pirate
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Posts posted by pirate
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Another post from the newbie.
my door card vinyl is in good condition but the wood or whatever it is has gone rotten a common fault with old cars.
what is the best material to use to re make, hardboard, ply wood?
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18 minutes ago, Anglefire said:
Linky?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282818645117
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I have just bought one will be fitting it to the Herald on re build.
reconditioned original rads are expensive!
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I bought a dremel type tool from eBay it's actually a Wolf make comes with a stand to hang it on and flexi drive.
bought extra bits including polishing, scotchbright mops and wire wheels, have to say it's brilliant for restoration gets into all those corner etc, been cleaning and preparing the dashboard heater vents today for painting.
Polishing and scotchbright mops great on chrome.
well worth getting one if your restoring parts, best £23.92 I've spent and free postage!
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Thank you for the welcome I'm already getting some good advice, great forum!
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9 minutes ago, Gary Flinn said:
It is also important you get the correct Off-set on the Wheels, I had some Dunlop D1 Replica Alloys fitted on my old Vitesse and these were ET-19 Offset and a perfect fit.
If buying from one of the usual Triumph suppliers they should be correct, but check the Offset
Regards
Gary
Thanks Gary, the seller has asked me to ring them when I'm ready to order to make sure I get the correct wheels.
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5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
THE STD STUD IS 3/8 × 24 unf
Freelander or ford are 12mm metric
Big saloon or TR are 7/16unf also available and a straight fit if you want to keep unified thread
5.5 rims suit a 175 /70 tyre , (a profile to suit the orig rolling circumference , )
All down to preference, dont go mad with the costs as age will render the tyre change before it wears out
With any wheel change the sidewall neeeds to be aligned and supported by the rim so too narrow or to fat is bad news for tyre tread support
Thanks for the info Pete I think it has 155 tyres on the standard rims, shame as they are good tyres, might see if anyone in my local classic car club are interested in them.
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Found one with a button should be here in a couple of days.
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Thank again guys.
I have checked everything and did the screwdriver test, car turns over so looks like a duff solenoid checked for output voltage with meter not getting anything just clicks.
will order another might be worth getting one with a start button?
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1 hour ago, clive said:
Extra terminal is for a car fitted with a ballasted coil, so it gets the full 12V supply during cranking for a big fat spark. But just not needed on an unballasted coil ignition.
If the terminals are connected good and tight etc, you can check with a meter or test lamp to see if the solenoid is actually connecting the 2 screw terminals when the key is turned, but assuming you don't have a flat battery (check headlights are good and bright, and if they dim down when you turn ignition key) the new solenoid if duff.
But why did you change the solenoid?
Thanks for the replies will check all connections again I have a test meter.
The car is stripped down for restoring I had been moving it about as the engine is still in, the old solanoid had a starter button I had been having problems and found that the only way to start it was using the button but was hit and miss as it was damaged around the button.
Ive checked all the wiring with the wiring diagram thought it might be the ignition switch but as the new solanoid is clicking it must be ok.
as you say I will check with the meter that power is coming out the other side to the starter motor, I'm thinking it could be a duff solanoid might put the old one back and try that before buying another one.
Thanks again electrics are always frustrating!
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
Mimosa looks good with chestnut carpets, do they do chestnut hoods?
db
I think they probably do something near chestnut, I bought a new black hood 12 months ago so not an option at this time.
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Hi I bought a new starter solanoid off eBay was listed for Land Rover, triumph etc.
Fitting it today it has an extra spade terminal sited directly under the starter signal spade, on the listing it shows the extra terminal as power while starting.
as it's wired now with nothing going to this extra terminal it just clicks starter not engaging.
I have messaged the seller today he asked for a photo of the old solanoid but not had any further response.
any ideas?
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2 minutes ago, Ian Faulds said:
Love it. What's say gear are you using?
De Vilbiss starting line gravity fed gun and 2 k paint, the colour is mimosa yellow, not standard for the herald but I like it and think it will look good with a new black hood and alloy mini lights.
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31 minutes ago, Paul H said:
Hi I have JBW “minilites” and changed the studs to Freelander. Check out my link on how to upgrade
Paul
Thanks Paul that helps a lot.
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Hi I'm about to purchase a set of alloy mini lights 13x5.5 for my Herald 13/60, It has standard Spring setup what size tyres would be recommended.
I have read somewhere that it will need longer studs and LR Freelander studs are ideal, what thread would these be as the wheels come with nuts and want to make sure they are the right thread.
cheers from a newbie to the forum.
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Hi new to the forum.
currently restoring a 1970 13/60 Herald convertible most of the welding is finished floor pans and the usual rot spots!
The project came to a stop because of health issues but thankfully I'm on the road to recovery and started doing some light jobs, cleaning parts ready for the re build.
I have the bonnet, boot and doors all painted in top coat and will finish the rest when I up to full fitness, my goal is to have it done for Spring next year, I said that last year lol.
I need some advice and hopefully you guys can help.
attached a couple of photos.
Vittess ally bumpers
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
I've been trying to take out deep scratches in my ally bumpers, do they have a lacquer coating on them?