Thanks both I’ll go down the voltmeter route, is there a preferred place to wire it in?
I’m guessing that there’s not much voltage drop within the loom
Is the logic that pressure or volts is a much more useful indication of dynamo and charging health than flow or amps?
I’ve tried to keep the car as original as possible and have avoided an alternator conversion
my goal here is to monitor the ability of the dynamo to supply power for the cars system, also there are no additional electrical load items fitted
Hello all, Has anyone fitted an ammeter gauge to a Mk3 Spitfire? My car has a dynamo and I’ve got a Smiths ammeter gauge ready to fit, I’m just not too sure about where in the loom to connect it
I don’t have the space to manoeuvre an engine crane to lift the gearbox and overdrive from inside the car so am thinking of erecting an overhead electric hoist
has anyone used one of these with a scaffolding pole fixed between the two garage walls?
im not sure about the tensile strength of the pole and am assuming the weight will be circa 200kgs
thanks Julian
Thanks Pete, would it be sensible to replace the synchros on all gears?
I’ll look into the mobile axle stands Clive, my problem has been getting a low profile trolley jack underneath to start with
I’m going to need some guidance I think once I’ve got the gearbox out as I haven’t done this before
Thank you Clive, ill skip the lifter idea, I’ve been searching for a safe way to lift the car so I can work underneath, I’ll keep researching!
julian
I’ve been thinking of buying a mobile lift/tilter from CJ Autos to raise the car, do you think it would be possible to remove the gearbox from below using this?
My Spitfire Mk3 gearbox crunches into second gear, it has a D type overdrive
I’m wondering if is this likely to be a synchro problem requiring replacement or could a clutch problem be the cause?
thanks in advance for any advice for a wishful thinker!
Pete you’re a star, that was an easy fix!
removed the shims and now no steering play at all
tyre pressures were 21psi so I’ve increased them to 27, now for a test drive
many thanks Julian
Pete
ive made some checks, the steering nut is tight on the shaft
the bushes are good, and the clamps are tight
the movement in the shaft transfers right down to the rack itself where the grease point is full of grease
ive attached a few pics that might help
btw the steering feels very heavy but never having driven a spitfire before that may be how it’s meant to be
i haven’t checked the adjustment of the collapsible joint yet
best Julian
Hello, I have a 69 Mk3 Spitfire. Do you know if there is an acceptable amount of steering wheel ‘play’, I have about 1inch either way?
thank you
julian
Hello, the hood frame on my 69 Mk3 Spitfire won’t ‘lock out’ on the near side below the second headstick I suspect it’s due to loose joints in the frame but I might be wrong
has anyone dealt with this problem?
the car has a new hood and has lever arm locks
thanks Julian
That’ll stick with me now just like the UB40 I use to lubricate nuts and bolts!
i blame it on a big thumb, a rubbish iPhone keypad and a need for speed!!!
The layout of holes and apertures is different although both accommodate the Mk3 handle mechanisms
i was wondering whether the width of doors altered by different model, but your answer I think is no. the run out on the os door along the sill to the B post progressively builds to 10mm, before I chop the sill to modify I thought I’d check the doors