TRevver

Button up trousers - same thing, terrible invention

I’ll try the K Seal if the weep persists. I’m going to US with work in a while so I’ll see if I can get some Bars pellets, can you put them in beer to stop you peeing?

Thanks. Good recommendations. The loctite 574 is more likely to be operator error than product failure! Never used the stuff before.

Just changed the core plugs on 2L mk1 Vitesse. Did the job with loctite 574 to seal around the plugs but have a small weep from one of the plugs. Can't find Bars leak pellets anywhere - even on usual auction site they have to come from USA. Can anyone recommend the best product to plug the weep without damaging the rest of the system?

Thanks. It appears Canley sell a kit as well as the pipe by the metre. It's copper vs the original mild steel. Was ideally after steel to match the rest but not an issue. https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=petrol-pipe-kits&ptno=PPK12

Related question… Does anyone know a good supplier of steel fuel pipe? Pref one that also supplies the olive and brass fittings required for fuel pump connection.

That would also explain the fibre washer that goes on the top of the bolt for the newer style pump. Thanks for your help. Pump is back on and seems to be working ok. There are also some useful YouTube vids on rebuilding ac fuel pumps - partic this one

Just rebuilding the pump and noticed the kit had two rubber gaskets. One is for sealing the glass bowl to the casing. The only use of the other one I can think of is for under the diaphragm on the bottom half of the casing (it seems to fit) but that would seem to block the air holes which I suppose are there to allow air flow assisting the diaphragm to move. Anyone got any ideas?

The pump ordered from Paddocks arrived and doesn’t fit. Although the angle of the inlet can be adjusted by loosening the bolt on the top, the outlet only has a few possible positions governed by the screw holes clamping the two halves together - none of which are compatible with the original steel fuel pipe, which I really don’t want to have to change. So ironically the EASIEST fix looks like it will be replacing the valves in the original unit! The new one doesn’t look like a particularly good pump anyway, no prizes for guessing the country of origin.

Thanks Paul, the pump was definitely right way around as it’s marked “in” on the inlet side. ordering a new pump from paddocks and will tinker with the old one in due course.

Thanks. A lot of useful stuff there. I think I’m going to have to get a new pump as the car has been off the road for 3 years (long story) and I desperately want to get it running this summer and work away from home a lot. I’ll take the spring from the old pump and try to change the valves on the old pump later when time permits. Anyone recommend best place for 1600 / early 2L pump? Rimmers do one but looks like inlet and outlet are at 90 degrees instead of in line. (Part 206623 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005923

Thanks Pete, I've done the service using the kit, the only thing I couldn't change was the valves that are crimped in place.

I need to get a new fuel pump for my 2lMk1 Vitesse. It's an early one built at the end of 1966 (engine number HC1743E) with the olive and screw-in brass connection. It's the old AC glass pump style and I thought it worked (been serviced with new diaphragm etc) but ... no. Not providing any output, in fact, seems to be sucking in from the carburettor end?? Any ideas where to get a replacement one that fits? Seen plenty for '67 onwards engines but not sure about pre '67 and don't really want to have to change fuel lines if can be avoided (although I have done the hoses). Cheers.

Don’t know if anyone is interested in all the back issues of courier magazines in hard copy going back to 2010 but I’m about to recycle them. Or free to a good home but they would need to be collected from Winslow, Bucks

Maybe it’s down to batch run of the bell housing? Mine has a seam right next to the top hole for the starter motor-there’s enough room for the original bolt, but a nyloc nut to fit on the captive bolt is right up against the seem so you can’t get a socket on it and only about a 1/16th of a turn with a spanner. It’s fine if I tip the starter upside down as the free bolt can go through the same hole to be held by a spanner whilst doing the nut up from the engine side.