Rockape

Thats a good point that had occurred to me . I read here somewhere that the trick is to dry off the offending area and then apply a light dusting of talcum powder - this will show where the leaks/tracks are. i should probably do this before dropping the oil again…..!

thanks all ..... pretty sure I haven't swapped the plugs around (not to say previous owner didn't do that!) I will drop the oil (again !!) and have a closer look at the threads, and also check for cracks in the case. If I can't find anything untoward, I will get some Hylomar on and see if that does the trick. Need to check the speedo seal I guess..... Those decent CJ Autos ramps are becoming more and more attractive !

Right - so now the car is on the road -I turn my attention to reducing the oil drips. I have a drip of gearbox oil from the drain plug - having just put in new oil , I can see that’s what it is and I can see a small bead of oil on the plug itself. Have tried to simply tighten it (i put some PTFE tape on the plug , but that is really a thread lubricant not a seal) so - next step - drain the oil out, and try the plug without the tape? Or is there a thread sealant product that would be good for this application? I also have what might be a small weep at the speedometer connection - but want to eliminate the oil drip from the plug before going on to the next one ! thanks!

Good idea - i have some large timbers from a project 12”x6” x 48” seriously solid bits of wood….they would do the same job

I think this going to be my preferred option….parking the car on the ramps is a good idea too

I completely agree - I never get under a car with just a jack - makes me nervous just looking at it ….. i was told that breeze blocks don’t help much either as they can easily shatter the CJ Auto jacks look to be the best bet at the moment

I used a large syringe to get the oil in….the one I have to ballast my model railway track. Need a new one now !

More good ideas. its a balance between safety, ease of use and access gained. I used the jack and stands for the oil change - it’s “ok” but a bit of a faff. Ramps - super easy and quick - but problems with clearance i might bite the bullet and get some hydraulic jack/ramps….

Thanks for the suggestions i have trolley jack and axle stands (and wheel chocks) - changed the gearbox oil yesterday - and now I have clean gear oil on the drip tray. Grrrrr….

So - I need to crawl around under the car looking for leaks etc. and reckon a decent set of ramps should be in the tool kit. The front of the car is pretty low and am concerned that I could easily buy something that won’t fit. I guess I could buy something and return if no good? - bit thought I would see if anyone has any suggestions/recommendations first. cheers

Is there a classic car GL4 oil. ? Or are they all much of a muchness…..?

Time to put new oil in the engine and gearbox of the Spitfire (Mk3, 1300…..4 speed box..no overdrive or syncromesh on 1st) what oil should I be using? thanks

Will keep you posted…..

Well….the glass is in. Eventually went to Nationwide Windscreens. The technician that came out has been fitting auto glass for 30 years and gets assigned all the classic car jobs in his area. With only a modicum of help from me, job done! of course the “chrome” trim doesn’t fit neatly in the gasket, so am looking at some alternatives to finish off that cosmetic job…. next up ….adjust the drivers door window so it actually touches the seal..

Can’t see any marks but pretty sure it is not laminated - looking edge on there is no sign of that. one curious thing though - along one li g edge there are four equally spaced dimples in the glass - presumably part of the manufacturing process? They are hidden by the gasket.

Thanks …. will give it a go - !!

Further to the issue of re-fitting the glass to the hard top , it seems that glass is unobtanium, so if it were to break , this would be a Bad Thing. Perhaps the risk could be reduced by sticking duct tape to both sides of the glass to give it some extra strength? Avoiding the rubber gasket area obviously - but it seems to me this could add quite a bit of strength…. what do you think?

Fitting the rear window to a Mk3 Spitfire hardtop having finally found the correct gasket, and fitting the top, now to fit the glass. one thread I have seen says to fit the gasket to the glass, then offer-up, with some string to pull the gasket into shaoe inside the car. i was thinking fit the gasket to the top, then offer the glass up and finish with the locking strip. has anyone done this and has advice ?

I have exactly the same issue. The replacement seal profile isn’t big/grippy enough to hold tight to the hardtop. Which product did you go for in the end and has it done the job. i am thinking to get the rear deck seal done, then put the hardtop on the car, and then fit the other seals with the top in-situ. Does that make sense? cheers

Thanks for all the tips - and the detailed description of the Bendix system. just off to get me spanners…. any tips on SM removal O need to know? is it - disconnect battery. disconnect lead to SM Undo the two (?) bolts withdraw SM from ring gear Cheerd

That is pretty much what happened today. I couldn’t move the engine with it in gear (thought for a minute I had somehow seized the engine) But three of us (with the car in 3rd) managed to free it off.

Thanks ….need to read and remind myself what a Bendix is…🤔 but here’s what happens when I come to start the car. after a long lay off, it just cranks. but then eventually it cranks, and then followed by a whirring noise. This is a clue that it’s about to fire - ( I assume would be due to a little bit of power from an ignition, and the Bendix disengaging - does that make any kind of sense?) Cleaning - I assume remove starter motor - inspect, clean and re-install - which shouldn’t be too big a job - LOL !

Have started and stopped the engine many times. went for a run in the Sun today. Stopped for coffee - started the car - clunk….just the relay closing. put the car in gear and with a bit of help got it to move and you could here the starter motor dis-engage. Turned the key and everything fine. so - why did the starter motor stick on? Is there a service one can do to find/eliminate this? mark

Well - the obvious answer is it will add the weight of the box when it arrived. joking aside - I agree….clearly it is adding a few kilograms . But the Spitfire weighs around 750 kg. 10kg of sound deadening will add about 1.5% to the weight of the vehicle. Compare this with the weight of a passenger ! unless you are building a machine for racing, I don’t think it’s an issue TBH.

Thanks Josef….i will have another look - maybe I didn’t have my head far enough into the footwell yesterday ! i note from your photos you have added the sound deadening stuff….i have done the same!