Dave the tram

Thanks Pete/Cookie, I think I'll order some yellow poly bushes etc than get the trolley jack ready - although the temperature in my garage here up north is plummeting daily!. Any reason why I can't use a big block of wood between the jack and the sump, with perhaps something between the wood and the sump that has a bit of give. I thought sumps were a bit delicate but am told this is ok. Quite interested in the notion of alloy on the n/s and poly on the offside. Will ponder that. Cheers Dave

The nearside u-bolt for the steering rack on my mk3 GT6 has sheared. Looks simple to replace, but the manual says may have to lift or jack engine slightly. I will indeed. The o/s one is clear to the side of sump, but the n/s one has the sump edge over it and needs to slide inwards where sump is. Can I get enough room by just taking weight of engine ( looks like a couple of inches needed to draw bolt out, unless I can turn it) or do I need to slacken engine mounts? Also, if changing one side at a time, can I do this without disturbing steering set-up? Different hardness bushes available, which I understand for suspension, but why for steering? Cheers Dave

Ok, that's useful to know. Hmm, what to spend the money on - door or engine. It has to be engine as the door is doing the job of a door still and can just hang there a bit longer. It's not as if it's going to infect the rest of the car! Cheers Dave

Any suggestions as to where best to get a door skin? I also see that rimmers do a door bottom repair section that might be also what I need. Cheers Dave

Before I do everything possible to get the head off and fit a new one, Does everyone agree that this is probably a valve issue, having fitted electronic ignition and got timing set up right, rebuilt carbs and set up right, new fuel pump and checked flow from tank. Starts and runs great, and did 500 mile round trip at the weekend ( yes 500!), which was remarkably uneventful, eating up the miles with little fuss despite not having full performance. However, it starts to run out of power above about 3,500 and if rev high on full throttle or pull hard (especially uphill) on full throttle, after a few seconds it starts to loose power, then coughs back through the carb, giving a foul smell of half burnt fuel. When we did the carbs it was the rear one that had soot marks in it, and it's the rear cylinders that show lower compression and a quick loss of compression when tested- not sure of the figures. Also, where best to go for a standard recondition unleaded head? - looked at Qulliers recently. Finally, looking to make it a bit quieter with some insulation ( for those 500 mile journeys) but it has a strange resonant drone that oscillates. When doing 50 to 80 and under power, the deep drone rises and falls steadily every 3 seconds, but seems to go when you lift off the power. Never got any worse and wondered if prop shaft imbalance. All this combines with general engine clatter, a sligh wine from the diff ( reconditioned) and the tweety in e clutch - so fitting the radio was a big of a waste of time really! Cheers Dave

John Different garage man - perhaps the one I should have gone to in the first place. I remember the first time I went to him we decided we needed a part, at which he said, I think I might have one of those in the back - 'what for 40 year old Triumph! ' Another time the comment was, ' oh well I can make one of those'. I reckon welding a nut onto the stud sounds a good no nonsense approach. I'll let you know how I get on. Dave

Doug Mine is a late mk 3 Gt6, non rotoflex that I need a passenger side door for. However, I have local bodywork expert here in Bamford who has done good work before and says it's easily repairable so might take that option. Especially as I now see that you can get not only the skin but a repair section for the door bottom (rimmers). Cheers Dave

Thanks Pete/everyone. This got a cascade of useful tips and experience. Yes, 2 studs wouldn't come out so will use the impact stud remover. I'd heard of the other methods including the rope trick but didn't fancy it in the end. I have a friendly, old school garage man I used to go to who never failed with difficult tasks so might ask if he has one-off these - he will probably have much experience of this I suspect. Cheers Dave

Been a member for a few years but been away. My Mk 3 still drives on daily, especially now zero road tax, but for one engine problem. It still coughs back through the rear carb occasionally if revved above 3k in higher gears or pulling uphill. Now has electronic ignition and had carbs rebuilt and all professionally set up, plus new fuel pump and checked fuel flow. Otherwise starts and runs well. Clearly suspect the old head, compression a bit down on rear cylinders and leaks away quickly. Would have gone for recon head but it won't come off. The guy that did the work ( a classic specialist near Chesterfield who races MGs) had the car suspended by the head overnight even. Any ideas, otherwise it's a full recon unit? While that might be a good idea as I think it's the original engine with no record of rebuild, I want to avoid that expense if possible. Cheers, Dave.

Been away for a while but my daily used mk3 is still plodding on here in Derbyshire. One day it could do with a respray but while the car is virtually rust free, the passenger door is disintegrating and looks beyond repair. Frame bottom is rotten, so a new skin might not be enough and corresponding line of rust on outside. Have advertised for second hand door, but is mk3 unique or well other model do? Otherwise any ideas for repair options? Dave