Pettifordo

Mine still has a spade connector mid point…..would a bullet connector be better ? Or should I just solder the spade connector together ?

I think I have found the problem with the ignition - a dodgy negative wire from the coil to the dizzy. The PO had fitted one that had those blue crimp spade connectors. Having determined that the strange intermittent issue I was having with the Accuspark was probably connected to a dodgy Earth connection - thanks @Josef I just soldered on 2 new connectors and took her for a drive - runs very nicely. That probably means I didn’t need the following :- 1) Accuspark 2) Coil 3) Buy Colortune to check mixture 4) Buy timing light to check timing 5) I also suspect I didn’t need a new dizzy cap or rotor arm 🤞🤞

Thanks - I will check all the connections again - I think I will replace the earth wire to the coil as it has those dodgy blue connectors 😱

I fitted the Accuspark and it worked…..then didn’t work….then worked When it didn’t work the engine was struggling to even turn over and the rev counter was going bonkers….. Anyone got any ideas what could be going wrong ? Also what does the cloth covered wire in the dizzy do ? It was under the condenser - so I still need it ?

Oops - I will have do it again !

What does this sound like ?

Anyone fitted these “stealth” electronic points ? It says it replace points and condenser and looks super easy to fit. My memory of EI from my youth is red or silver boxes with cooling fins and lots of wires 🤣 Do these work well 🧐 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180871977552?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=aceielwaRfy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=zw41TUiKQsC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I believe that “spec” is 10 Degrees Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC). Would your 4 degrees be making it 14 or 6 ? I assume the vacuum advance is what takes it from the 10 degrees at tick over to the 22-26 Degrees needed at 3200 ? Does this happen via electronics if you have electronic ignition or does the vacuum advance still move the dizzy ? I ask as I’m thinking that electronic ignition will be my next “modification”. Fascinating how these systems all work - this afternoon will be spent with a timing light and a colour tune spark plug - hours of fun 🤓🤓

I’m think it is probably the rotor arm where the plastic has cracked ? Would that cause a short ? It’s all quiet finely balanced isn’t it. With the new coil / dizzy cap and rotor arm, should I check the timing again as I tune up or focus on the carb mix ? The car runs ok but seems a bit “flat” when you accelerate - that could just be “old” car 🤓🤓

Ok - will put fuel pump and required tools on the boot so that I can do a running repair

I got Intermotor ones as this was the brand that the Club supplied with the service kit I bought (for the wrong car 🤣🤣🤣) Just not sure if I should replace the fuel pump anyway - part of me want to take the car out to see if it is fixed now and it was never the fuel pump and part of me doesn’t want to be broken down again if the fuel pump is the issue 🤔🤔 I guess I could take a new fuel pump and tools required to change with me for a few runs and change at the side of the road if needed ? It is on the “safe side” of the car 🧐

Yes the points and condenser are new (well 200 miles since resto new)

I took my Triumph Spitfire 1500 (1980) out for a spin on Saturday - the first 15 miles were great - top down zipping along. Then we stopped to discuss where next and the car stalled. After a few turns it started but was misfiring under load. It ran for another few miles - stopped again - this was repeated 4-5 times - I was suspecting the fuel pump. Eventually it just wouldn’t start and I got towed home 😩 Checked the car the next day and discovered no spark so I re-gapped the points (nothing). I had used the coil that came with the car before resto so I replace this (nothing). I had also used the dizzy cap and rotor arm from pre-resto (I had bought new ones but had purchased for a Mark IV not 1500 as this was an early club purchase). I checked the dizzy / rotor arm and they look ok but as they were the last thing between the spark and the spark plug I replace them and she roared into life !! For my education - how can you tell if a dizzy cap / rotor arm are faulty by looking at them ? Or do you just check for a spark and then figure out if it is the lead or the dizzy cap / rotor arm ? This weekend I plan to replace the fuel pump as well as the level of fuel in the fuel filter seems a bit low - which is why I thought it was the fuel pump to start with.

Anyone have tips for how to figure out what colour my car is ? (And don’t say Green 🤣🤣🤣). It was resprayed by a PO to a metallic British Racing Green and I’ve now decided that most of it is ok, so I would like to find the colour so I can buy some rattle cans….. I did buy some “Dark British Racing Green GN29” which I have used to hand paint the bulk head and the inside of the bonnet. It is darker than the paint on it. I also purchased some HAM paint but this is too light. Thanks

What a great idea - and so simple - sounds like hours of full !!

Door Hanging Tips Does anyone have any door hanging tips ? I have so far been shutting the door and then tightening the front door nuts - that seems to work ok but it does mean the door need a good slam to shut as the door rests on the door catch. Should I pack the door catch with something so I tighten them a bit higher ? Any other tips ? Seats are in and looking good. Took my daughter out for a Boxing Day spin and let her have a drive (not sure she is a classic car convert 😩😩)

Just checked what I bought and it is an 82c thermostat, so wrong for the car 😩😩 Do you think it will damage things to leave it as it is ? Or should I swap ASAP ?

Yep standard rad - guess it is possible that the new thermostat is wrong ?

It was a new one so hopefully ok - I will get the heater sorted and then measure with a thermometer - better to be too cold than too warm 👍

I replaced the pipe under the manifold and cleaned the adaptor (took it all to pieces). I’ve bought some rad cleaner and a new heater value - let’s see if that does the trick 👍 The car is running at just over a quarter on the temp gauge so I’m thinking the main rad must be ok. I think I will attached a hose pipe to the inlet for the heater and use this after popping in the rad cleaner for a bit - hopefully blast out any c***

Can you get air locks ? What would be the most effective way to clean it ? The value going in was pretty full of crud - but I did clean it up - perhaps a new one of those would be a sensible next step ?

We made it to the club - 90 miles round trip. All seems to be ok - no obvious leaks. Gear lever makes an annoying rattle at about 50 mph and if you don’t get it into 3rd will a good shove, then it pops out of gear which is a bit shocking. To answer @AlanT question about how it is driving the car - I have to say it will take some time to love it like it did. It was basically cold (the heater is really bad) and noisy. Today I was alive to every rattle being the first signs of some catastrophic failure about to happen !!! I enjoyed 2 or 3 moments when the car felt good - but generally just terrified it was going to breakdown 🤣🤣🤣 I’m sure in the summer with the roof down it will be as I remember it.

Same thing in my book 🤣🤣🤣

The idea was to clear out any c*** and also lube up the channel so it fits home well....but now you mention it this might not be such a good plan........perhaps I will just skip to the last part and hit it hard 🙂

I like that idea - I will add to my plan 🙂