Herald948
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Posts posted by Herald948
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On 7/26/2017 at 4:30 PM, Valherald said:
Hi all
I have just gone to replace the thermostat on the 1147 1965 Herald, firstly I found there isn't one fitted, so, fitted one to very quickly find out why there wasn't one fitted!!
I now understand that the early 1200's didn't have a temperature gauge installed so this one has had a modified thermostat housing installed with a temp sender unit in the top, trouble is, the gauge intrudes so much that the housing wont go back on with a thermostat in there!
Anybody had a similar issue? I'm wondering if there is anywhere I can get a shorter gauge to fit or alternatively, if I install a standard housing, would I have to install a later water pump housing to get a gauge on or is there any other way?
I missed this first time around. This is a problem we in the US have long faced, since temperature gauges were always installed for cars destined for the US market. I know you're set now, but there was / is an alternative to swapping out water pump housings.
Back in the day, the proper style of thermostat was readily available; nowadays I believe the only real options are NOS or good used ones. What is needed is literally a thermostat with a flat top. Typically these were of the bellows type, and it's what was originally installed, as opposed to the typical modern thermostat with its extra height. Here's an image I grabbed of the 'net of a typical Smiths brand thermostat.
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Does it have the 10 cut spline input shaft or the 18tooth rolled spline input shaft
pete
Also, what size is the output flange? You'll need to ensure that the front flange on your propeller shaft matches the output flange, which I suspect it won't (unless you're replacing another all-synchro box).
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Nice looking car! Is that a "Malta" badge on the bonnet?
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Standard USA chassis has "boot riggers" just like the Herald and Vitesse.
This is correct, but only from the 1974 model year on. I do not know for sure, but I suspect that the rear chassis extensions were added as much for increased rear bumper support as for any other reason. At the time, bumpers on US cars had to be able to withstand an impact of, as I recall, up to 2.5 mph without damage to any safety-related components (notably lighting). Beyond that, I don't believe that the chassis extensions improved rear crashworthiness significantly if at all.
Meanwhile, with or without extensions, that 1973 Spitfire body (at least for its time) did a remarkably good job of absorbing rear impacts without intrusion into the passenger compartment. I happen to know this partly from personal experience of friends who were rear-ended (at a stop light) at a pretty good speed -- perhaps 20-30 mph? -- by a full-size Pontiac. It was a bit of an offset impact, focused more on the right side. Neither of my friends was injured. Notably, the car would still have rolled and driven were it not for the fact that the RH lower rear wheel arch metal had tried to become part of the tire tread! Another friend and I bought the wreck from the insurance company for parts. We were actually able to move that sheet metal a bit and drive the car around the yard...until an axle u-joint snapped. We were convinced that the u-joint had been damaged somehow in the impact. We also later discovered that, despite this particular car predating those chassis extensions, the rear of the chassis was a fair bit out-of-square, an obvious consequence of the impact and how the forces spread.
Oh, and I neglected to mention that both doors still opened and closed!
Moral: As you noted, it's a bit of a moot point with a car as low as a Spitfire, but those cars did remarkably well for their time in terms of occupant protection via absorbing the collision forces before they reach the passenger compartment.
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Nowadays, tire manufacturers and other safety experts seem to agree that tires much over six years old should be replaced. So there's one more thing to add to the list!
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Have you checked u-joints, which tend to give more the kind of sound you describe? Could be that the old whiny diff. masked that sound?
And even less likely, but possible, is a front wheel bearing. I had similar noises (not so much the "thudding" part, but yes to the part about turning changing or temporarily quieting or exaggerating the noise) on a Herald 1200 that turned out to be bad LF wheel bearings and, ultimately a bad hub as well (somehow worn to the point where the bearing races would not stay put).
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Too bad the seller won't post to the United States; I'd be "all over" this!
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Dave,
One end of the pin has a taper, although I don't know if the taper then continues slightly or the rest of the pin is straight.
I've always put them in taper first and removed them by pressing on the taper so I never really found out if they go in either way.
Although you have probably tried from both ends this might be an idea.
One thing I can recommend is not to change them on a gravel driveway, but I still don't learn.
Regards, Mick
Doing that job on a plush lawn is even dumber (never mind how I know that)!
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Hello Herald948.
I mentioned your point on my first reply #2.
I would check the rear wheel cylinders to ensure all is bone dry there and worth pulling the rubber caps back to check it looks okay. Whilst there ensure the shoes are free to move about and that they are adjusted properly - quite often the fault can be this.
Needless to say it is worth mentioning again because excessive brake pedal travel can occur from out of adjustment shoes.
Regards.
Richard.
Indeed you did Richard; my apologies! It's just that I read so many plausible yet (IMO) less likely subsequent explanations and fixes for same (no offense to anyone; they were all logical possibilities!). I suspect you and I might be alike in trying first to address the most logical and/or least expensive fixes!
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Going back to the original question, I'm a bit surprised to be the first to suggest rear brake adjustment might be in order. It's easy and cheap, and need for adjustment can cause the very symptoms described. If that doesn't work (all of 10 minutes' work), then by all means start checking the rest of the system for leaks and/or other faults.
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809405 is the Stanpart number, and it was the same part throughout GT6 production.
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The lack of space due to the chassis was always the problem with any automatic option or the use of the stronger Vanguard/TR gearbox when the 2 litre engine was fitted. Lack of product planning, who knows. An automatic Herald should have been in the Sales peoples thoughts as there was a Standard 8/10 Easydrive. Maybe the Sales figures had been to low on the Standard?
Dave
Ah yes, the immortal (and apparently somewhat troublesome) "Standrive" -- a very cool idea that apparently wasn't quite completely developed. Interestingly, it was mentioned in some US-oriented manuals for the Triumph 10 as "Triumatic," but I've never seen nor heard of a Triumph 10 in North America with that gearbox. Of course, the gearbox was the same, as all the 'trickery' was in clutch actuation, so physical space was not a factor as it was with the narrow main rail chassis spacing on the Herald-based cars. Even the TR3 lost a significant amount of footroom when attempts were made to stuff in the BW35 box for possible US sales!
Cool thing was that the Standrive / Triumatic could be paired with a Laycock overdrive, giving one -- in a sense -- a seven-speed automatic gearbox!
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In answer to Herald 948's query, no I did not ditch the Konis; I have kept hold of them for the very reason you suggest - they can be reconditioned. Anyone any idea of cost?
Tom
I did look into this a couple years ago. Typical price from Koni or one of their "approved rebuilders" usually is right around the price of a new Koni. Of course, if a new Koni is no longer available, or if the currently available Koni isn't quite like the original (which seems to be the case with the front shocks), then that rebuild cost doesn't seem so bad! Besides, if you only have to go through this every 20-30 years....
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I have just changed the dampers on the rear of my MkII Vitesse and have gone with GAZ. They have made a vast improvement. The previous dampers were Konis but saying that, they had been on the car for a very long time and were well past their best, so not a fair comparison....
Tom
Tom, I hope you didn't "bin" those Konis. The ones for the Roto-flex suspension are NLA...but Koni will still rebuild them. I've had Konis on various Spitfires and GT6+ models (not to mention at least one Volvo 144) and have LOVED them!
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I understand this relative to the axle shaft, but why would it be different for the prop-shaft? I can't figure that one out!?
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Thanks for that. The ones I have are 7 x 1.25, so clearly for a Standard 8 or 10, not a Herald.
Good luck finding correct 8" x 1.25" shoes. I don't believe anyone currently supplies them. You probably could have a good "core" set relined. Otherwise, you're often at the mercy of an eBay seller who might want...uh...significant money for NOS shoes. Of course, even that assumes that there is a current listing for these on eBay, and I don't see one at the moment.
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All Herald front drum brake shoes were 8" x 1.25". This might also apply to some of the latest Standard 10 Companions and 7cwt vans and pickups; otherwise, the Standard 8 and 10 used 7" x 1.25" shoes in a a setup that otherwise looks very much like that of the Herald (and I'm reasonably sure that -- using backing plates and all -- an older Standard 8 or 10 could have "upgraded" front brakes with little more than wrench work and some bleeding of the hydraulic lines)!
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I'm with Pete on this. If it were my car, I'd be putting new seal kits in both master and slave cylinders (unless, of course, you encounter a damaged bore in either cylinder, in which case it's time for new cylinder)!
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It would not surprise me to find that your oil pressure light sender switch is failing (not at all uncommon, especially after 40-50 years). It certainly doesn't hurt to get a good filter with anti-drainback, but what you describe sounds more like a sender problem. Perhaps you can borrow a gauge (or buy a cheap one to fit at least temporarily) to get a better idea of what is actually happening on a "cold" start?
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Image 1 is correct. But how did you end up with a Mk3 that has manually adjusted brakes?
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Save for the cold chisels and flat-blade screwdrivers or other hard metal pry bars (a virtual guarantee that you'll damage or ruin the head, block or both), all of the above should help. I don't recall ever having to remove all the studs, but I have resorted to dead-blow (rubber faced) hammers or heavy sledge hammers on blocks of hard wood against the head. And then there's the ever-popular rope trick: stuff some rope down the spark plug holes of a couple of cylinders, then use the starter to turn the engine over. The rope can't really hurt anything, and it can only compress so much, after which it just might help push the head up enough to break the bonds!
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Hey all. Breaking news. I emailed First Line who make Borg and Beck clutches and they replied;
Hi Tim , Unfortunately we only do the six spring clutch kit at the moment HK9704, but later this year due to demand we will have the 9 spring one available.
This was sent by Peter Hughes, Senior Clutch Product Engineer
Tel. +44 1869 329 716
First Line Ltd, Chalker Way, Banbury, Oxfordshire, OX16 4XD, UK
So, good news for anyone who might wish to access one of these as a Christmas present!
Well, I guess THAT explains why so many vendors were "passing off" the six spring clutch as suitable for early Herald 1200 and Spitfire (about which I have my doubts): it was the only one available!
Glad to hear that there will soon be a nine spring version available again! It's getting so hard to find good deals on eBay on NOS bits.
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Over the years (and I've been around these cars forever), I've always "known" that 6-spring clutches were 803 and 948cc, and 9-spring clutches were earlier Herald 1200 and Spitfire with the 1147cc! I'd worry the moment I bolted a 6-spring clutch into a Herald 1200, let alone a 12/50 or Spitfire 4!
PDWA Valves
in Braking System
Posted
As originally fitted at least on the North American cars with dual braking circuits, the PDWA and oil pressure warning light interconnection was an easy and cheap way to provide a bulb check on startup. The ultimate value of that might be debatable, but at least it didn't involve 30 extra feet of wire and three fuses all overseen by a CPU and requiring the services of an EE to diagnose.