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Ian Foster

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Posts posted by Ian Foster

  2. K&N Filters

    in Engine

    Posted

    Triumph had various versions of the air box on the 4 and 6 cyl cars, both with and without feed tubes from the front. Some have holes/slots in the bottom and or sides and top, suggesting they were trying to address issues if getting equal airflow to the front and rear carb. There are some Triumph original designs that do similar. The box shown in Piglet's OP has slots in the top, which would appear to drawing hot air from the top of the engine bay???. I previously found this image of an airbox (probably modified) on a 4 cyl car which looks to have been designed specifically to get air to the rear carb, although there is no ducting to the front of the car. 

    On the GT6 the box is of uniform thickness and the WSM and original brochures show inlet tubes on the front of the box, but no pipes, which seem to appear later (perhaps on the Mk3). The saloons have a particular problem due to the proximity of the suspension turret and as a consequence have very thin airboxes. Late versions (2500S IIRC) have a unique airbox enlarged and fed centrally from the bottom. On my GT6 Mk2, I have CD175 carbs (as fitted when I bought the car in 1977) so I have limited space between the face of the carb and the wheel arch and currently use K&N filters until such time as I can come up with an airbox designs which ticks enough of the boxes.

    Ian

    image.png.7d107c269b0d1f624931860d9ccc8dfb.png i

  3. Front wheel bearing side thrust

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    2 hours ago, johny said:

    bearing set up is a strange design with it intentionally being left loose however I do like to keep the play to a minimum

    Jonny

    You may like to consider fitting a bearing spacer kit, which comprises a precision length tube which sits over the stub axle and incorporates shims to set up the end float. The nut is then tightened to a specific torque. This stops the inner part of the bearing races rotating and wearing the stub axle and that washer. You don't state model, but I got mine for my GT6 from Shacktune.

    One of the best 'mods' I have done and bearings seem to be very stable as a result.

    Ian

  6. 20/50 oil for Vitesse

    in Engine

    Posted

    6 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    I used to use Castrol GTX all the time

    My GT6 lived on a diet of Duckhams 20/50 (the green stuff) between 1978 and about 1993 during which time I took the mileage from 68-185K, but post rebuild has been partial to Valvoline VR1.

    I think just changing it regularly and having fresh oil in the for winter when it is more likely to be standing, is probably the most important thing.

    Compared to the price of synthetics our 'good ol' mineral oils are still fairly affordable.

    Ian

  10. New shock absorbers for rear of Vitesse Mk2 2L with chassis mounted extension brackets and rotoflex

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Pat

    I built chassis extension brackets for my GT6 Mk2 as per the attached drawing. These do the same thing as the proprietary brackets, but also achieve the correct fore and aft position to line up with the bottom mount.

    Used with Koni 80-1717 dampers (292mm open, 216mm closed) - usually sold for the front of a classic mini. The bushes had to be drilled out slightly, but were supplied with thick wall tubes.

    PS I see you are Dorset-shout if you want to meet up to have a look.

    PPS I also had a bad experience of 'adjustable' SPAX.

    Ian

    GT6-Damper Bracket.pdf

  11. Things are getting smokey and smelly!

    in Engine

    Posted

    4 hours ago, avivalasvegas said:

    The thermostat was just replaced last month. Overflow bottle appears normal.

    Clearly not a condenser issue then.

    When you replaced the stat, did you top up and run the system with the heater on.

    I'm just thinking that when you opened the heater valve (your initial trigger to the problem) water was drawn into the heater creating a deficit (airlock) elsewhere.

    I have been very particular about how I refill my cooling system, creating a good head and bleed path above the radiator and the thermostat housing using clear pipe and funnels, so as to get all of the air out. It does show definite benefits.

    Does your radiator cap seal properly ? If not the system won't pull water back in properly as it cools.

    Ian

    • Thanks 1

  12. Things are getting smokey and smelly!

    in Engine

    Posted

    29 minutes ago, cliff.b said:

    I have a VOX amp with one real pre amp tube that contains 2 actual valve elements

    Cliff 

    I also have a VOX (VT30) amp. Clever bit of kit. (epic thread drift BTW)

    Do we know if the patient is running on points or EI.

    Heater valve could easily drop water on the exhaust manifold. Hot coolant has a definite smell, but not sure I have ever smelt it burnt off an exhaust.

    Picture shows water to normal level in the rad, but has it been lost from the system, ie has the level in the overflow bottle changed?

    Ian

  14. GT6 mk2: starting my engine rebuild

    in Engine

    Posted

    16 hours ago, DanielH said:

    Current stage is: engine returned from machinist.

    Hi Dan

    Presumably as you have passed the machinist stage, various decisions have already been made, ie crank regrind, new pistons and rebore etc.

    Is your objective to rebuild as standard or do you have aspirations to take it further and pep things up a bit.

    I rebuilt my Mk2 engine in 2010/11 and would be happy to share the spec with you if it would help.

    Ian

  15. Pertronix Ignitor

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Pete

    I have a NOS distributor cap, red rotor arm, Magnacor leads and Boche triple electrode plugs, similar to Iain's spec and have not experienced any problems to date.

    The Pertronix is supposedly tolerant of the ignition being left on without the engine running. It will be interesting to see if the coil generates any significant heat in this situation 

    I could definitely feel the improvement when I changed from a Lucas? sports coil.

    Ian

  19. ** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!

    in My Triumph Restoration Project

    Posted

    On 12/03/2022 at 16:09, Badwolf said:

    This is the beast in question

    Mine was similar when I started. Hardboard was used to replace any missing sections and then it was stabilized with epoxy resin and glass fibre.

    I used an external covering of Dynamat and lined it internally with aluminium foil tape. Omitting the original 'insulation in a plastic bag' allows more airflow.

    Ian

     

    DSC_0075.JPG

    DSC_0076.JPG

    • Like 2

  20. Water and E5/E10

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    13 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    It's Velcro these days

    Velcroed slippers were banned in my Dad's care home, as 'residents tended to rub and stick their feet together and then 'face plant' when they got up!

    Who knew......??

    Ian

  21. Gt6 mk 3 front springs

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Hi Johno

    Standard springs for GT6 are rated at 220lb/in. 

    I have 330 lb/in 'uprated' springs on my Mk2, which were supplied by Triumphtune in the 1980s, which I use with Koni fixed seat dampers. This lowers the front slightly. I always felt the front end was a bit 'floaty' and the uprated strings and of course the new and better spec dampers were a significant improvement in my opinion.

    Moss Europe took over the Triumphtune range and although they list TT4701PR 330lb/in springs, they are shown as NCA (not currently available) https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/uprated-road-springs-front.html

    SC parts list a 330lb/in spring for Spitfire/Herald with a free length of 250mm. (they state the free length or original springs is 325mm)  https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/coil-spring-1-148377.html

    Rimmers list an uprated spring with a rate of 264lb/in which is 20% over standard. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-212425UR

    The club shop have 'heavy duty' GT6/Herald/Vitesse spring at 15% over standard ie 253lb/in and state that 'they will raise the ride height unless used with adjustable pan shocks'.

    Others have used springs rated at 480lb/in and above.

    Without taking the springs off my car I cannot confirm the free length (others may have that info) but the fitted length is circa 190mm.

    Hope this helps. I am sure others will chip in.

    Ian

     

  22. Transmission Tunnel cover

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted

    Possibly try one of the 'recyclers' eg Spitfire Graveyard. No experience but might be worth a punt.

    Also possibly Chic Doig (Scotland)

    I went the route of patching/strengthening my original one with glass/epoxy, added Dynamat to the outside and lined the inside with aluminium foil tape.

    Ian

  24. Triumph GT6 MKIII Fuel leaking from carbs into air box

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    NPD

    For reference the suction version of the Huco electric pump has a specified pressure of 2.1 PSI viz:-

    Specification:-

    • Pressure 2.1 PSI
    • Flow 27.5 Gallons per Hour (125 Litres per Hour)
    • Union fuel pipe size 5/16 inch / 8mm

    This pump is a suction type and designed to be fitted in the engine bay of the vehicle.

    This pump is ideal for use with Dellorto or Weber carburettors, the low pressure eliminates the need for a pressure regulator.

    Manufacturers part number 133010

    Ian

  25. Triumph GT6+ Restoration thread

    in My Triumph Restoration Project

    Posted

    Good progress being made.

    Chassis looks to be in good condition and a nice colour too. Might you paint the rest of the car to match?

    Is that fuel line routed through the shell. Probably a legacy from the race prep. Normal route is alongside the chassis alongside the brake line in a combination plastic clip.

    New looms are available from Autosparks (and probably others) and were about £120ish when I rebuilt my car in 2010/11. A bargain in my opinion, considering the work involved.

    Rubber bobbins are available to isolate the fuel pump from the body.

    I see you have the original cast exhaust manifold in the spares pile.

    Keep up the good work. It will get easier as the days lengthen and the weather improves. At least you have a spacious garage and an impressive collection of other cars.

    Ian

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