely a better ride than the standard black ones, John

I have a Ignitor system which was on the car when I bought it, it ran fine but not knowing how old it was I felt more confident running on conventional points. May go back to electronic. John

While I'm on a points theme, any recommendation makes for a replacement set, tried a NOS Lucas set but the contacts won't fit parallel. Thanks John

Thanks everyone for their suggestions, after all that the dizzy was very slightly loose in the clamp. I must have moved it when I adjusted the points. John

GT6 Mk3 Delco Dizzy. After a 60/70 mph run during which I had one slight missfire, the next day I checked the points, they were just under 15thou so adjusted them. It now refuses to fire. I have tried a new condenser, a spare coil and new dizzy cap. There is 12v at the points, the timing has not slipped, and the rotor arm is a red Accuspark. Last year the car was professionally set up and has been a first time starter with 100% performance. I have even tried refitting the Ignitor system that was fitted by the P.O. It must be something simple, I've run out of ideas. Any help please, thanks John.

One of my door check straps has broken in the door pillar, is it best to replace the complete unit or just the pin/clip? Passed MOT today, testers comment 'spot on' Thanks John

After all that it's the horns, the r.h. one I have adjusted clockwise and it works. The l.h. adjuster is seized, have left it overnight soaked in WD40 ---- hope it doesn't shear off. Useful article in the Courier. Thank you all for your suggestions John

I have still not got anywhere, again I have run a separate wire from brown/yellow relay contact direct to horn(s) and a new earth to the horns, all the terminals are shiney clean. The relay still clonks away when you try the horn push --- and I 've tried a new relay. I cannot understand why the horns have suddenly stopped, the 12v live feed is oviously o.k. and the hazards are o.k. Have any of you electrical wizards any other ideas? Thanks very much, John

Every few months my horns stop working. The relay- original Lucas - clonks away but no horns. I have cleaned the relay contacts, tried a new wire from the relay contact to the horns also a new earth and changed the relay for a new Maplin one still no difference. The steering column has the proper wire at the u/j coupling and the wire from the rack to the block. I have a Mota Lita wheel with the horn push working properly, and am getting 12v from the purple wire to the relay contact. I have run out of ideas, thanks in advance for any help John

Thanks everybody for the replies, supplier has sent a second email: quote 'They actually work better in front of the rad'. He certainly won't be getting 5* feedback, admittingly I only paid £40.00 total with a fast delivery, but I shall not be using him again. I actually had a Kenlowe in front of the rad when I bought the car, but flushing the rad with a hose it overflowed all over the control unit resulting in the fan switching on nonstop and the end of the unit ---water & electrics don't mix! Luckily I do have a manual overide. The Kenlowes now gone back on and I'll now see how long this cheap & cheerful control unit lasts, which I've had to fix with tie wraps. So I now have a spare fan but only front mounted. Regards, Jiohn .

I have bought a Aeroline fan with thermostat from a supplier on ebay for my mk3 GT6 (standard rad and engine). The spec. stated it could be fitted either side of the rad and was suitable for the GT6 There is not enough clearance between the fan housing and the crankshaft nut, I particularly wanted it behind the rad not in front. I sent the supplier an email explaining the problem but his reply said 'That's correct it will fit either side'. It certainly will not! Has anybody had a similar problem? Thanks John