Ian Foster
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Posts posted by Ian Foster
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Ha ha
Mines even posher than Doug's.
I haven't got' a raised block fitted with with interleaved plates', but I do have a shiny chrome filtered filler cap, a Smiths valve and a catch can!!
Ian
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Matt
Firstly welcome to the GT6 club. They are great cars and I'm sure you will grow to love yours once the teething problems are sorted. I've had my Mk2 since September 1977 and there's always something to do.
It sounds as though you have multiple issues.
My initial thoughts for what it's worth:-
- High idle sounds sounds like an air leak. If the larger carbs have been fitted using adapter plates, these are a possible source of leaks. My car has Stromberg 175CD2s and I have ditched the adapters and modified the manifold to give 4 stud fixings.
- Correct float levels and clean fuel supply is critical (SUs and Strombergs)
- Huco fuel pump is excellent.
- Use only E5 fuel and set the timing to 12 deg dynamic using the strobe (as WSM) as a base setting.
- Reluctance to start (or intermittent starting) could well be the starter solenoid. Mine played up and has now been by-passed, which I can do as I have a high-torque starter which doesn't need the solenoid.
I also have a Pertronix Ignitor 2 unit with a Flame Thrower coil. I think they have a good reputation for reliability.
Let us know how you get on with your checks.
Ian
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Pete
I think the Marina ones would be for a type 14 caliper. I can't find anything that lists a spring edge shim for a type 16P caliper.
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Pete
A steer on a supplier for those anti rattle shims please.
I'm using wire clips at the moment, but they are fairly robust and I think restrict the pads a bit.
Ian
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5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
shims with edge springs look like this
Pete
Do you know a supplier for shims to fit 16P calipers.
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On 02/09/2023 at 13:10, nicrguy1966 said:
Sadly, I can't turn the engine using the nut on the end of the alternator, the pulley turned, but the fan belt didn't.
When I had a standard mechanical fan, I used to use it when turning the engine to check/adjust the tappets. (you might want to wear a glove to protect your hands as the fan blades are quite sharp). Alternatively you could try tightening the fan belt so you can use the alternator pulley as previously suggested.
Now that I have just and electric fan, I use a spanner on the crank bolt.
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Irrespective of the type of valve, I think they all must be susceptible to dirt/rust, which is inevitable with our bare metal steel fuel tanks.
A good clean and 20mins in the ultrasonic cleaner has always worked for me to clean standard float valves.
I always pump a bit of fuel through before refitting the valves, which should flush out any trapped crud.
Ian
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2 hours ago, nicrguy1966 said:
I had a reconditioned engine fitted about 15 years ago
It is possible that the cam was installed incorrectly. The check procedure will show if it is out.
Ref Pete's question above, is this a new or longstanding issue?
Ian
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I run 27 front and 24 rear on my Mk2 GT6, on the basis that there is more load being carried on the front axle.
Tyres seem to wearing evenly and the steering (even with with my 12" wheel) is quite manageable.
Ian
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34 minutes ago, Roger said:
This is how it sounds just before it dies. It runs for 10minutes, won't rev, looses power and finally dies.
Roger
Can you please take a video looking into the mouth of the carbs, so we can see what the slides are doing.
I have a Huco on my GT6. Good bit of kit. I can clearly hear the pump filling the float chambers before a first start. After yours has conked, when you turn the ignition back on does the pump run to fill the bowls?
Ian
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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
we used the exiting mount with some spacers
Pete
What specifically was exiting about it?
Ian
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Tricky thing springs!
Ian
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Iain
The photo shows the shorter spring has a tighter pitch.
Is that relevant?
Ian
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20 hours ago, Qu1ckn1ck said:
175/70 R13 tyres fitted to 5.5J wheels
+1
Ian
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4 hours ago, johny said:
the more the rad cap spring gets compressed during installation the greater the cooling system pressure needed to open it.....
That is my understanding also. So a 1" deep cap fitted into a nominal 3/4" deep radiator neck, would be opening at a higher pressure than intended.
Ian
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10 minutes ago, johny said:
radiator caps for Triumphs also come in a 1" deep version as opposed to the 3/4" recommended for the GT6
Didn't know that. I suppose this is an option, but it might be better to use a 7lb cap on a 13lb system, as the additional compression would increase the effective spring rate.
Ian
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Iain
Radiator neck is 19.05mm deep from top surface to lower sealing surface.
The cap (7lb) is 20.2mm between the two seal surfaces. My spare 13lb cap is 19.4mm.
Ian
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13 minutes ago, Iain T said:
Ian, can you measure neck to seal and cap?
Iain
Sorry, could you clarify please. My early post covered neck and cap depths.
Ian
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Kevin
That's interesting, but a bit worrying that you have had to distort the cap to get it to work. I'm not sure the system will pressurize properly like that.
The metal ring of my 13lb cap has a diameter of 38.05mm above the lower seal. The inside of the neck is 40.8mm, so just over 1mm of clearance all round.
Ian
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Iain
That does sound odd!
I have just popped the rad cap off to check mine.
Radiator neck 19.05mm, cap (7lb) 20.2mm. My spare 13lb cap is 19.4mm. There are witness marks on both seals on the cap indicating they are making contact with the neck.
For info, water was being held in the overflow pipe and released down into the overflow bottle as soon as I opened the cap. Water level was right up to/just over the level of the lower sealing surface of the radiator.
Perhaps Kevin might like to check his as well.
Ian
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12 hours ago, Ian Foster said:
and no change in level in the reservoir bottle.
This is the concerning bit, which leads me to still suspect the cap.
Photo attached of my top hose, which definitely has a fabric reinforcement (probably supplied by Canleys).
Kevin, I have a used but serviceable 13lb radiator cap going spare if you would like it.
Ian
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1 hour ago, Kevin Atkins said:
On my return, engine fully warm, opened the bonnet, hose bulging again.. and no change in level in the reservoir bottle.
On that basis the radiator cap or overflow pipe is not allowing excess coolant to be expelled into the expansion bottle.
If the pipe is clear, then it must be the radiator cap. At design pressure the lower section of the radiator cap is supposed to lift off the lower sealing surface in the radiator neck and coolant flows via the space between the upper and lower seals into the overflow pipe to the expansion bottle.
Have you tried different caps?
Ian
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On 06/07/2023 at 18:17, trigolf said:
there is a noticeable 'clonk' when you grip the inner 'Lobro'
Lobros are a marvel of engineering and should give a long service life as long as the boots have been intact. My axle conversion uses 95mm Lobros off a Volvo 340 and had already had a life before being built into the Jones/Bowler CV axle conversion.
I understand that new ones are often quite stiff and you can pay extra for new 'motorsport spec' units which have been disassembled and polished internally with a Dremel and fine sanding drum.
It will be interesting to hear what CDD say, particularly as yours are OK on one side.
Ian
GT6 Mk3 only runs well with VERY advanced timing. Any ideas why?
in Electrical System
Posted
If you have the skill to plaster a wall, you can certainly time a Triumph camshaft.
Good luck.