[1970 mk3 spitfire stop light L847]

Colin caught me: I should have said "neither the L672 nor L847 was fitted to anything except the Spitfire or GT6"!

[1970 mk3 spitfire stop light L847]

I'm reasonably sure that neither the L672 nor L847 was fitted to anything except the Spitfire. That said....

 

The overall logic behind the change has long baffled me. It might have made some sense for the North American market, where government regulations might have rendered the L672 lens obsolete due to either lack of "light output" or changes in reflective specifications that resulted in North American 1970 cars not only getting the L847 with increased light area but also the separate and reasonably sizeable red reflectors.

 

Other things that puzzled me about the change: 1. Some late Mk3s in other markets got that L847 lens but didn't get any supplementary reflectors. I found that strange. 2. Lucas seemed not to continue to produce replacement L847 lenses for very long, although they continued seemingly forever producing the L672 lens! I would estimate that it's now been well over 35 years since one could buy a new L847 lens from pretty much any typical supplier of Triumph parts (not counting NOS specialists and such).

[Help with identifying this badge bar]

Here's a picture of what looks to be the same or a very similar bar mounted on the front of a GT6 Mk3:

 

[Replacing front shocker top bushes]

Glad its sorted 

 

         when chasing noises its always best to rent a crowd  and let them listen while you drive ,

 

noises do often come from the opposite end to what you think     I'll re phrase that !!!!

 

Pete

I might have said this before (if not here, on some other forum), but I agree with Pete. A number of years ago, I was convinced that there was something very amiss in the rear end of my '62 Herald 1200...until I discovered the failing left FRONT wheel bearing (and race and, ultimately, hub)!

[still confused]

Gearbox serial number would help immensely. It sounds to me as if you've gotten a later all-synchro gearbox as a replacement?

[Clutch stuck or not .......]

 

1: I have looked at clutch supplies and the outer covers available all have 5 spring wholes whereas the one fitted has 9, s that correct? see pic attached

2: In the mechanical manual, a return mechanism and spring assembly is shown for this type of clutch. Although non of the pics I have looked at show the return spring, the housing does have a hole just next to the slave aperture, should there be a return spring fitting there?

From what I've seen over the years, the 6 (not 5-spring clutch was fitted to the 948cc Herald engines, and the 9-spring cover was fitted to 1147cc Heralds until superseded by the diaphragm-style clutch. I don't know what sort of stuff is typically offered these days, but that's how it used to be! What you pictured here IS correct for your car.

 

As to the "return mechanism and spring assembly," again, that's something that was present until partway through the 948cc series gearboxes but was not used on the later Heralds.

[Correct colour interior for spitfire mk3]

It's up to you. Originally, those items were black regardless, but if you like that look and aren't worried about losing Concours points in a "stock" class....

[greasing rear spring]

Springs are in general left dry, grease attracts road dirt and wears the pads and a leafs

 

they are not greased from new and theres no service requirement

Perhaps that is true with the swing springs? I don't know. But "painting the spring with used motor or gear oil" WAS a regular maintenance item on the earlier cars with the fixed spring.

[plate on bulkhead]

Notably, that particular body number is from a Herald 1200 saloon.

[13/60 getting hot]

First thing I'd do is a thorough flush of the radiator AND engine block. It's cheap, doesn't take long, and chances are it was due to be done regardless.

[New Leaf spring and Differential on car replacement]

Thanks to all for the help answer to Clive no the diff seems ok but it is leaking oil from the pinion and both drive shafts I am told you need to remove the diff from the car and you need a hub puller to get the seals out of the shafts so I thought I might as well replace the whole unit while I am at it. Do you need a puller or should I just replace the seals.

Another question what does Spring lifter do and and do I need one to do the job or can I manage without it

Regard

Andrew

is the diff noisy or "clunky" or otherwise in poor mechanical condition? If the only problem you have is leaking oil, the first thing to do is to clean off the area around the breather on the top of the diff (on the RH "ear"). That tends to get blocked with road grime; the result is a buildup of pressure that forces oil out wherever it can go. I can't guarantee cleaning that area will stop all leaks, but it's a great and cheap first step.

 

You should have no "need" for a spring lifter. What you do need is at least the appropriate pages from the Factory Workshop Manual so you can do everything needed in the proper order, etc., etc.!

[Herald Indicators/side lights - How should they work?]

Tanks guys

Its the smaller flat lens Juppy (pic attached) single bulb I think?

 

Thanks Casper, having some experience I had suspected earthing so I appreciate the confirmation and explanation, I'm guessing its a single bulb double filament arrangement?

Correct; dual filament bulb (1157, at least in the US).

[Rev Drop with Lights on]

I'm thinking it couldn't hurt to make sure all connections are clean and corrosion-free, especially battery and other main cable connections (solenoid, starter and, of course, ground end of said cables).

[Spit MK3 emission control valve problem]

This brings back (mostly) fond memories of my first '69 Mk3 Spitfire, circa 1971. I had the same problem with the Smiths valve popping out of the intake manifold. I asked about this at my local gas station (they hated "foreign" cars or at least pretended to, but they were very good mechanics). One of them fixed the problem quickly and permanently by carefully "peening" a couple spots on the inside edge of the hole in the manifold and then pushing the valve back in securely. It never moved again, and this then-18-year-old novice mechanic learned a new term and technique!

[Chassis out rigger replacement & tight, lumpy steering]

yes there's a scheme to add a plate which overlaps the  top main rail so the top of the outrigger can be welded  it can be welded from under ,  if only  welded on down bottom and sides it will crack the main rail. later on.

Hopefully this link will work; it's a factory service bulletin. http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/chassis.htm

[Herald Gearbox tie-bar?]

There really isnt' much to "adjust"...and you most likely can do without it completely!

[unknown problem with triumph 2000]

Carburetor diaphragm(s)?

[Fuel tank capacity (Herald 13/60)]

One other thing to keep in mind is the fact that there are "stabilised" and "non-stabilised" six-screw senders (apparently neither is available new).

[Herald Fuse Boxes .........again ?]

On the off chance that these will help, here is a link to wiring diagrams for the US-spec. Herald 948 and Spitfire 4 Mk2, both of which had fuse boxes.

 

http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/wiring.htm

[R.I.P Herald Chassis!]

 

"Externally this herald looked in very good condition....P.S we dont usally scrap anything Triumph hence our full workshop of Triumph spares.But i think this one has seen its last days "

[can a standard vitesse 6 box be used on a mk1 2 litre]

Also perhaps noteworthy is the fact that the 1600 box had a 2.93:1 1st gear and reverse gear, while the 2L box had a 2.65:1 1st gear and 3.10:1 reverse.