Pbruce9393
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Pbruce9393 last won the day on September 19 2020
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About Pbruce9393
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Location
Aberdeen
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Cars Owned
1972 GT6 Mk3
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Hi Guys, You recently pointed me in the direction of the 3-way fuse box to cure my non-operational gauges. A clean & squeeze of the "green" fuse clips did the trick, but now I am faced with the rear lights not working along with some odd intermittent faults. While trying to track this down, I witnessed the middle fuse glowing red when the headlights were switched on, and smoke emanating from the fuse box. Time for a new fuse box !!! I have read the other articles relating to fuse box upgrades, and have a 10 way one ready to install, but I have one question I need help with. As the new box has a single busbar for the 12V feed, is there any reason for the permanent 12V any more ? I assume it was previously required for the parking lights, but can the green & purple circuits from the above diagram be served from the same ignition controlled feed & distributed through teh same fuse box ? The red would need to have it's own fuse (in-line ??) and teh white ignition wires connected together, but is there any reason this would not work ?? Thanks Peter
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Well - it is fixed ! Thanks for all the help & suggestions. Those of you who said it was the fuse box, please take a bow. Despite me bypassing the top fuse (in the 3-way fuse box) with 2 x crocodile clips & a piece of wire last night, all to no avail, that is what it was. Not just the fact that the fuse had blown, but as Pete Lewis suggested, a clean up with some emery paper & a squeeze together of the blades did the trick. And a new fuse, obviously. Fuses 2 & 3 are dead. My biggest mistake was thinking the fuse 1 was dead too, but I know now. Next little project will be a major tidy up of the wiring & a new diagram. Thanks again to all who helped. Peter
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Update : the speedo was a loose drive connection, so fixed now The 3- way fuse box appears disconnected. Top fuse was blown, but replacing it made no difference to anything checked the 8- way one - all good (12v)where something is connected wipers, indicators & hazard warning lights are also not working Rev counter is an electronic one & has a good earth at the back, so would suggest the live feed is missing All instrument lights (that actually have a bulb fitted) are working Next task will be to check live feeds to rev counter & voltage stabiliser. Tracing the wires in the rats nest behind the dashboard is a nightmare. Previous mods are very poor - very untidy, wrong colours crimped together, many disconnected / spare cores, etc, etc. Some are taped off & some are just cut, so it is almost impossible to figure out what was left dis before & which one is the new culprit ! But - will get there Peter
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Thanks for all the ideas. The fuse box has been replaced in the past as there is now an 8-way one behind the dashboard at the passenger side, albeit a long time ago, as it is quite a dated one. I did check the output side of all the fuses, and all registered 12V What I didn't do was to check the 3-way fuse box in the engine bay. I assumed that had been replaced by the 8-way one, but of course maybe it is still in operation in some shape or form. It does have an electronic tacho, so could be a linked failure of fuel & temp gauges if there is a missing live or earth From all the comments, you have convinced me that the speedo is almost certainly a separate fault It was a bright day yesterday, so I need to check the panel lights again, as I can't say if they were working or not I guess I also need to check other things to see what else is not working that I haven't noticed yet Thanks again & I will keep you posted on the outcome of further wire tracing & testing tonight. Peter
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I am confused. My GT6 gauges (speedo, rev counter, fuel gauge & temp gauge) were all working normally, until I recently replaced the gearbox tunnel with a new one. Now all of them are dead. I assume that I have accidentally pulled a wire off somewhere, but alas a PO has left the dashboard wiring in my car in a messy & non-standard state, and I cannot find any offending disconnected wires ( that weren’t there before). Despite an extensive search through the forum & various wiring diagrams, I cannot find any one reason why all of these would fail simultaneously. I would expect the Rev counter & speedo to fail individually, or the fuel/temp gauges to fail together, but not all four together. Can anyone advise if there is likely to be one single cause ( a disconnected earth, for example) of this, or am I looking for more than one fault ? Any pointers or suggestions will be a great help Thanks Peter
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Great - thank you Nigel
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That is great, thanks. Any chance you could provide the dimensions of the bracket itself as well please, including the height at the front & rear ? Peter
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Hi, I bought a GT6 Mk 3 last year, fitted with a 2500TC engine. I recently took the engine out for a re-build, and as part of the exercise the radiator had to come out too. It was at that point I realised that the radiator brackets were actually welded to the chassis, not bolted to the (non-existent) brackets that are supposed to be there. I would like to re-install brackets before the radiator goes back in, but can anyone advise the exact position / dimensions of where these brackets need to be. I believe that where the welds are is about right, and that there should be room for a little height increase (it was level with the bottom of the thermostat casing) but I am concerned that new brackets may lift the radiator too high, causing it to foul on the bonnet when closed. If I move it back "down the slope" a little it will reduce the height, but there is not much room to do that because of the engine / fan. Any advise on the positioning of these brackets will be most welcome. Also - any ideas if / where new ready made brackets may be available ? At all the usual suppliers they appear to be "no longer available". Peter
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Both wires for the horn are white !!! I also have numerous "pairs" of pink wires going to various switches I think a serious re-wire job is required in the longer term
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There is only one earth wire attached - for the horn. The blue & white ones are in the background & are not attached
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I have beared the cold & checked tonight. Well done guys. That is exactly what it is. It works if pushed in first (which requires a second hand to push against due to precarious installation) as suggested. thanks again for clearing the mystery up Peter
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A trip counter reset ! I didn’t check that. I’ll have a look tomorrow & see if that is it. Thanks
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Hi, I’ve been trying to tidy up the dashboard wiring in my GT6, as previous work appears to be a bit haphazard to say the least. There are no parcel shelves fitted, only blank panels to conceal the rats nest of wiring behind. I have already found what turned out to be an ignition cut off switch hanging loose by cable tie behind the passenger side, and I also have this at the drivers side. It is some sort of rotary adjuster for something, but what ? It connects to a metal tube, which disappears into the back of the driver side dashboard. Without removing the facia, it is impossible to see where it goes to. At first I thought about it being a dimmer for the gauges, but it appears to do nothing when “adjusted”. Any ideas ?
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That’s it all back together again & all gears back in action. As you guys predicted, the reverse circlip was the difficult bit, and I had bits left over. The red & white washers did not fit on the gearstick at all, but the hole at the base of the gearstick looked good. Thanks again for all your help & advice. Peter
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Got it all out today. This is all that was there.........only one (almost disintegrated) washer, and no bottom bush at all. Now awaiting the arrival of the kit. Peter