ShaunW

I've moved this topic to a new thread as it was clogging up my thread about my OD issues. Any info on what's what or corrections would be appreciated. The car is alledgedly a '76 Spitfire ...(modified at some point to be a Spit6?) Engine : CP77469HF Started life in a 1972 TR6 and would have had PI ? Would have had the more aggressive cam (originally, not nec what's in there now as I haven't checked it) ...that's all I think I know Carbs : Strombergs tagged as 3581 (but only 1.375 across the filter side inlet) Marked "CD" but no other designation. might these have started life on a GT6? Inlet manifold : 311749 Late GT6 ? But the vacuum takeoff isn't tapped? G/Box : 3-rail, can't see a number on it anywhere OD : D-Type Probably not strong enough for the engine? Chassis : FC2777774 All I can find on that number says Mk2 Spitfire, but surely that's not correct! Commission# : FH82626 Plate is obviously new, model says 'Spitfire 1500' but the number is from a Mk4 ? Trim code : 11 s/b Black Vinyl (Smooth grain ‘Stag’) but it's got cloth covered seats with vinyl sides & headrests (could these be from a GT6?) Quartlights : Yes So are these GT6 doors or can quartelights be fitted to Spit doors? Hubs & Calipers : Seems to be from a GT6 but there's no brake servo. Spit bearings didn't fit, GT6 ones did. I realise I've got a bit of a bitsa on my hands. I'm not too bothered about that, but I just wanted to know exactly what bit's she's made from.

1.375 across the inlet on the filter side. Not sure about across the butterfly. Shopping list items duly noted. I'll talk to you about it more when the time comes.

I'm sure they do Dick, many people do. But those just seem to be generic covers in standard sizes rather than actually tailored and although I'm sure they're adequant, they don't appear to be an especially premium item compared to others I've seen. I'm looking for the following features ideally: fleece lined. 3 or 4 layer. plasitic retaining buckles for straps under the car. elasticated edges. nice tight tailored fit (not just fitting where it touches). long term durability. high wind speed rating. vents to release moisture. security features. storage bag. ** subdued colour (black/navy) not garish bird-scarer silver.** ... that sort of thing.

Winter's coming and the Spit has got to stand outside in it. Can anyone recommend a really good quality, tailored, full cover that will keep her snug and dry? I'd bought one of those half covers to see me through summer but it's a terrible fit and the wind gets under it. It's ok if you want quick protection from heavy rain but pretty hopeless as a solution for winter.

Any idea what these are? Some sort of plug inserted after the internals were fitted?. Plugged vents needed in the casting process? (btw dontcha just hate it when people have been using the wrong sized spanner, I had to file that operating valve plug down to 11mm to get rid of the rounded corners so I could get a good grip on it. It was really tight. A good whack on the top with a BFH helped to shift it)

I had a measure today and the carbs are 1.375" at the intake so I suppose they'd be classified as 150s. Not ideal but they'lll be quick enough for me, for now. Must say those holes do look pretty small when you think it's sucking in 83l of air per second at 4000rpm (i think). I once worked that half shaft roller bearings are doing about 20,000 rpm at 50mph...but i digress. The OD - When I do a pressure test, do I leave the spindle/ball/shoe/spring in place or remove them? To test the pressure I need to run the car at about 40mph, on stands. Apart from chains and a rip-cord on the coil lead, any tips? I suppose a foot poised on the clutch and not jiggling around seem like the best idea. The neighbours opposite have got a pretty long driveway so I should be ok if I'm suddenly launched at the horizon. I think I'll put the steering wheel back on, just in case.

Clive. A carb upgrade is going to have to be a job for the future. Maybe even next summer. Sadly I've no idea what work has been done on the engine. I ought to get inside and see if there's head work or what cam & bore etc but it's running well, I only have a driveway and single garage workshop, nights are drawing in and I've got a job list as long as your arm. It'll get done one day because I hate not knowing. Back to the topic... Does anyone know the spec of the threaded hole? Tapered or parallel? I was going to buy std hydraulic parts and a gauge. Much cheaper than a £60 'special' one from a car parts dealer. Pete, I might fit a piece of clear tubing snuggly in the hole first. I should still see the splashes but hopefully keep things clean. But I still might point the other end of it out of the car incase you're pulling my leg. Being new here i don't want to find out you're the class joker the hard way. If I see evidence of pump working I'll get a gauge and test it both with the current oil and the new ep90 to gather some intel, although I do accept that the gearbox is happier on ep90 whatever my test reveals. I feel much happier now I've got a plan. Thanks guys.

Brilliant stuff guys... Clive: All noted. Everything's been tested in situ rather than on the bench. hehe it's funny how a piece of gaffa tape gives you the mental reassurance that you're protected from shrapnel and just having the cover off somehow convinces you that it's all going to go bang for the first time in 40yrs. You mentioned running it in 3rd too (more revs) but isn' t the OD pump driven from the output shaft of the box(?) so I'd have thought that road speed would be the key rather than engine RPM. Engine is CP77469HF, and I think....think the carbs are 150s but I forget to measure them when I did the filters which was silly (3581 on the tag). It also looks like the G/box number has been ground off...so I wonder if someone chaged the ratios at some point in it's life. I have some doco from a resto in 2002 that came with her and it lists a KE box and a KC engine....curiouser and curiouser. Pete: Kind words about my efforts, you sometimes need that when you feel beaten. Especially when you keep reading that '99% of problems are this or that' and somehow you're still stuck. You suggest trying it with the top plug removed?... mmm excuse my cynical tone but isn't there about 450psi of oil behind that plug? If I'm going to do that I think I'll have the roof off just in case ! The neighbours will think I've struck oil. I think it's time to get a pressure gauge, would you know if it's a BSPP or a BSPT fitting? That's a very kind offer to have a look but I'm up near Cadwell (Horncastle actually) and everywhere is a long way from where we are. classiclife: Again very encouraging words and after i'd looked up 'italian tune-up' it made me smile. It's a fair point though and I know I'm a bit timid with her. I haven't quite got the confidence yet to run a 50yr old engine up near the red line even though it sounds as sweet as a nut. After I've done a few more miles it'll be a different story I hope. Maybe if I clench my butt cheeks together hard enough, grit my teeth and turn my head away slightly, she'll survive a good thrashing without exploding. OK, really should be working now actually so I'll sign off for now. I'll definately report back when I've got a bit further, there's nothing worse than reading a thread where the OP vanishes and you don't get to hear what the fix was. The consensus seems to be that oil & pressure is the next thing to investigate. Strangly the OD mounting plate only has 2 access holes and not one for the drain, but popping the filter cover off does the job even if it is a bit more agro and a lot messier. ...shaun .

I seem to have posted this in the wrong topic. Sorry.

I've only had the car a couple of months so it's all mostly as I found it. I see yours is a 2.5PI...mine's a 2500.

That's all really interesting Richard. I've had the car about 2 months and the OD has never worked. I've only done about 30 miles so far because I've been rebuilding all of the front end susp/brakes, half shafts & bearings and lots of other little bits and bobs. I'd previously just topped up the box with EP90 and it didn't work. So I set that job aside until the running gear was all tip top. So, recently I set about doing the OD wiring/adjustment/filter/operating valve etc and after a lot of looking around I thought I'd made the right choice with the 30w. But I'm more than happy to stand corrected though. I've only done about 3 miles to try it so I'm pretty sure I haven't done any lasting damage. I managed to out-think myself on the oil and changed my mind several times, but to be fair I had seen several convincing articles that recommended it, albeit on US forums. I think I assumed that a weightier oil might help if the pump was a bit worn. I may also have been a bit timid on my test drive, the country roads near me are a bit rough and I'm still being overly gentle with her. The racket when the tunnel is off and the prop shaft flying around near your 'seat' makes you take things gently. I probably barely got to 30 so that wouldn't have helped to develop much pressure. For all I know it hasn't worked for years. I won't be able to get back on the job untill next weekend and I'll certain try your advice before I do anything drastic. I'm pretty resigned to being off the road now through the winter but I do want to get the OD done (mechanicals...tick) before I set about the interior, a job I'm much more at home with. I really ought to see about contacting the local TSSC group...and I really should join too. I was member for a short while in the early 80s when I had a couple of spits and a GT6. I wonder if I'm still on file? The car is basically a 76 Spitfire that's somehow ended up with a GT6 bonnet & front hubs, a TR5 or 6 2500 engine, Strombergs, a 3-rail box, D-type OD.. She's a bit of a mongrel, but that's fine by me. It's been a challenge figuring out what she is actually because there's no numbers on the diff or the g/box. It was reassuring to hear you're not really a gearbox guy either, you do sometimes get the impression in forums that you're the only one who's not making their own cogs and stripping engines down blind-folded. I know my limitations, but learning is fun too. That said, it would be nice to just get this problem dealt with now. Many thanks for your replies. Forums can be amazing resourses but that only happens when there's give and take, when things settle down a bit here I hope to contribute rather than just asking for advice. I'll certainly be reporting any details of the eventual fix incase anyone else with the same issues stumbles upon this thread. regards, shaun

My Spit6 (actually more like a SpiTR6(?) because it's got a TR6 engine) has got quarterlights. I don't recall Spitfires having quarterlights so does this mean I've got the doors from a GT6?

Thanks Richard. It's great to see these guys documenting their knowledge for future generations. That's a glowing recommendation indeed and one I'll note. I'd much rather have it rebuilt than exchange it. I know it's a hard question to answer but have you any idea what he''d charge? Do you have a business contact email/number? I'd love to take it and meet him but Mancester is a 280ml round trip so I'll probably have to add 2xCourier to my bill. I'm keen to have a go at getting it out/in myself but I'm snookered if I get half way through and get stuck because I don't have mate to help or a trailer to get the car to a garage. I'm starting to think I should have someone remove it, have John fix it, then have someone put it back in. Anyone who knows their stuff could probably have it out and put back in in a couple of hours, especially with the interior out of the way, so it shouldn't hurt my budget as much as my ego. ..shaun

Hi, I've tried all of the following but my *!$!@#! overdrive still isn't working. Any ideas would be very gratefully received before I concede defeat..... So far I've: 1. Checked electrics & solenoid operation...All A1 with a nice crisp snap at the operating lever. 2. Lever adjustment, done, perect alignment every time it operates. 3. Cleaned tiny hole in operating valve. 4. Cleaned filter. (3 very small bits of black swarf but nothing alarming) 5. Brimming full with fresh 30W non detergent oil (Millers) 6. Hit it with a lump hammer while driving and tried dropping the clutch etc ...still nothing I could do a pressure test next but if it's good then the next thing would be to take it out and look inside....and if it's bad then the next thing would also be to take it out and look inside. I've never taken one out before and a bit worried about shaft alignment etc, I also don't know if I can get it out without talking the gearbox out too. Fortunately the only interior I have is a driver's seat for testing so access is as good as it gets. I'm reluctant to get a recon unit for what's probably a tuppeny part that needs replacing inside but unless I can summon up the courage/knowledge to pull out the OD then I might not have any choice but to get one, and have someone else fit it. That's a double blow to my ego and really REALLY goes against the grain. So, any last ideas before I break out the cheque book and admit I'm not man enough to handle it? btw I've been using these as a reference...D-Type OD Strip Down. D-Type OD Rebuild Thanks.

Thanks Gully. I'll have a read of that later.

Any particular flavour of jam? The comma is such a poweful tool for something so small.

Thanks for the advice...and so quick. I'll try not to ask too many naive questions. I owned a few spits and a GT6 back in the early 80's and it's taking a while to access the memory banks. Plus back then I was only in short trousers so didn't get much beyond topping up the dashpots. Everything on these cars is so wonderfully easy to get at, except the things that are an absolute swine. If I crack the solenoid issue the next thing will be how to get a decent angle on the adjuster in the castellated nut when the adapter plate is in the way? It seems that the guy that owned it before me had had his 3 shreaded wheat because everything is so damn tight. To get the Courier I guess I need to join the TSSC? I wonder if they still have my details when I was a member in the 80's ? It's hard to imagine that back then my car was less than 10 years old and now this 'new' one is over 40. The V5 even says 'Classic' which is not suprising really because my passport now says 'Vintage' Thanks again.

Hello all, It's my first post here so be kind. I need to change the solenoid on my D-type OD that's in a Spitfire (1976, Triumph2500 eng, 3-rail box) I've heard it said that there's no easy way to access the lower solenoid screw, so can anyone suggest a 'least difficult' way to do it? I was thinking of either detaching the propshaft, undoing the OD mounts and jacking the OD up a bit to access it from above. Or maybe it would be better to remove the exhaust, slide the OD mounting plate out from under the OD, allow it to drop a bit and access it from underneath. I'd like to get past the stage of just staring at it and scratching my head ideally. (I suspect that getting it back in will probaby be twice as hard, any tips for holding a screw on the end of a driver?...I was wondering about using shrink tube) All ideas gratefully received.