nicrguy1966

I'm trying to, but you can guarantee that I haven't taken a photo of something that I've forgotten where it went! It doesn't help that my phone refuses to unlock when I have greasy fingers! I need to set up facial recognition!

So far, I'd say it was interesting more than fun. If there is any improvement at all in how the car drives, it will be very satisfying. At the moment I'm preparing myself for the big step of actually removing the timing chain, and trusting myself to be able to put it all back together again! So far, I've been confident that everything I've done was reversible if I needed to drive to a mechanic!

I only started down this route based on advice that incorrect cam timing could be the cause of my odd ignition timing. Do you have other explanations for my need to have very advanced ignition timing? I am very open to new ideas.

I quite literally couldn't have done this job without the help I've received from this forum. From the start, identifying that cam timing could cause off ignition timing, to providing a link to a download of the WSM to find the cam balance point, to tricks on how to removing the crank nut, and finally, how to get to the crank cog. So many times I'd have been forced to give up and take the car to a mechanic. I can't stress how grateful I am for all the help offered.

That sounds like a quarter of a tooth, how is it "less than 1/4 tooth"? Not that I'm trying for perfection, just to make my ignition timing "normal" (and maybe increase HP a little).

Seems fine. The engine was reconditioned about 15 years ago, so most things are in fairly good condition. I'm assuming the guys that rebuilt the engine got the cam timing wrong.

1st time for me too! I've done "big jobs" like piston rings and bearings before, but this is far more delicate and fiddly than I'm used to.

Second answer to same post! Yes, 3 thou is very small, when I was turning the crank I basically had a gap in tappet 1 or 2 with the other closed, until I found the balance point and could get a 3 thou feeler gauge into both.

Yes I opened them to 40 as described in the WSM. What gap would you expect to see at the balance point? Sunday lunch is calling, and there will be wine, so although I'm happy to carry on chatting, I'll not be doing any more work on the car today.

The chain is still on, so no, the crank isn't at TDC now the cam is at the balance point. Now I'm wishing I'd loosened the cam sprocket before getting to this delicate point! I guess I'll be finding the balance point again as the cam is bound to move when I'm removing the bolts. Hindsight is a wonderful thing.

If I had one, I would! I'm following the workshop manual method of opening up the gaps on rockers 1 and 2 (when valves 12 and 11 are fully open), then setting the cam so both 1 & 2 have the same gap (3 thou in my case).

This is what the cam gear looks like when I've found the balance point. I'm thinking the cam timing mark is half a tooth from where it should be. So the next step is to remove the chain and set the cam to this position when the crank gear is at TDC? Am I understanding the process correctly? I'll wait for some replies before proceeding as this is the most important step.

Shim is off! (and I checked, the Haynes manual didn't say anything about taking it off it before removing the Woodruff key. Grrrr). I also realised that if I remove the Woodruff key, I'll have no way of turning the engine to do the rocket balance point measurement. The marks might be a tad off now I can see all 3 (crank, engine and cam), but nothing like the 6 degrees I think I found before taking everything apart. Maybe 1/4 tooth? Now to repeat the rocker measurement while I can see the marks to see if they are in the wrong place.

Thanks. I missed that when reading the manual! That's probably why I was having trouble!

I've bought a new seal and gasket. The tensioner looks as good as new.

It would have been nice if the Haynes manual had mentioned that! I've packed up for today, but something to try tomorrow.

That's exactly why I'm taking it all apart! From the rocking point, I'm fairly sure the cam timing is wrong, but the marks day it's correct, so I'll do another rocking point test and see where the lines are then (I've never seen the lines until this morning).

Enough grazed knuckles for today. I'm happy with the progress I've made. If there's a special trick to removing the Woodruff key, please let me know. Does it just slide forwards towards the front of the car, or does it also need to be lifted at the same time, or some other secret maneuver? I'll let it soak in WD40 and try again tomorrow.

If (when) I get the Woodruff key out, I will.

I'm having a little issue with the step "Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft nose with a pair of pliers". I've tried pliers and a small mole wrench and it hasn't budged at all. So I'm a stuck again for the minute.

Yes, after taking it all apart, I put the cover and crank pulley back on to set it to TDC (I had already set it to TDC before taking it apart, but when I removed the timing chain cover I discovered the cam was 180 degrees out. 50/50 chance, just my luck!)

Timing chain cover is off, and I can see the timing mark on the cam gear. Sadly it looks perfect! I'm not that surprised as the mechanic that I spoke to told me that whoever built the reconditioned engine would have put the timing marks on, so if he had the cam on the wrong place, the marks would be in the wrong place too.

It sounded crazy, but I tried it, and it worked! (After fixing the other end of the ring spanner to the chassis with cable ties just in case it decided to fly into the bonnet or windscreen!) The crank pulley bolt is off! Any other steps that are likely to be this difficult?

I asked my wife nicely this morning, and was told that I'll have to wait until she's done her morning exercises. I thought about suggesting that her morning exercise could be freeing a stuck bolt, but decided better. Soaking overnight with WD40 achieved nothing. Currently hammering the ring spanner, no movement yet. I wonder where I can get 1m of scaffolding pole?

Thanks for the warning.