pirate
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Posts posted by pirate
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Hi I've just fitted twin SU's to my 13/60 and realised that it doesn't have the extra downward outlet as the single carb manifold.
So I presume that I need to fit a t piece in the hose someone has said that it should have a restrictor in it?
I've ordered a 15mm equal t piece do I need to fit a restrictor in one of the outlets.
Any info appreciated.
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2 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Did she eat the garlic bread?
Doug
We shared it, I had left the oven fan with no heat running for an hour house door open.
tasted ok
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Don't know if anyone else has tried it, I spray painted my exhaust manifold with very high temperature graphite grey think it came out well, time will tell if it lasts.
rotary wire brush, clean with spirit, I did 6 coats, let it dry for about an hour then make sure the wife is out and bake it in the oven at 160C for a further hour.
cook garlic bread to kill the smell she never suspected anything!
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I gave up with the Accuspark and fitted the old points distributor couldn't find my feeler gauges so set the points gap by rack of eye method, It gave a good spark.
earlier in the thread I had fitted new tank to fuel pump cunifer pipe, today made up stainless steel braided fuel pipe with in line fuel filter before the pump. Burrs taken off the cut pipe and blown out with the airline.
On trying to start the car fuel was peeing out of the overflow, put a post on the Sports 6 FB page and Rob came back try checking the float setting. It was indeed a long way out and checking the manual it gave the setting at 18mm put back together and problem cured.
turned the engine over and it didn't seem that petrol was getting through, tried a few different things then in a final attempt put my hand over the carb intake, it coughed and sputtered spat petrol out and on the next attempt fired up for about 6 seconds kept trying it and same each time. Then I could hear the regulator clicking and then smoke pouring out!
Luckily I had a new one on the shelf, the joys of classic cars you just never know what's going to give next! On investigation the contacts were bad, coils rusty and now smoking!
As I was changing it I put my hand on the coil, It was red hot then discovered that was cooked!
Some choice words, you little bast**d you won't beat me! Quick search and pulled out a second hand coil.
took a plug out to check if I had a spark, good bright spark showing.
I fitted a starter solenoid with a button back in the thread which has been a good move, I put my hand over the air intake again and it fired up, worked the throttle linkage and got good revs the engine sounded sweet.
couldnt run it for long as I have no rad fitted yet, but she runs! And I had at last a smile on my chops.
Gpt a way to go yet before it's ready for back on the road will give it a good service before I do.
I have no idea what the starting problem was but fixed a multitude of things along the way!
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7 hours ago, NonMember said:
It's a very long time since I had a 13/60. On a Spitifre, the horns attach to the bottom rail of the U-frame that holds the radiator (engine valances attach to the uprights of that). On a Vitesse, the horns are on the bonnet as there's no room around the radiator.
So the horn plate is attached to the bonnet, must be some brackets somewhere will look through the box.
cheers
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I've got the car stripped down for restoration, I tried one of the newly painted engine valance panels on yesterday and thought I would offer up the horn plate, It's been over 2 years since I stripped the car and can't remember what It bolts too.
Anyone got pics showing the assembly, looked in the restoration manual and it shows nowt!
I wanted to plan how the new ally full width radiator was going to fit.
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I'm doing mine at the moment part of the restoration.
Newspaper and masking tape is fine I have covered the engine with an old sheet just to keep overspray off, I'm using a compressor and spray gun.
If your putting a few coats of primer on, you can spray the next coat as soon as the last one is touch dry without rubbing down, it will bond ok.
I would give the primer overnight to dry before lightly rubbing down before top coat, be careful as you can soon rub through to bare metal again.
If the pipes look to be in good order not pitted with rust you should be able to move them enough to do the repair.
hope it helps.
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Back working on the project I've got quite a bit done while I've been on light duties, up dated my FB page.
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17 minutes ago, NonMember said:
When you say it's "not run properly for 2 years", do you mean it's not run at all? been started but wasn't happy? or been started a few times but not allowed to warm up?
If the last of those, that's why it's full of mayo.
Yes not had a proper run just moved in and out of the garage, I'll give it a clean out probably would benefit with flushing out filter and oil before running it properly.
cheers.
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10 minutes ago, NonMember said:
I think you're missing a spacer. The fast idle lever should not hit the manifold!
11 minutes ago, NonMember said:I think you're missing a spacer. The fast idle lever should not hit the manifold!
Your right had a walk back in the garage tidying some spanners away and saw the thick spacer gasket on the bulkhead doh!
all fastened up and not hitting the manifold.
Cant see the wood for the trees sometimes lol.
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Hi I rebuilt my Stromberg carb some time ago and just fitted it, the butterfly linkage doesn't seem right looked in the manual but can't find a decent photo.
how I have it at the moment.
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Hi, the car has not run properly for 2 years due to restoration I've just taken the rocker box cover off to find thick emulsified gunk, is this due to breather problems or more serious head gasket?
took some photos.
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Re built the carb with service kit not re fitted it yet as now I'm taking the rusty exhaust manifold off to paint in heat resistant graphite colour paint, I remembered that one of the joints was leaking so new gaskets should sort it. The joys of doing one job that leads to many, oh well it all adds to the re build and hopefully a tidy looking trouble free car.
I should add that I used the second hand points distributor on my mates Mini Moke as he has a knackered Accuspark distributor too, It fired up first time.
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I got some 4mm staples not tried them yet can't find my staple gun at the moment
I cut out new cards in ply wood and drilled the holes, I'm putting door speakers in so might as well cut out for those too.
planning on painting around the cut out holes and door card edges with thin upva glue to seal them, then a few coats of clear varnish.
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I have a pit in my garage, was already there when we bought the house, it's lined with engineering brick, we live on top of a hill
Pit is damp but doesn't hold water.
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9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
if the ign a been left on you may have stuffed the HT Coil , that doesnt explain 1 particular pot not firing but do test you get good fat spark crack from the coil HT lead . at least 1/2" if held close to the block.
unless you need short reach plugs champion N9Y are fine some are N9/7Y ( wider ranged)
NGK BP6ES are often used .
dont remember . have you swapped the plugs around ??
can you get a compression test done ? that proves out the combustion process
Pete
Fitted new coil, no didn't swap plugs around only thought about it while typing my last post Doh.
Cant do much now while the carb is in bits kit should be here next week.
I can probably borrow a compression tester.
Cheers.
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5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
Lets go back a stage, how was it running on the old dizzy ??
Cylinder misfires can be anything from a failed spark plug, tight valve clearances, jumped push rod, head gasket, valve seat
And so on , but changing the dizzy should not induce any new running changes
There is some ideas forming that lately good plugs once wet or have a misfire never recover, ive seen more duff plugs in the last year than the previous 70 years
Do makes sure that there is no R in the plug sufix numbers
Pete
Hi Pete, The car had an electronic distributor when I got it, ran fine, the car has been off the road about two years as it needed major repairs to the body work and floors. I kept starting it and was ok. Came to start it one day and nothing, my grandson had been playing in it and left the ignition on, should have taken the key out.
Im currently re building the car.
No spark at plugs, did a search and read that if the ignition is left on it can burn the do dar out in the distributor.
Bought new Accuspark and it's not run right since.
The car had run out of petrol due to a leaking fuel pipe under the car, fitted a new kunifer pipe, put 2 gallon of petrol in got the car to start with new distributor but only running on 3 cylinders, it won't rev up which I would expect it to even running on 3.
Before I read the latest replys to the post, I have removed the carburettor and taken the fuel bowl off, It's full of crud and what appears to be sand. So going to order a service kit for it while it's off.
Perhaps I should have swapped spark plugs to see if No 1 cylinder would fire. Reading the posts not sure what plugs to go for, it's currently got Champion.
Thanks for all your replies.
Will be another job less when the carb has been re built the choke and throttle have always been stiff will fit an inline fuel filter too.
Im rushing to get the car somewhere Nr as I have to go for another opp in the New Year so that will be another 6 weeks of not being able to do anything :( I'm determined to get the car back on the road for spring!
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I had another fiddle with it, checking the distributor was all the way home in its drive, wires checked and timing.
Started to doubt the electronic distributor so bought a second hand points distributor, I was looking for one to carry as a spare in the boot anyway.
Fitted it today again checking the wiring dia to make sure I had it set up right, checked timing.
A bit of a turn on the distributor while turning engine over and it fired up, running on 3 cylinders, pulled the plug leads off to find out which wasn't firing and its No1.
took No 1 plug out wet with petrol, wound it over and good spark at the plug, re fitted still not firing.
I had noticed when I tried to rev the engine It was struggling, even just firing on 3 cylinders I would expect it to.
Can't work out why it's not firing on No 1.
I think the reason it's not reving is down to dirt in the carburettor, I took the top off the fuel pump and the filter and bowl below had crud in it. I replaced the metal fuel line the other week, but blew it through with the airline before connecting it.
Car had run out of fuel because of the leaking fuel pipe, so I'm assuming crud got into the fuel system.
Any thoughts welcome.
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58 minutes ago, Guppy916 said:
JohnD are you in Lancaster
I don't know if JohnD is but I live in Lancaster, would be interested if anyone else is.
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I've ordered the 4mm staples so will see how it goes, Just been looking at high density accustic foam it's also water/fire resistant comes in 3mm thick have messaged the seller to see if I can get it in bigger pieces.
might be too think depends how it compresses might help with noise reduction too.
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2 hours ago, Adrian Cooper said:
Would it be possible to cut the legs down to 2mm? Say if you held a clip of staples in a vice and used a Dremel or similar cutting tool?
That's a possibility Adrian, what I need to do is put the vinyl backing foam and door card board together and measure with a vernier, that will give me some idea of what length staple I can get away without it breaking through.
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I spent some time searching last night the shortest I found was 4mm, had a look at that link Paul yes it's wire size.
Just been out to the garage and found a couple of the ones I took out, not sure how they measure them, but from the top of the staple to the end of the leg they are measuring 4mm.
I did think about just glueing them but the vinyl will need stretching the staples will anchor it in place.
I could only imagine me with glue on my hands fingers and everywhere else, with a screwed up vinyl door card in the corner hahaha.
Think I'll buy a box of 4mm and do a test see if they come through.
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Trying to find short leg staples think my gun is 10-12 MM wide need 2mm leg, looked on eBay but can't see any.
For vinyl on door cards.
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24 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Graham,
Fantastic work! Fabulous colour, well I would say that, mine's mimosa.
Doug
I didn't like the original colour the mimosa changes with the light think it will look great when it's finished.
We all put a lot of effort into our projects I've enjoyed it very much, think I have got over the worst parts I'm at the bit now where you start pouring money at it to have all the parts for the re build.
I know it's not been kept as original but want it to be a usable classic, as others have said in my other post your never finished, the mechanical side seems pretty good, but will be done as a rolling restoration once MOT'd and I can use it.
Twin SU manifold coolant t piece
in Cooling System
Posted
Thanks guys I suppose run it and see can always make something up later.