oliproctor

Thank you! I'll have a go today!

Good morning again all, All new gaskets and sealant are changed and airtight (checked using the EasyStart spray test and no difference in revs occurred). I was surprised to find out the spluttering problem now began as soon as the car started compared to the 15 min delay before I had changed the gasket, I guess this means now there are no air leaks and all that needs to be done is to readjust the needles to get the mixture correct as above? I have never done this before and wondered how to do so please? A step by step guide would be much appreciated please! Thanks Oli

Hello all, Looking for an air filter box to fit my Mk2 if anyone has one please? See pic below Thanks

Sealant and new gaskets bought and arriving Monday, hopefully they will solve this annoying problem! I'll keep you all posted. New gaskets look a little thinner compared to the old ones i took off this morning, hopefully that wont cause too much of a problem? I've bought 4 so two spares, could i stack them to create the same width as the old? Thanks

Is there a sealant you would recommend? And what about new gaskets? Thanks Oli

ANyone have one of these spare or willing to sell? Thanks Oli

Yes I've had a read, luckily my threads and nuts are all okay. But is what I said the correct thing to do as below? Thanks

So would you suggest taking the carbs off with the heatshields, clean up the gasket areas and make sure each surface is smooth, replace gaskets???, add gasket sealant and new gaskets and then do up the bolts nice and tight to see if that makes a difference? Is it worth changing the fuel line that runs around the carbs whilst I'm at it? Thanks Oli

Hi Pete, Video attached shows the Easy Start spray noticeably increasing revs under idle when sprayed onto the heat shield/manifold gasket. Maybe not completely noticeable from the video but is this the source of all my problems? If so, why is it not spluttering straight away and only after 15-20 mins? Thanks Oli IMG_2214.TRIM.MOV

By going 'back to standard' do you mean the pancake filters within an air filter box? I didn't think that was standard on a Mk2? Thanks Oli

Hi Pete and Clive, I'm pretty new to ignition systems so you'll have to bare with me! Distributor was changed last year by the last owner and looks clean and all in working order inside (see first pics) and seems to be a Delco dizzy like you said. All connections seem secure and rotor arm seems to be contacting the contacts nicely as they're all marked, does this answer your comment below? (see pic 2). If so where is the brush you mention? With regard to this sentence above, my car is positively earthed at the battery (not negatively as you said) with the coil positive going to dizzy and negative going to the ignition feed back through the bulkhead, is this correct? (see pics 3 and 4) All terminals are clean with no green corrosion. What is the best way to make sure the condenser is working too, just double checking to make sure its the silver small cylinder (like a AA battery) in the dizzy (see first pic). Thanks and sorry for asking so many questions, very keen to learn! Oli

Thanks for this, I'll have a look today. I'm not sure of the make of the distributor and they are pancake air filters not standard. Why would that make a difference? Thanks Oli

Hello all, I need your help please! My 1965 Mk2 Spitfire has begun spluttering and backfiring under acceleration after around 15-20 mins of driving to the point where it has cut out once or twice. It did this last summer before it was taken off the road for winter for some TLC and bodywork restoration however the problem was foxed after I noticed the vacuum advance tube had split in the middle after adding heat-shields to the carbs as I thought I may have been due to overheating and vapour lock. After turning the advance all the way in it ran like a dream and was smooth and a delight, something it still does until it reaches 20 mins of running. I have checked the spark plugs and cleaned them, all were in good condition bar number 3 which had carbon fouled (maybe due to the timing being out??), drained and cleaned the fuel tank and replaced with fresh petrol, new fuel filter and tubes and I even added lead additive to see if that may help but to no avail. The only resulting possible problems I can see now are the fuel vapourising after 20 mins of running and the timing being out. My brother and I thought to maybe add an electric fuel pump to the boot of the car so heat radiation from the engine won't be an issue anymore and keep the original as a 'dummy'. The carb dashpots do not get hot due to the heat-shields but the fuel pump has done over the past few days and I can only touch the pump for about 3 seconds before having to take my hand off it. I did a test today in the midday sun (around 30 degrees, barmy for North Yorkshire I know) and one at 22:00 to see if it was heat related. The dashpot were cool tonight and fuel pump cooler than midday with me able to hold onto it for 8 seconds or so before it being too hot to hold onto but it still started spluttering uncomfortably after 20 mins again. Surely if the timing was out it would splutter straight away? Anyone have any words of wisdom please? Here are a few pics of 'Lockie'. Thanks Oli

Hi, Anyone have an old vintage radio lurking around to fit a Spitfire? Doesn't have to work! Thanks Oli

Thanks everyone!

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a professional car painter to do a great job to my 1965 Spitfire in the North Yorkshire area. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks Oli

Sorry I don't quite understand. I want to put a mk2 gt6 bonnet on a mk2 spitfire, what do I need to change to the spitfire bonnet hinges to fit the mk2 gt6 bonnet please? Thanks Oli

Hi everyone, Would a mk2 gt6 bonnet fit onto a mk2 spitfire? Thanks Oli

Good evening everyone, I need some advice on how to weld in a new patch on the A post(s) on my Spitfire. As you can see from the photos I thought it would be an easy repair but after taking the initial section out the rust continues inside the A post but seems okay further down on the inside of the post and the outside. Any ideas of how to replace? Thanks Oli

What the rust/condition like please?

Please contact me if you have a windscreen frame for sale. Thanks Oli

Hi everyone, I wondered what is the best way to remove the door skins? One will need repairing and the other replacing. Cant seem to peel back the folds with a chisel as it is tpo tight. Thanks Oli

Hi everyone, Does anyone have an replacement seals for an ashley hardtop for a triumph spitfire mk2? Thanks Oli

Sent you a pm!

Yes I've seen these. Maybe one in between haha!