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Posts posted by Anglefire
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SYB1L is reported as now living on a Audi A3 - but the MOT ran out yesterday with no Tax information - hopefully the plate doesn't get lost
Condolences to the family.
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1 hour ago, cliff.b said:
Thanks Pete. I was wondering if that was the case but no experience to fall back on. Hopefully the new flanged nuts will stop it happening again 🤞
I used the flanged nuts when I rebuilt my engine - like them a lot - designed for the Metro MG Turbo I believe - or at least they used them! Got mine from Minispares from memory Classic Mini CAM4545 - Mini Spares Onlne Shop - I appreciate the link is of no use to you Cliff, but someone may be hunting for some later!
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Oil filter arrived today - only 1 of the 2 I ordered from the same place - second one arriving tomorrow. No problem really but not that efficient- but glad it came!
Fitted it this afternoon and after making the wiring modification a bit neater and more logical fired her up and once checked over went for a spin to get some potatoes from the nearest coop - the long way around obviously 🙄
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I've had my Spitfire 1500 for a about 7 years and has always had a pre-engaged starter (originally when I got it, it had a Dolly engine, hence starter).
It's always started well when hot or after a fairly short time standing. But if left a few weeks/months it can be a challenge - I've always put it down to no fuel in the carb bowls.
However, the last time I started it - which was a few weeks ago now, I remember it took ages to crank, then as soon as I released the key the running position, it started.
I decided to change the oil this morning, but first the battery was flat so had to charge it before starting the car to warm the oil - and then remembered the starting "problem". I did some digging and checked the wiring diagrams and decided that the ballast wire was always in circuit and never got shorted out on start.
The original solenoid is still in place, but the ignition start wire goes straight to the pre-engaged starter with the bias shorting link still in place (The solenoid is a junction for the main feed to the starter now.) - and as the solenoid doesn't pull in, does come into play.
I therefore added a link to the original solenoid (After testing it still works) and now have full battery volts to the coil on cranking and back to 7v ish when running.
Just got to check it when cold now.
Oil change was done, except I found the filter I had in stock was one that fitted the car originally, but not now I have an oil cooler and hence a sandwich plate.........
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I borrowed a friend of mines cement mixer. That was nearly 3 years ago.
I’ve been trying to return it for about 2 1/2 years - my car isn’t big enough to fit it in - it was brought in his trailer - which has since been taken off the road for repair.
I have offered to get it back to him as I can probably borrow a van from work - but always says he will collect it in a couple of weeks wheN he is back in brum.I will keep trying!
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When I put mine on a stand, I took off the plate and mounted through the holes left - if that makes sense - used some long bolts and washers.
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44 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Who would?
To be fair that's true!
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1 hour ago, PeteH said:
Insurance is a strange "calling". Eg; Wife has licence, but can only cope with auto`s, and likely will never drive it. However if I put her on my insurance I save 10%. My Grandaughter, 26 is a steady driver, but to put her on, almost doubles the premium!!.
Pete
I have the same issue - youngest (22 this coming week) has had a full license for over 3 years - add her to my insurance and its a fortune and won't do it. One day I will. Eldest is 25 this year and has had a licence less than a year and adding her to the wifes insurance was fairly trivial. I know who I would rather sit next to!
Actually neither are bad drivers - just the eldest lacks confidence and has yet to drive on her own yet. The Youngest will drive anywhere pretty much - perhaps not Birmingham by choice - but would if she had to!
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I've always bleed farthest from the master cylinder first - which would be NSR, OSR, NSF and OSF - rear is probably less important on a single circuit.
I use another person on the brake and get them to press the peddle strongly and quickly a couple of time, then not so quickly, but smoothly as I then lock off the nipple. Repeat for all other and repeat until a firm peddle is achieved and no more air comes out. On brand new brakes I have found they they can be a little spongy even when fully bleed because the rubber tends to pull the pads away from the disks until they have settled down.
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My Dad did mine - cost me a dash from the spitbits or whatever the site is - so not a lot. Didn't take long either - think he had stripped the old veneer off and applied the new in a day - longest bit was the varnishing because of the drying time between coats. He would probably do another one- but you need to be able to contact the dead. 🤣
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8 hours ago, Bordfunker said:
Thanks all!
That sounds like an overwhelming vote for Graphogen then.
I notice that it’s sold in 50g and 125g packs, would I be better off going with the larger for a full rebuild?
Thanks
Karl
You just know that a tube of 50g is not going to be enough and that you will be left with 80g if you buy the 125g pack
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8 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
I was breaking the speed limit on the M4 in the GT6 and, BANG! The oil light came on and the engine started to run a bit lumpy. Made it 2 miles back to dad's garage and the following day discovered an end cap had lost a bolt, twisted off and con rod and piston slammed into the crank. Bent con rod and shattered piston in the sump. Very lucky nothing else damaged, GT6's first re-bore and re-grind.
I'm getting mobile calls from London numbers starting 0203 every other day, I let it ring out and block it. My block list has 20+ of these numbers, I'm told 0203 numbers are easily spoofed and could be coming from anywhere.
Doug
Probably is a classic now, but a friend of mine was in the challenge for the BTRDA rally championship back in the 80's - running an Escort Mk1 Mexico with a 2ltr BDA in it - and was running out of top end on one rally - so had the bright idea of removing the rev limiter. First time he missed a gear it was ok. Second time, it hit about 9000rpm and suddenly stopped. Checked the oil and the dipstick came out with half the block. Found one con rod which had gone through 90' but never found the piston.
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9 hours ago, PeteH said:
Seriously, there is a text that keeps coming, about Test and Trace having logged me as having been in contact Etc,Etc,. I know its a scam, and gets deleted. 1) Test and Trace was scaled back and is no longer running withdrawn back in February. 2) The dates quoted are usually days I have never left the house!!.
How many are still getting sucked in by these parasites?.
Pete
Yes I get them too - as does the wife and my Mother - though she always checks with me or the wife before doing anything.
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23 minutes ago, PeteH said:
I have 2 Blue (and white) ones twice a day?, along with................................................... A shed load (well 4) "others". Occasionally the Pharmacy change them to yellow, just for the hell of it I think?.
P.S. anyone else keep getting the E-Mails offering performance enhancing medications?. My Spam box seems to be full of it.
Pete
I don't look - but I have had two texts that say they are from the NHS and that there is a letter that I need to read - with a helpful link. Given that I am waiting for one, I thought I'd have a look later as I was at work and very busy - forgot and got the second a few days later. Being a bit more awake I thought very odd. So checked the NHS app - nothing! So it is another scam - makes my blood boil - not for me, I very rarely click on that sort of link regardless, but for others that are not necessarily that untrusting and cynical.
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I’ve noticed the same issue with the radiator cap - I have one with a lift up relief valve and just touches the bonnet under some circumstances.
took ages to realised what the small dimple was caused by. -
Perhaps not totally for this forum, but this video has come out which I enjoyed.
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Ah, just found a button I can press to get the short cuts on the right
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I had a Vauxhall nova 1.3SR which had had a sport manifold fitted and No longer the exhaust air heater system. Occasionally it would stall even after a30 mile run up the motorway when coming to a junction because the mixture was so far out due to the cold damp air.
similar thing with my vw beetle that had a exhaust bypass to the carb - that always choked up so didn’t work. Going up hill sometimes would cause it to cutout on full power (all 34bhp) as the carb froze. -
24 minutes ago, Piglet said:
This is surely no better than K&N's (Worse?) given the air is coming in through a couple of slots from the engine bay and not through the corrugated pipes from in front of the radiator.
I still have to put some temperature loggers in mine to see what the real world effect is - I suspect when moving at a reasonable speed the temperature will be close to ambient.
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I was trying to work out what was different on the two graphs then I realised they were metric and colonial.
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8 hours ago, Wagger said:
My most recent 'Moderns' have had one Viscous fan and one electric. That way, minimal sapping of power until required and both operated on a hot day when in a motorway queue. It should be very easy to fit a viscous fan, BUT then not possible o pull the engine over to do tappets and timing. Grr! Can still put it in gear though.
My Land Rover discovery 3 had a viscous fan - but it could also be electronically controlled to speed up if demanded by things such as the AC compressor. I think it used a PWM signal to heat the viscous element to make it drive.
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It was changed because the UK includes NI but GB doesn't - its always officially quoted as GB & I.
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I used a DTI when I had the head off to find top dead. Repeated several times to try and avoid errors.
Fitting Longer Wheel Studs - Vitesse Mk2
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Blimey - bit of a drag from the past! I've been using Freelander studs and nuts since getting the alloys and no issues.