Pettifordo

Hoping to compete the engine rebuilt and paint the inside of the tub this week - I’ve also almost completed the renovation of the front valance (pic to follow). Chap coming to quote on respray on Saturday ! Now the timing chain cover bolt holes have been helicoiled (what a great idea) I can complete all that front end of the engine. Clutch is almost on - just need the 1/4 Allen key from eBay (why use Allen bolts !!)

Not unless they introduce a Spin Bike class 👍🤣🤣

Yes it was perfect and gave me something the practice on before starting to drill my engine block !! Full test of the spin bike not until this morning so brownie points not yet in the bag !

All bolt holes helicoiled with 5/16 threads and depths measured on them all to make sure bolts not too long. Just waiting for new gasket so I can fit timing cover on. By a lucky coincidence my wife’s exercise bike broke yesterday and what needed to fix it was an M10 helicoil so I didn’t need to send that set back. You wait 54 years for a helicoil to come along and then you need 2 in 1 day 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for everyone’s help

These are the bolts that David Manners supplied - are they short enough ? https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-SH605071?selectedcurrency=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwq5-WBhB7EiwAl-HEku-6mmw2gArxPp8_V1etkix6av3mTWJjknCuzv1wC_z-zFc8aDmAExoCezUQAvD_BwE

Ok - I’ve ordered the 5/16 Helicoil now - sounds like a better option 👍

You have all shamed me into do this right, so I have purchased a helicoil for a M10 bolt. 👍👍

Thanks everyone - I didn’t realise that it was Aluminium ! With the other bolts all tight do you think it would be OK with this bolt ?

I put the timing chain cover on today for my 1500 Spitfire and the bottom bolt into the engine block seems to have a stripped thread so will not tighten up (I tried a couple of bolts so issues is with the block) Everything else does up nice and tight. Any ideas how to fix this kind of problem ? I’ve never had the issue before 🧐🧐 Can you tap the hole and use a slightly larger bolt ? In my younger days I would have purchased some instant gasket and allied liberally 🤣🤣🤣 But that doesn’t seem right now 😝😝

Sums me up quite nicely ! Thanks @Pete Lewis

So I decided to have a go at repairing the rust in the front valance instead of buying a new one - my welding skills would not have been up to this 8 months ago - I’m quite pleased with the results - a bit of P38 and it will look perfect 🙂 Also finished painting the underside of the car - seam sealer and black paint do a good job of hiding my welding 🙂 Now on with the engine and gearbox assembly.

I have a resto manual and the hayes manual which I do read but they always seem very brief……. Thanks for your answer.

Thanks everyone

I was looking for some advice about how to fit the clutch fork using the tolerance ring and pin - is it as simple as popping in the TR and then tapping the pin in from the top ? Also how do you replace the Thrust Bearing (I’ve never done that job). it also seems like the rod that fits into the clutch cylinder can be adjusted - how can I tell the right length for this ? Note - if this question seems strange, I purchased the car already taken apart, so I’m putting stuff back together without having seen what it was like before - I have some resto guides and Hayes but they often aren’t very clear and seem to assume you took it apart in the first place 🤣🤣🤣

It seems that the distributor cap be slotted into the cam drive so that the rotor arm is pointing in one of two directions - is their a “right” way and how can I tell if the rotor arm is pointing in the right direction ? I assume that I first get the engine to TDC…..and that at this point the rotor arm should be pointing in a specific direction ?

I thought leaving these out would make the respray better as I can get the bulkhead done……but I’m guessing that can be done as long as I done hook up all the wiring and heater hoses ?

@AlanT This looks amazing - let me know if you ever want to sell it 👍

Just had a friend round to look at progress and we started to discuss the order of putting the car back together. I had planned the following :- 1) Put tub and bonnet on the chassis 2) Once panels all aligned, send for respray (or do it myself) 3) Reassemble Engine and Attach gear box 4) Put engine in car and attach water hoses / rad / petrol tank 5) Recommission electrics 6) Do interior / hood / bumpers Does that seem like a sensible order or should the engine go in before putting the tub / bonnet ?

I’ve already purchased the Waxoyl so will have to go with that 🧐 Good point on welding and Waxoyl. I didn’t drill any additional holes and it was a really frustrating job with the Waxoyl pump getting clogged up and Waxoyl everywhere. Hopefully the next owner will benefit from it as I don’t intend to get it wet….ever !!

I’ve already purchased the Waxoyl so will have to go with that 🧐 Good point on welding and Waxoyl. I was thinking rubber bungs.

I’m going to Waxoyl my Chassis which is currently without the body. I was toying with drilling holes every 12” so I can get good coverage inside and then filling the holes up. Anyone else done similar ?

Good point - will just do the chassis at this point

@Neil Clark Yes I already have my crack team picked out (including a friend with an Engine Hoist 👍👍 I‘’m concerned that my welding will have “moved” the mounting points (I did brace the tub but I had to replace the rear suspension tunnel 😩). I can see if needing some “fettling” 🤣

Does anyone have any tips for putting the tub back on the chassis ? I’ve replaced the floors and inner sills but I haven’t fitted the cross members or welded up the front seam of the floor to the bulk head to give me some “play” when I get it back together. I will need to drill a hole for the outer front mounting bolts and the 4 bolts for the cross members. What is the best way to get the new holes in the right place ? I bought the mounting bolt package from Rimmer Bros but I can’t see a picture of where all the bolts / rubber washers and shims go….any good source for that ?

That looks great @AlanT - gives me something to aim for