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Jonah
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Posts posted by Jonah
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Thanks Colin
i read the other thread and it seems that I’ll need to cut the sill, pull it out and fill the gap......sounds straightforward!!
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It will have been the outer edge that I took as a line for installation, I continued it from the B post to the A post assuming it to be right, the danger of making assumptions I guess
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Hello
One of the jobs on my snagging list following the restoration of my Mk3 Spitfire was door alignment. The os door is now pretty good but the ns door is a problem
the door kicks out at bottom progressively getting worse towards the B post, Ive removed the bottom hinge and the striker plate but it still kicks out
the sill was replaced on the ns but the installation followed the original line (which could have been incorrect originally). The door aligns well at the top of the B post
Any suggestions welcome please
best Julian
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Thanks very much John, I’ll get a new jack and investigate making cribbbng
my trolley jack will reach 380mm and is ok for getting a wheel off, I’ll look for something with a higher reach
best Julian
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I’ve been mulling over whether to fabricate a steel frame the width of the car to fit across the chassis that could be lifted by the crane using chains
my problem is that my trolley jack will only just about get the wheels off the ground
space is a premium also so I guess I could sell the crane and invest in a better hydraulic lifter of some sort
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Thanks Pete, I’ll do it tomorrow. I have axle stands but struggle to lift the car high enough to get good space underneath.
i have a 2 tonne engine crane and have been trying to come up with a way of lifting the car safety onto ramps to get access to the chassis.
When I had the body off I used Rust buster epoxy made in laurel green on the chassis, but in many places it’s peeling off, so dark green hammerite beckons if I can get underneath
best Julian
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I quite like the keyhole surgery idea as getting the car raised high enough for me to get underneath safely will be a challenge with a small trolley jack
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Pete I glibly said I’d check the gearbox oil today and then as I’ve never checked it since filling the gearbox before the body went on I realised..........
how do I do this without taking out the tunnel etc?
is there a straightforward way to do this?
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Colin when I set out to restore ‘Wreckie’ I was full of enthusiasm to fulfill a lifetime ambition. I hadn’t bargained for over 40 years of Barney Bodger and a previous owner who was a genius with filler, and concrete in black plastic bags!
this was such a daunting project for when I started I had no real tools and no knowledge, there have been highs and lows but I wouldn’t change a thing, I’ve loved it
there will be more threads from me to tap into the wealth of knowledge you guys have as I tackle my ‘snagging list’, door gaps, window glass gaps..................
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Thanks everyone for your reassurance!
ive just checked the relay wiring and the power connections were reversed, with the ignition on and in 3rd I can hear the relay kicking in when I switch on overdrive. The relay is quite loud and with carpets and sound proofing I can’t hear the relay.
when the hurricane stops I’ll take it for a test drive
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Thanks Pete
ill check the gearbox oil level tomorrow morning
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Thank you
ivd just tried and can’t hear the relay kicking in, and there’s no change in the ignition or oil warning lights when I turn on the of so an electrical fault looks likely
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Yes it was in the car when bought it 10 years ago and I’m embarrassed to say that I’ve only just finished the restoration work, business got in the way!
So it has been sitting idle for a long time, I’ll take it for a longer drive tomorrow and will hope for a bit of your luck
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Thanks Paul
i didn’t notice any discernible change in revs so I guess I’ll have to do some troubleshooting
best Julian
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Hello all
i took my Mk3 Spitfire for it’s first run of a few miles today to test among other things the overdrive operation. I’m not sure what I should have expected or heard when I flicked the switch in 3rd or 4th gear to know whether it’s working or not.
the solenoid was changed as part of the restoration and the system was checked electrically to be working.
Any guidance welcome
thanks Julian
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Doing a bit of Googling I found this:
In November 2018 the government updated the Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency guidance on maintaining roadworthiness, to the effect that tyres of 10 years of age or older should not be used on the front or steering axles of heavy goods vehicles as well as buses and coaches. ...7 Feb 2019https://www.gov.uk › speeches › tyr... -
I’ve run a few manufacturing business in my career and as we made our products more reliable to last longer we very effectively reduced our aftermarket spares and replacement product revenues.
im now quite cynical about many products where it seems sell or use by dates are designed by manufacturers to make us buy new, more quickly, i saw an advert the other day telling me that my bed is a danger to my back after 7 years, I slept well last night trying to remember in which decade my bed was changed!
I guess with tyres we’d hope that independent science would exist to give unbiased guidance on tyre life, I always thought that the MOT was a rigorous safety assessment test but I’m now not so sure
best Julian
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No worries at all Badwolf, this is great information for a novice like me
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Contemplated a coffee but the sun has been shining so a cold one in the hot tub (lockdown guilty purchase) was my place to think about tyres!
tyres on the drive fits my socially distanced working from home lifestyle and she who must be obeyed will be happy, thank you
best Julian
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16 hours ago, Julian Jones said:
Hello all, I took my Mk3 Spitfire to my local village garage to get the safety aspects of my restoration checked as they would do for an MOT.
the tyres look fine with plenty of tread, no uneven wear and no visible cracking but have been on the car since I bought it for restoration 10 years ago, I told the garage this but the advice was they’re fine.
my engineering brain tells me that rubber degrades over time both internally and externally, should I be concerned enough to change the tyres and ignore the advice?
thanks Julian
Thank you so much everyone, you’ve confirmed my anxiety so the tyres will be changed, do you have a recommended tyre manufacturer etc for the Spitfire?
on a wider point your sage advice raises concerns about garages advising customers that 10 year old tyres are safe in all respects
Best Julian
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Hello all, I took my Mk3 Spitfire to my local village garage to get the safety aspects of my restoration checked as they would do for an MOT.
the tyres look fine with plenty of tread, no uneven wear and no visible cracking but have been on the car since I bought it for restoration 10 years ago, I told the garage this but the advice was they’re fine.
my engineering brain tells me that rubber degrades over time both internally and externally, should I be concerned enough to change the tyres and ignore the advice?
thanks Julian
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Thanks Scrapman the I-/ gate makes sense in terms of how it appears, I’ll try the rotation and side movement test tomorrow
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Hi Nigel
thank you I’ll check and will let you know. I can’t wait to take it out for a long drive when I’ve finished working through my ‘snagging list’.
Do you know of a rechromer in the East Midlands that Gould work manic in my rear bumpers?
best Julian
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Hello, I didn’t get the chance to drive my Mk3 Spitfire before I restored it so I don’t know what good gear selection should feel like.
Now on a test drive I had to move the gear stick a long way over to the right to engage third gear, which seemed excessive travel
Could you please tell me if this the way gear selection should be?
i overhauled the remote selector as the original ball had disintegrated
many thanks Julian
Mk3 Spitfire Door Alignment
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
My worst problem is the near side, although the off side isn’t perfect. The sills came from Rimmers