Mike T

Hi I was trying to cure a rattling window on the passenger side door of my GT6 and so bought some new rubber/felt profile to put in the channel that guides the window when it is lowered. When I got into the door I discovered the channel was corroded at the bottom and it has actually broken away from the bottom bracket. I have attached a picture of the channel with the bracket placed in position. I have not been able to source one, they are not available new and secondhand is proving difficult. Does anyone know if any other triumph models used the same channel. If not has anyone been able to modify one off another car to fit? Thanks for any help Mike

The washer comments explain why when I came to undo the head nuts they were not as tight as I was expecting. I suspect they were not clamping the head that tightly. There washers I have taken off were different sizes and thickness. I will follow the suggested advice on use of sealant. Mike

Hi Thanks for the answers. You are correct the engine has domed pistons. I checked the height both heads and they are exactly the same. On the basis that there appears to be little difference between the heads I will use the head that was on the engine as it was running fine other than leaking. With respect to using sealant plus the gasket could you provide a little more information. What sort of sealant would you suggest and would you use on both sides of the gasket? Mike

Hi I have just removed the head from my GT6 MkIII to try and cure a leaking head gasket. Whilst I have the head off I plan to get it converted to unleaded. Last year I picked up a spare head which I think is from a TR6. The current head is stamped 218225 and the spare head 516816. They both have the same valve size and other than the TR6 head having double valve springs they seem to be the same. My question is which head to do the work on, is there any advantage with the TR6 head over the GT6 head. I am not planning any change to the camshaft at this stage so I assume double valve springs don't offer any benefits. Any advice would be most welcome Mike

I spoke to Burlen and the guy I spoke with didn't know exactly what they were for but suggested that they were probably off another version of the CD 150 as the kits they make cover several models and so you always end up with surplus parts. Doesn't help a lot but I think I'm pretty confident they aren't from a CDSE. Mike

Thanks for the comments. As no-one is suggesting these are critical, must fit parts I'll ignore them Mike

Hi I have finished the refurb of the carbs (I think) however I have some parts left in the overhaul kit and in particular there are 2 small brass washer like parts. I don't think they are washers but I have no idea what they are and I could not see anything similar on the actual carburettors. They have a bevelled inner face on one side, flat on the other as if something seats in them. Any idea what they are/ what they do/ where they fit? Picture below Thanks Mike

Hi Thanks for the answers, it makes sense now why there is no tube present. Mike

Hi I am overhauling the carbs on my GT6 and I have a question regarding what looks like a missing part in the float chamber. Please see photo and next to main jet is a hole where there should be a short length of brass tube. This is missing on one of the carbs but present on the other. Pictures I have seen of other carbs suggest the tube should be there but I'm not sure what it's function is and hence what problems are caused by it not being there. The car was running OK when I took the carbs off. Can anyone tell me what the tube is for and should it be present on not. It looks like it is linked into the choke mechanism and it is missing on the carb which is not connected to the choke cable. Many thanks Mike

I recently made this change and I used a conversion kit from UREVCO. Have a look at their website urevco.com and you can see a video of a conversion on a spitfire rev counter. You use the existing rev counter casing and face and just replace the mechanical driving mechanism with an electronic one. It means you can keep the warning lights. It is a little bit fiddly to fit but it is working well for me. The guy who sells this unit is based in Italy but delivery is quick and he responded quickly to questions regarding installation. Mike

Thanks for the replies. What was puzzling me was that the GAZ shocks come with 4 cup washers. The 2 outer ones makes sense but the ones between the the rubber bushes don't. My top plates look like the photo above so I think I am right in not fitting the 2 middle cup washers that came with the shocks. Mike

Hi I'm just rebuilding the front suspension on a GT6 and I am replacing the front shocks with GAZ items. When mounting the shock into the top plate I have a rubber bush either side of the plate but the shock also has 2 cup washers between the two bushes. It doesn't seem right keeping these cup washers in place when I mount the unit into the top plate. It seems to site better without them. Can anyone advise if I should keep the cup washers or not. Thanks Mike

I have acquired a TR6 head with the larger exhaust valves. The head I currently have does not have hardened seats and I know I have low compression on 2 cylinders which appears to be head related rather than worn bores. I was planning to recondition the TR6 head with hardened inserts and then just swap them over. The other option was to take the current head off and recondition that. Mike

Hi I have a Mk3 GT6 which has a standard manifold and down pipe but then a twin silencer sports system. I have a 6-2-1 manifold I bought with the exhaust system but I am undecided whether to fit it. I believe the engine is currently standard though I might do some mild tweaks in the future. I would welcome thoughts on the merits of the 6-2-1 configuration over the standard manifold. I have read that it does not deliver anything except at the top end of the rev range but would be interested to hear from anyone who has fitted one At the moment I am leaning towards not changing the manifold but I would welcome advice. Thanks Mike

The Chris Witor page helped narrow it down. The head is stamped with 218225 and the casting number is 312388 so I probably have domed pistons. Still not totally sure if that means a TR6 head would fit though. Mike

Hi Thanks for all the comments. My engine number is KE10489HE, this is not the original engine from what I can tell as the chassis number is KE4390. From what has been said above it looks like I might have the head with the larger combustion chamber. Are there any markings on the head itself that would identify it? As I am relatively new to these engines am I correct that the GT6 and the TR5/6 have the same valve sizes? This would suggest that the limitation on power output on the GT6 engine is not the head design as this was capable of flowing enough to give the power outputs seen in the TR range - is this correct? Mike

Hi A quick question. Is there any difference between a TR6 head and a GT6 MkIII cylinder head. From what I can see reading the two manuals I can't see any but wanted to check if there was some difference that would prevent me fitting a TR6 head to my GT6 Thanks Mike

Hi An update on the studs issue. Decided to go with the Freelander M12 option. The job turned out to more extensive than first planned. At the front I had to separate the discs from the hub to get the studs in and as the discs were in a pretty poor state I decided to replace them and fit Mintex pads to try and improve the braking performance. I also discovered one of the wheel bearings was very noisy so replaced them as well. The stud replacement was pretty straightforward at the front. At the rear a previous owner had fitted longer studs already but as the car runs 185 section tyres he had used washers on the studs to act as spacers. Several of the studs were bent and I am pretty sure they would have failed before too many miles. I ended up going the split the hub route rather than drill the back plate. Not sure that was the best option but still the studs were replaced eventually. I now feel a lot happier driving the car and consider myself lucky that I picked up the problem soon after buying the car. As Pete mentioned above it is important to re torque the nuts after a short run, I found that this was needed. Thanks again for the guidance Mike

Hi I have a mk3 Gt6 with the manually adjusted rear brake shoes. I took the drums off this weekend to inspect the linings as I only recently bought the car. The way the shoes are mounted on each side is different - pictures of both are attached below. Can any one tell which one is correct. One has the two slots (one for the handbrake lever) at the top, the other has one slot at the top the other at the bottom. I've seen pictures of both when I google this. Thanks Mike

Hi I have just fitted a Rimmer sports exhaust to my GT6. It has the centre silencer and the twin rear silencers. The old system I took of was a twin rear silencer system but the only mountings were on the two rear silencers which hung off the rear valance. I am not happy having all the weight just supported from the back. I bought a mounting kit as well but it is not clear what I should be mounting off and to which part of the exhaust. In the kit were the two brackets in the photo below plus a lot of "U" clamps. Any suggestions? Mike

Thanks all for the advice and Darren for the link. I was only get 4 turns on the current wheel nuts which didn't feel right. The freelander solution looks fairly straightforward. Mike

Hi As an new owner of a GT6 I keep finding things I am not sure about. I took the wheels off today and was surprised that the wheel nuts came off after just a few turns. The wheels studs only project about 20mm from the hub, the car has minilite type wheels which probably use at least half of the stud so there is very little for the nut. Is this normal - the studs look new. I think I would feel more comfortable with longer studs. Any recommendations for minilite type wheels? Mike

Hi Clive Thanks for the confirmation Mike

I am just going through a list of issues with my newly acquired Mk3 GT6. One problem it has is several holes in the exhaust down pipe. The manifold is standard but from there is a single downpipe, a single intermediate pipe to a Y piece which then feed two silencers exiting the middle of the rear. I am hoping that it is a standard downpipe and i can just replace this. The outside diameter is 1.75" - does anyone know if this is standard or not? Thanks Mike

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try using a modified bolt as suggested Mike