Johnc
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Posts posted by Johnc
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1 hour ago, johny said:
yes John, you need to do a compression test on the engine - wet and dry. That is test before and after adding a little oil to each bore through the sparkplug holes to tell you if any low reading is due to bore/ring wear or leaking valves. You should hope for results around 150psi and the same on all (if you do get this then all is well and theres no need to continue with a wet test).
Be warned though that this could be opening a big can of worms and it might be best just to carry on driving the car with no testing😂
Thanks all for your comments, the engine is the only bit of the car that has had no attention at all, so it was always going to be the next big lump of expense. How much oil should I use for the wet test?
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So finally got a chance to look at the oil flow to the rockers and all seems well. The reason that I got that chance is because the car has developed a misfire after a spirited run to see some friends yesterday. Both there and back on the M25 keeping up with the traffic. At the end of each leg the temp gauge was bang in the middle (ie not showing any signs of over heating ) but the oil pressure light would flicker on and off at tickover. There seemed to be more fumes coming from the oil filler cap so I removed the rocker cover and started the engine, to be greeted with this video attached.
Are these fumes normal - I'm sure that I didn't see them when I had the cover off before.
Thanks
John
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i didn’t have time to run it with the cover off after i had adjusted the tappets, but might have tomorrow.
I try to use it regularly, much to the chagrin of the rest of the household (wife and daughter hate it and youngest son thinks it’s really embarrassing). it’s usually out 2-3 times a week, and lives on the drive with a good quality cover over it.
John
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I set about adjusting my tappets yesterday as they were quite noisy. when i removed the rocker cover i found the front three valves/ rockers looked like they were covered in corrosion( these all cleaned up easily) These valves were also the only ones that needed any adjustment. is this a case of blocked oilways or something more terminal.
thanks in advance for any help.
John
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Thanks Pete -
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Thank you all for your thoughts - a little background. The car was off the road for 8 years being restored and during that time I had a Ford type 9 gearbox fitted along with a new clutch. The car was not run for 3-4 years after the gearbox swap was done.
I assumed that it is engine oil but will do a little investigation when I’ve got five minutes, The gearbox was straight out of a breakers yard so of unknown history. Hopefully the oil seal on the gearbox might be easier to replace.
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Hi
I have a 13/60 which has a oil leak at the rear of the engine snd low down. My guess would be that it is the rear crank oil seal.
My plan would be to pull the engine and replace the seal - the clutch is new and has only done a few hundred miles. In preparation do I need to buy anything other than the replacement seal ie is there anything else that will/ should be replaced?
thanks in advance
John
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Thanks for all your replies and tips - all I've got to due is find a spare day now.😀
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Morning Colin and Johny
Thanks for your advice, I had a feeling that changing the UJs on the car wasn't going to work.
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Evening all
I have a replacement diff from Mike Papworth to replace my incredibly noisy diff.
I have 2 questions
1) would it be worth replacing the UJs whilst the diff is off? and if so, can you change the UJs on the car whilst the diff is of or is it necessary to remove the hub assembly to change them?
2) will I need a spring lifter and could I do this in a day.
thanks in anticipation.
John
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To update - my grill is refreshed and quite possibly not to standard spec, but I like the way it gives the car a slightly more aggressive look:
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On 17/07/2020 at 15:33, Paul H said:
The door is now fully stripped to component parts with the quarter light out and top rivet removed . Next job is to kill the internal rust in the door and add a protective coating using Bilthamber products though not sure which products to use yet
The rear window channel has a layer of felt which is passed its best. Any ideas where this can be sourced ?
Paul
Hi Paul -
I have used some Black felt from Woolies (87-2-1/16).
To get the correct thickness to hold the glass I folded over one edge by 10mm and glued it down with some contact adhesive.
It looks like it was meant to be and is far better fit than any of the off the shelf channel that I bought.
john
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Thanks Jeff
that looks just like mine, having trawled the net it looks like they might have been painted silver( to match the earlier aluminium grills) with black reveals.
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Evening All
I have a plastic grill on my 1360 and after some new paint the grill is now letting the car down.
I want to improve it, can anybody tell me what colour the grills where originally.
Many thanks
John
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Thanks all - I’ve used the automotive adhesive already it’s a great get out of jail free card. All I’ve got to do is find a pair of brackets .
cheers
john
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Evening All
looking under my bonnet today I noticed a couple of brackets with nothing attached.
The car has been completely stripped, repaired and rebuild by 2 different people so I don’t recall what was originally fitted to them.
Some cars seem to have the horns fitted to them and some a strengthening plate. Is there a single correct answer or are both options factrey.
cheers
John
No Compression on No.3
in Engine
Posted
After a spirited run on the M25 of 15 miles each way to go to a funeral a few weeks ago my Herald started to misfire on the way home, then close to home it was so bad that I thought that I wasn't going to get home. I had thought that it may have been me adjusting the tappets incorrectly and checked them all to no avail. I asked a friend to come and have a look - maybe a fresh pair of eyes would see something I hadn't.
He found that the distributor was loose and had probably moved and messed up the timing. We checked the compression and number 3 had no compression. Initial suspicion was a burnt valve, so I took the head off to have a look.
I don't know what a burnt valve looks like, but there would appear to be some leakage between cylinders 2 and 3 and the exhaust valve looks dirty to me.
I would be grateful for any ideas you all might have.
many thanks
John
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