[Probably timing!]

It’s JB Weld Marine Weld. I can’t say for sure how well it’s worked but here’s the link 

JB Weld JB8272 Marine Weld Waterproof 2 Part Epoxy Adhesives https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KKPFFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TT5UEbAEPS72M

[Probably timing!]

Pete, that is an extremely kind offer. I will keep tinkering until the lockdown is over but make sure that when it is, I get some of the best bacon I can find!

[Probably timing!]

I've checked the petrol tank hoses - they all seem ok. Switched between main and reserve tanks.

The first JB weld repair failed so I did a slightly more industrial job and left it 3 days to cure. I used the marine stuff and it's supposed to be petrol resistant (at least that's what it says on the packaging).

Also cleaned up the air valves and  casing, re-centred the main jets and set the mixture to the default 3 full turns from touching the air valve on the bridge. It won't fire at all now!  

Made sure the gaps are all correct on the spark plugs and there is a good blue spark.

Does anyone know of someone in the North Bucks area (Aylesbury / Buckingham) who could come and have a look - when it's deemed safe? Quite happy to pay and make tea  provide tea / cake / biscuits!  

[Probably timing!]

Update:

Took all fuel lines apart. I'd had a slight leak from the output of the AC pump for a while and had put some Loctite thread sealant around the brass nut. Maybe some had found its way into the Float / needle valve. Anyway - all completely cleaned up and re-assembled. Each carb needle valve was cleaned out, the "sticky" one has been replaced and the JB Weld repair seems to have worked (thanks for the suggestion). The holes in the jet were all cleaned out and blasted with air. Wouldn't start with / without choke or with / without easy-start / carb cleaner. Left it an hour, sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb and it started, ran for about 10 seconds then quit. Took the float chambers off again. Fuel primer is sending fuel to the chambers and if the engine is cranked over there is a good supply to the float chambers from the pump. Where is the next likely candidate for a blockage? The fuel going into the chambers looks clear of any debris or anything that might cause a blockage, but something downstream might be blocked. 

 

[Probably timing!]

Thanks - I’ll try a repair first. The needle valve on that carb was a bit “sticky.” I wonder if that’s the problem? The valve pin not moving freely when the float drops not filling that chamber. Gave it a good clean out and soaking but might as well order a new one.

re the timing photos, the points are set to 15 thou at the widest point - the photos just show the crankshaft position which relates to the distributor shaft position - probably not much use really!

can anyone recommend a good cleaning product to get rid of crud from inside fuel lines etc other than standard carb cleaner?

[Probably timing!]

From bad to worse!

Took the carbs off for another clean up. In the process of removing the float valve to clean it, I snapped off one of the lugs that locates the float fulcrum. If I wasn’t cursing before...

Is it fixable?

[Probably timing!]

I’ll have another look at the fuel feed tomorrow. 
 

The new points and condenser definitely helped though, before they went in, it wasn’t interested in starting at all!  (Other than a couple of times when it first went back together - and that was with a couple of misfires).

Ive checked the firing order and the carbs had a pretty good clean out - no harm in having another look though.

Thanks, will report back.

[Probably timing!]

After putting a few bits back together after a general engine bay clean up, my 2L Vitesse mk1 won’t start. Initially it had a new solenoid which fixed the cranking issue (thanks for the help on that).

Then it started for about 20 seconds and died, wouldn’t start again. It would turn over but wouldn’t fire. I had changed the fuel hose for Gates barricade during the clean up and the fuel feed seems fine - there were a couple of black “slugs” I cleaned out of the float chambers but fuel seems to be getting to the inlet manifold (which also was removed and was refitted with new gasket). The plugs are also getting wet with fuel.

i put a remax sports coil on and fitted new NGK BP5ES plugs (but undid that to make sure it wasn’t causing the problem and refitted the original BP6ES plugs). Today I fitted new condenser and points and it starts with the help of a squirt of “easy start” but won’t keep running for more than a few seconds.The points have been  set to 15 thousandths.

i think it’s the timing, I was very careful not to move the distributor within the clamp but the vernier dial might have been nudged.

Using the 3 and a bit turns (out from full in) to advance the ignition with the Vernier seems to have helped a bit. Before I unclamp the distributor to start the setup from scratch with a lightbulb etc, these photos show the current crank and distributor cam settings. The first 2 pictures correspond to each other (crankshaft and distributor shaft positions), as do the second 2.

The white indication mark was already there when I got the car.

Ive got half a tank of BP 98RON fuel which was in the tank over the winter (with stabiliser)

if anyone has some ideas - much appreciated as always!

[Vitesse 2L MK1 Starter solenoid / motor or something else?]

👍. Will make sure it’s a good earth . 

[Vitesse 2L MK1 Starter solenoid / motor or something else?]

Thanks Pete,

It's the square type solenoid without the button.

Bridging the terminals worked so I've ordered a new one and the battery was removed for a general clean up.

Much appreciated!

[Vitesse 2L MK1 Starter solenoid / motor or something else?]

This may be a stupid question! Electrics aren't my strong point...

Whilst re torquing the exhaust manifold, I dropped my wrench and there was a spark in the region of the starter motor - could have been from the starter motor itself or could have been the solenoid, I wasn't looking in the right place, just noticed it in my peripheral vision and yes - I forgot to disconnect the battery first!

Anyway - now the starter won't engage - there's no click from the solenoid and no signs of life other than the rest of the car power seems ok (lights etc.) Both of the 35A fuses in the main box by the battery are are ok and have been changed.

Further info - I swapped out the old coil for a sports coil. It looked like the coil had at one time been connected to a ballast circuit as there was a loose resistor connected to one side of the coil - but it wasn't connected to the loom so I omitted it when fitting the new coil. (Car started and ran fine before with the resistor just "dangling").

I was thinking of trying to "jump" the starter by connecting the terminal direct to the positive battery terminal with a jump lead to see if it turns with the ignition on. If it does, will I know I've fried the solenoid? Is this a bad idea?

Maybe there is something else I should change at the same time as the solenoid if that appears to be the problem?

 

Thanks in advance.

Note to self, disconnect battery when tightening anything.

[Re-fitting manifolds]

Brilliant! I’ll wait until my wife’s gone to get some toilet roll!

[Re-fitting manifolds]

Looks like I spoke too soon! The exhaust manifold HAS shrunk! Everything else fits perfectly but the manifold now doesn’t fit over the 2 brass studs at either end.

Im guessing one solution might be to rebore the holes at either end of the exhaust manifold??

It came off absolutely no problem about 6 weeks ago, although the engine had been run to loosen the studs a bit. Maybe that heat was enough to cause enough expansion to remove it easily?

Another option, warm manifold with heat gun before re-installation?

Time for a beer! 

[Re-fitting manifolds]

Thanks - all sorted and it sounds like a good idea for the die nut too👍

 

[Re-fitting manifolds]

Does anyone have any tips for re-fitting the inlet and exhaust manifolds for a 2L mk1 Vitesse?

To say that the fit between the flanges of the 2 manifolds at the engine block surface is a tight fit would be an understatement!

I’m wary of adopting the “hit it with a big hammer” approach - especially on the cast iron exhaust manifold which has a hairline crack already.

 

Thanks in advance for any tips / suggestions.

[Crack in exhaust manifold]

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll try a repair and source a replacement for the longer term.

 

[Crack in exhaust manifold]

Can anyone advise the best way of treating this crack in the exhaust manifold on a 2L mk1 Vitesse?

 

Is it likely to get worse? I’ve read on at least one forum that exhaust manifold cracks can coke up over time, partly solving the problem.

 

Thanks in advance 

 

 

 

[How long can I leave the coolant system empty?]

Thanks,

 

I was going to change the hoses anyway and will keep an eye on the water pump.👍

[How long can I leave the coolant system empty?]

I’ve drained the coolant system, including the block, of my Vitesse in order to have the manifolds coated.

The coolant system has been empty for about a month as the company carrying out the coating mucked it up - so they had to go back. Now it looks like it’s going to be quite a while until I finally get the parts back due to “lockdown.”

Does it matter if the coolant system (including engine block) is left empty?

The car is in a dehumidified garage where the temperature doesn’t get below 10C.

Thanks.