Nigel Clark
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Posts posted by Nigel Clark
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18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
I've used similar, purchased from Halfords.
Nigel
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I would suggest carefully drilling a small hole at the end of the crack.
Haha, Paul beat me by seconds!
Nigel
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I would do as the supplier suggests, give it 2-300 miles and see if it settles down. If it doesn't, get back to the supplier.
Nigel
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The right type of LED headlight bulb should meet MoT requirements, including correct dip pattern for RHD. I've fitted headlights from this helpful company to my TR6:
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs
Relays aren't necessary since LEDs use less current and are less voltage sensitive than traditional tungsten or halogen bulbs.
Nigel
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21 minutes ago, johny said:
Single rail and 3 rail levers are not interchangeable. In both cases the OD version has a hole drilled length ways from the end with an exit hole a short distance down so the wiring can get to the knob switch. In all other respects OD and non OD are the same so if you want a remote switch the latter will work and is easier/cheaper to source like this 1500 Spitfire one on ebay...
As Johnny says, the gear levers aren't interchangeable. However, I believe the top cover, remote linkage and lever can be swapped over from the earlier box to the later one. Someone more experienced here may be able to confirm.
You also need to consider the overall length of the gearbox and overdrive assembly with J-type installed. Will the propshaft need to be shortened, and will the mount under the overdrive need to be modified??
I fitted a Dolomite 1850 box with J-type OD to my GT6. It required the very rare shorter OD adapter plate from a late Spit Mk4, a shortened main shaft for the gearbox and a homemade custom mounting plate for the overdrive.
You could avoid the rare Mk4 OD adapter and shortened main shaft by chopping the propshaft, cutting the transmission tunnel and making a new rear mount under the overdrive.... It's a can of worms.
Nigel
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Here you are:
https://www.radialequity.com/portfolio
Click on the Moss and Rimmers box to see more about the acquisition of both companies by Radial Equity. There's a discussion running about this on the TR Register forum.
Nigel
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Could it be a non-standard exhaust bracket that's been flattened?
Nigel
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41 minutes ago, trigolf said:
I seem to recall that Nigel Clark has fitted a prefabicated plastic 2 piece to gearbox cover to his TR6 recently? I think he featured it's installation in Practical Classics mag recently?
Yes, I fitted this split cover from Racestorations to my TR6:
It's proved very useful for accessing the speedo angle drive and topping up gearbox oil.
As far as I know, there is no commercially available split tunnel for the GT6. However, it wouldn't be difficult to modify a glass fibre tunnel with a hatch for the angle drive and hole with large rubber bung for topping up the oil.
Cutting the tunnel in two just aft of the H-frame may also be possible, but the front part would need the addition of a flange on its rear edge, onto which the rear part could mount and seal
Nigel
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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
My current Z3 is my first BMW, and dating from 1998 doesn't suffer from the same problems that more modern versions do eg loads of electronics and sensors. Sadly there's not the same network of parts suppliers that Triumphs have, so spare parts usually involve going straight to BMW and paying over the odds even for small parts such as nuts and bolts - even provided you can identify the spare part required as firstly there are dozens of variations of any model (front springs differ depending on engine configuration and car spec, for example) and secondly there are no exploded diagrams as on some of our more helpful Triumph suppliers' sites, nor any 'home maintenance' manuals, even the Haynes manual applies to many models and not just the Z3. We really are spoiled with our cars for both good suppliers and good home-maintenance manuals by the dozen.
I've had a range of E36 and E46 cars, and a Z3 1.9. All good cars and I found most spares were available as decent quality pattern parts, with no need to pay extortionate genuine BMW prices. I always look out for Meyle or Febi branded spares for brakes and suspension, Bosch for electrics and filters, Gates for drive belts.
Nigel
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34 minutes ago, Straightsix said:
Dare I say I’m quite passionate about my 2005 e46 300d Touring…….I’ll get my coat.
Great car! I'm enjoying my 2000 E46 330Ci coupe. BMW make the kind of cars Triumph would be making today, had the company survived.
Nigel
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28 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
M.
I used SilentCoat sound and heat deadening inside the tunnel, buy a pack on Fleabay. Comes with a sticky side, which is STICKY!
I also put it on the bulkhead which seals holes through to the engine bay.
Having bought far too much I did the floor and door panels. I can't say I noticed much difference, but on the tunnel and bulk head, yes!
Here is one of many
Silent Coat Sound Deadening 2mm Compact 10 Sheets Pack Car Van Damping Mat | eBay
Doug
I have used similar self adhesive sound deadening sheets from eBay on my GT6 and TR6.
It's sticks well and reduces sound and heat transmission to the cabin. I've no idea if the more expensive types e.g. Dynamat are any more effective.
Nigel
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You have the semi sport back box as shown in johny's post:
On 28/03/2024 at 18:41, johny said:Unfortunately it looks to be made more difficult by the design of the the sports unit as its inlet pipe seems to be straight instead of having the dog leg of the original. Cant believe how theyve got it so wrong although I see its the same one sold for both Mk2 and 3 while the original is different for each model...
I have had the same on my GT6 Mk3 for many years. Yours is too high on the right of the car because the present mounting arrangement on the tail pipes is too short. The correct mount is a rubber strap, attached to a bracket under the boot floor. The correct mount will level up the silencer box and give more clearance between the tail pipes and the lip on the rear valance. The rubber strap is part number 158575 on the diagram johnny posted.
The lack of a mounting on the other end of the semi sport box has never been a problem on my car. Fit the correct mounting strap to the tail pipes and all should be well.
Nigel
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Before reassembly, Remember to check that the cylinder head surface is perfectly flat. If the head is warped, it will need a light skim, or the new gasket won't last long.
The pushrod side of the gasket is prone to oil leaks. I always fit the new gasket with a smear of sealant along this edge. Reinzosil is very effective.
Nigel
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A couple of tips when refitting the head studs...
Always make sure the threads in the block are clean, and fit the studs only finger tight in the block. Over tightening the studs can raise the block surface around the stud holes, causing the head gasket to leak.
Nigel
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There's no need for the expense of ARP studs on a road going engine.
If the existing studs are in good condition, without worn threads, they can be reused. If in doubt, fit new original style studs. It's a good idea to fit new nuts in case of wear, they're not expensive.
Whatever you decide about studs and nuts, make certain to use the correct washers beneath each nut. Ordinary washers can compress and spread under the torque required for the cylinder head.
Nigel
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The labour rate of £40/hour is more than reasonable. After paying for body repairs, £5k including labour, materials and vat is fair for the respray in my experience. Prices for classic body restoration work can vary a lot, depending on quality of work, location, problems discovered along the way and many other factors. This means it's difficult to give a definitive answer to your question.
Nigel
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If the speedo needle was flickering for a while then stopped all together, it's quite likely the angle drive on the output from the overdrive has failed.
You can test the cable and speedo head using an electric drill running anti clockwise. Disconnect the cable from the angle drive and attach the still chuck to the end of the inner cable.
Nigel
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I've used the first of the two splitters Doug shows for many years.... It hasn't failed yet!
Nigel
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I also rate the club shop aerosol paints. They're a good colour match, unless the original paint has faded of course.
Nigel
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I used Mev Spares to get hard to find track rod ends for my Scimitar GTE. He was helpful and knowledgeable, supplying good quality versions of the correct parts at a reasonable price.
I've also used ANG, good service too. Fitchetts and Paddocks have been good and I wouldn't hesitate to buy parts from any of the above.
Nigel
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16 minutes ago, Taggart65 said:
I've already got a fairly long front silencer fitted between the chassis rails on the system that's on the car now , I was going to try and leave that in place
Been researching online and some people are saying the semi-sports is louder than the sports
I would agree it's a good idea to keep the front silencer. Personally, I've never heard it said that the semi sports silencer is louder than the wheelbarrow setup.
Nigel
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Yes, you will need to drill holes in the boot floor or inner rear valance to take brackets for the hanging straps on the rear of each silencer.
Be aware, once settled in, these twin box 'wheelbarrow' systems are very loud, so much so that some find them hard to live with for any lengthy journey. For a sportier exhaust sound without a noise induced headache, I prefer the Bells semi sport rear silencer, with a small front silencer between the chassis rails under the prop shaft.
Nigel
Spark plug torque (how much)
in Engine
Posted
It may be worth using a torque wrench when fitting plugs to alloy cylinder heads, like the Dolomite Sprint, 1850 or TR7, to reduce the risk of stripping threads. But for cast iron heads, as Andrew says, just tighten and feel the washer spread.
Nigel