Dave the tram

I'd drifted into anothrer thread on gear lever linkages, so will switch back to the one I started. Progressing well. Got a new extension casting, got the bits off the old one ok. The square headed locking bolt that holds the selector wasn't impossibly tight as expected, but couldn't shift the pin from the central fork coupling. Then found that I could knock through the smaller pin that holds the cam on the other end in stead, (for the reversing light switch I think). Got new O rings from Canleys and various other individual bits, new nyloc nuts etc and put it all back ok, including the O seals. Found the errant metal cup washer for the top of the spring on the gear lever in a box of bits that came with the car 12 years ago! I think the damage to the reverse block plate might have been a combination of several things. The bolt that connects the bottom of the gear lever to the extension rod was the wrong way round (as shown on some of my photos before dismantling) so that a section of the bolt threads protruded adjacent to the block pin. Once various things got worn, especially the plastic dished washer (and the metal cup washer was missing) the lever would start to sit high and the threads rub the plate. Things might have been exacerbated by my holding the lever in reverse with all my might while reversing up my steep drive from the garage, until I started doing it the other way round and reversing in, trickier to aim to fit over the pit, but I can just let it roll. Time to put everything back. Just hope that box of left over bits isn't fuller when I've done. The dog pays great attention and I'm certain he remembers where everything goes - if only he could speak. Dave

Thanks Pete. I'll go for the end fork as the cam has a smaller pin and the hole doesn't go right through so can't push it out. I'll have work out a way to support the fork within the casing when tapping it out, pack it with bits of wood I think. Ta Dave

Pete, will do, but I think its ok and just destortion from the iphone wide angle lense. Can somebody tell me, am I right about just driving the pin out of this with a rod, none of my manuals cover this. Now that I understand that the cam on the end isnt always present, I realise why previous posts said that I dont need to remove the fork. Thus puzzled me at the time as something clearly has to be removed from one end or the other. Cheers Dave

Glad that all went ok, mine is a bit more complicated, so one last bit of guidance please before I lay into everything with the hammer to swap things over to the new extension casting. I'll call everything as per the manual, so in the photo, on the right is the 'coupling' held by a roll pin. This I'll leave alone as the hole for the pin only goes in one side, not right through, so can't drift it out with a rod. In the middle is the 'internal gear lever' or 'ball selector' held by a square headed locking bolt. This I will remove and have 1/4" drive socket that I can use upside down and put a big allen key in it. On the left is the 'coupling fork' held by a 'roll pin'. This I hope to remove and believe I can simply drive the pin out with rod that fits the hole. Might use a drill, upside down, although if the end is a bit rounded this might not be ideal. Will try a suitable sized round nail, sawn off to create a flat end. Does this sound like the right approach and should the same pin be ok to knock back in? Then the challenge of fitting the O rings!!!!!! Yes, I too want to get back on the road - thought february was the ideal time to do jobs but its T shirt and shorts again here in Derbyshire. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Pete, I think I understand that, and may wish I'd not started this job but don't think I have any option, other than try to remove the mangled reverse block plate and fit a new one, but I couldn't work out how to do that. I get the bit about the square headed bolt that holds the selector ball to the shaft, but still don't really understand what a dowel bolt is - sometimes called a roll pin in the manual, and how to remove and refit it. I have to remove the dowel bolt that holds the fork, and the square head bolt, in order to slide the shaft out forwards. Alternatively I could leave the fork attached to the rear of the shaft and instead remove the coupling from the front of the shaft, and slide the shaft out backwards. But the coupling seems to be held by a similar looking pin. I can't begin to fathom how to remove the dowel bolt/roll pin. I suppose If stuck I could buy all these required bits to build up the new extension casing. Cheers Dave

I am also reconditioning my GT6 mk3 extension and previously noted Pete's comment about leaving the O rings alone in my other thread. However, my main issue was that the reverse block plate had been destroyed and even the casing was worn into, so I've got hold of a perfect second hand extension casing from Mick Dolphin. This leaves me with no option but to remove and swap over the shaft and selector ball. I assume the locking bolt just unscrews, but any advice on how to remove and refit the roll pin/dowel bolt to remove the coupling fork would be useful. Also any tips on fitting the O rings succesfully. Cheers Dave

I can confirm the comment about some aftermarket bushes being worse than the old ones on the car. My old ones on the GT6 had a tiny bit of play between plastic bush and the shaft, but I drilled the tabs to get them out so they are now a bit wrecked, whereas the new ones are tight to the shaft, which will give in time, but loose in the tube so the bush tries to turn in the tube and will very quickly chew up the tabs, so I might end up looking again for better ones before I put everything back. Dave

Excellent - will be these. Thanks Dave

All sorted. Got the wiring all unplugged and also realise that the plug into the steering lock comes out with all the wiring attached and simply has a plastic turny bit that egages the lock - simple. Got new bushes for top and bottom that are tighter and seem to remove all play. A lot of sweary getting the old ones out and nearly caused some damage with metal rod and hammer to drift them out. Then did what I should have done first off - as well as drilling the rubber lugs off, applied some silicon lube spray and used a broom handle and wooden mallet. Popped straight out. Flexi couling all back together (twice as I forgot to put an earth strap on first time) Cheers Dave

Yes I have to say the damage is strange. Am looking to get whole replacement extension casting from Mick Dolphin, once we are sure its the same type, as I don't fancy removing the old plate with it all being so mangled and fitting a new one. He may also have the bushes etc I need. Once back together I'll have a good look at how everything lines up with the pin and block plate. Also interesting is the wear on the dished plastic washer. It's not caused by sharp edges on the metal bits (although I will carefully smooth these) but is chewed from below by the end of the spring - pity there isn't a metal washer between them. The job that started with a new steering rack, then led to rebuilding the whole column, then the gear links while I could get at them - is developing a life of its own. While the tunnel and parcel shelves are out, I'm improving insulation and sound proofing, rewiring the radio, refitting heater vents that had fallen off......not sure where this will end, probably as soon as the weather picks up and I miss driving it. Dave

So, opened it all up and: - the dished plastic washer on the bas of the lever is thin and damaged, but the big plastic bush looks ok. The rubber bush in the centre coupling was in bits giving about 5mm of play in this joint. I'm guessing a Rimmers repair kit will have all these bits. The hardened contact plate in the alloy casing is worn through - this is why I have to feel for the H. E.g. if changing down to 2nd, the lever will go too far left so that it can't be pushed down into second, you have to come back a bit and feel for it. Not sure if you can remove this plate and get a new one or need to get whole replacement extension casing. I'll aim to fix all this then road test it with the cover off and hopefully find nothing wrong with the gears or the spring and plunger on the selectors. It's a 3 rail box so if I do need to, do we think I can remedy the latter issue with the gearbox in the car? Cheers Dave

Thanks, that gives me something to ponder. I think I got the recon gearbox from T D Fitchetts and would be surprised if it was a mis- match as it all worked fine for several years, then the lever went completely floppy a few years ago. Re bushed it then and it was fine again, but that's when I noticed the wear on the gear lever extension cover where the block screw strikes it. I'll lift the tunnel and remote extension, take some photos and see if sloppy bushes is preventing full engagement. Yes I see that Rimmers does an extension cover for £60 and Mick Dolphin has a used one (part no. 306152). Once things are apart I might contact him to make sure its the right one and in good condition. I'm no expert on gearboxes, how do you tell the difference between single and three rail. Its a late mk 3 with O/D and I'm sure I will have bought the appropriate replacement for the car back then, although I got someone else to fit it. Cheers Dave

While refurbing steering column etc, should I bite the bullet and do the dreaded tunnel removal while the column, parcel shelf, heater pipes etc are out of the way. Several issues, but question is how likely am I to solve them. Probably improve the fit and insulation while I'm at it. 1. Jumps out of reverse unless i really hold lever in (tricky if needing to steer, backwards and uphill). Had a recon box about 10 years ago and more recently renewed bushes etc in linkage. I'm told its likely to be the spring and plunger that keeps it engaged. Can I get to these and renew with just the tunnel and extension off? If not I'll live with it for now. 2. Sloppy lever and goes beyond reverse block, so have to feel for 1st and 2nd. When i reconditioned the extension linkages some years ago, I replaced and adjusted the screw for the reverse block and got it working, but only just because it was the main extension alloy casing that was worn where the screw strikes it. Is it possible to get a replacement top, or is there another solution? 3. Reverse lights not working - probably be obvious once I get in there. Dave

Thanks, that makes sense. I can get the upper shaft past the lower bush then move it off centre to push it so will try that. Looks like I'll have to tackle the wiring issue and fully remove the column to work in it properly, and buy some new bullet connectors for any that are siezed and get damaged. I'm hoping that the wiring bundle for the key/steering lock has a single plug and socket arrangement. For the bush I'll try using a clamp and something to squeeze on the rubber tabs, but plan on new bushes anyway. Cheers Dave

I haven't removed any inner bushes yet, and looking at the drawing in my manual for 'later models' it looks as if there is a fitting midway along the upper shaft that engages with the steering lock, but unfortunately this drawing isn't labelled. The text is a bit unclear (to me anyway) but I think its saying I should push the locating tabs of the lower bush in, push the upper shaft down a bit cockeyed so that it wedges against the bush, and use it to drift the bush out. This would fit with there being something thicker partway down the upper shaft that won't clear the bush. Has anyone had one of these apart recently to conform? Cheers, Dave

Well, the renovation of the original flexi coupling has gone well, polybushes fit perfectly, as do the 4 new bolts from Mick Dolphin - and these are better as they are a hexagon head to take a spanner rather than the original crosshead. All tightened and wired up ready to fit. While the weather is bad and the car off the road, decided to carry on working my way up and renovate the column bushes as they seam a bit slack, and investigate the random horn sounding and non- cancelling indicators while I'm at it. Removed parcel shelf, impact clamp, outer column fixings etc and all coming apart well. I've removed the lower inner column fine through engine bay, but upper half won't slide completely out of the outer. Tried both directions but when about 2/3 out it hits something. I can't think that there should be anything fixed on the inner to stop it sliding out. I can feel the lower bush and thread it through that , but then its as if something on the inner hits this bush. Same if I try to pull it up the other way. Any ideas? I haven't currently removed all the wiring connectors as some won't come apart and loathed to damage the wiring, so the outer is sort of hanging with lots of slack in the wiring. I had thought I might complete the job with the outer like that. Cheers Dave

Joy - bought the handy impact driver as suggested from toolstation ( click and collect as I'd grown too impatient to await delivery). Nearly gave up as still getting nowhere, but then applied blowlamp, quickly clamped and tried again. Got 3 out but the last one wouldnt give and the cross head was spoiling. However, with 3 out I could take it apart and make room to get molegrips on the bolt, which did it. Thanks for all the advice, all made possibly by the power of the forum, the internet and other's experience. Hopefully back on the road tomorrow, but not if its snowy and salty! Cheers Dave

Well, the refurb of the old coupling is not going well. Although I got hold of nice poly bushes, and the bolts were wired and undamaged, I cant get them out. They are of course cross headed bolts, so its difficult to get decent leverage without spoiling the head. I couldn't work out why they are so tight as there is nothing to be tightened against, but on cutting away the old deformed rubber bushes I can see that they have been tightened hard to the ends of the threaded part. Even tried clamping a cross headed bit from a socket set, to hold it in place, then putting a spanner on it but no joy. This after soaking in penetrating oil. Only thing left is try heat, or the friendly local garage in case they have some sort of impact tool. So, can anyone recommend a supplier of a different UJ that will fit. I think most will supply the same FAM1718 one I bought, which has the bolt holes too close in. Failing that, its back to the idea of drilling out the holes a bit, or slightly smaller bolts. Ho - hum. Dave

Came up as out of stock on that link but just ordered same from James Paddock. £14.95 plus vat and postage http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/steering-column-joint-washer-set-polyurethane-2 Will start carefully didmantling and cleaning. Cheers Dave

Hi Pete, I probably didn't explain very well. I've undone the slip joint and everything is free to move and align correctly. The problem is that the clamp bolt goes through one hole in the UJ clamp, correctly through the grove in the splines but won't align with the other hole. The bolt is going through at an angle because the holes in the replacemnt UJ are about 2-3mm too close the splined bit. Thanks for advice on doing up the slip joint. I guess you tighten the 2 bolts, undo the locknut a bit then tighten the allen screw - manual says about 20 lb/ft, then the locknut. I guess its a bit tricky judging the torque working under there! I've found suppliers of the poly bushes to refurb the old coupling, so I aim to send UJ back and refurb the old one, unless someone can recommend a UJ that they have used and know it works. Cheers Dave

Thanks for everyone's help so far. I think I've answered my own question about aftermarket replacements, got the steering in bits and find that the replacement UJ will go on the splined shafts, but although the clamp bolts will go through one side and through the resessed grove in the splines, it won't line up with the other clamp hole. Ok off the car, but on measuring and comparing, the clamp holes are about 2mm nearer the shaft than on the old one. Tried gently hammering and screwing of the bolt but worried I'll wreck the threads. The UJ looks identical to Pete's photo above, and both the column splines and the pinion splines have a complete grove around them, rather than a flat, so you don't have to line things up other than with the grove- if that mskes sense. I could get slightly small bolts, or drill the UJ holes a bit but don't like to mess with the integrity of something so critical. I reckon its find a better UJ ( it doesnt look that good and its splines are poor) or get the Chris Wittor poly bushes as my old coupling is the wired bolt type. Yes its the rubber bushes that have squashed and degraded. See pics I have growing list of aftermarket parts that didnt fit and were designed wrong. Cheers Dave

Thanks very much Pete. I'll order the UJ, then perhaps look at taking the old one apart anyway and refurb it for interest/future use. Standard exhaust manifold so no worries there. Interestingly it has no earth bridge either on the old type joint nor did it have the usual earth wire on the rack - perhaps thats why the horn very occasional sounds when cornering!!!. I now have a new rack but I guess that is now earthed anyway as I have solid alloy mounts. I guess with the alloy mounts, a new UJ and it has a wood rimmed wheel, I might notice a bit more vibration to the hands, but ok presently. Cheers, Dave

Before I order a new Flexible coupling from Rimmers, has anyone used one of these replacement joints - the original being listed as N/A, or can anyone recommend the best option. Ive learnt that some aftermarket parts can be a bit dodgy. Also, I've looked at the link above on how to strip down existing one but I dont know where the free play develops or if it can be remedied other than with a replacement unit. I can see that all remaining play is in this joint, now that Ive fitted new rack and track rod ends. Cheers, Dave

Thanks both, will try that, but what is the 'damper shoe shimmed plate'? I would have thought that if I grease the rack but think its the inner ball joints that are tight, I would look to remove a shim from these looking at my Haynes manual. When the old rack assembly was off the car, these joints moved easily, but were very stiff on the new one so perhaps should have considered doing this before fitting. I just trusted that the new unit would be set up right. Also any guidance on sourcing replacement UJ for column base - I can see that remaining play of about 1/4 inch either way at steering wheel is from this universal joint. Track rod ends are new. Cheers Dave

I'm looking to fit the headlamp relays from the link provided by Doug. Might be a daft question but does one kit supply both the single headlamps or do I need 2 kits? Some posts mention fitting one. Cheers Dave