DanielH

I am planning to insert the valve guides into the cylinder head tomorrow. Question: the new guides have different lengths: * short: 2,031" * long: 2,256" Which are for the exhaust valves, which for the intake valves? I am planning to use our household oven while the wife is away, to heat up the cyl. head. Is there anything I should know before I press them into the bores? thanks again 🙂

Good evening 🙂 just a quick update. The new "blue printed" oil pump has arrived, all clearances are really tight! Installed the piston rings per the guide. Arranged them in their grooves in such a way that they are in different sectors. Tightening everything down per the handbook. For my ease of mind I applied some locking paint:

Hello Johny, yeah, thats my concern, too. I've opened the compression ring gaps to 0.25 to 0.30mm.

Ok, a gentleman from another forum pointed me to this:

Morning, I found these schematics here: https://www.rlengines.com/tech/Common_Ring_Types.pdf It appears that the first ring is a "Torsional Twist Compression" ring, the second is a "step-scraper compression" ring.

Morning, here's a sketch of the orientation and order of the rings, which I _believe_ is right: Happy for your input 🙂

Good evening 🙂 I've got a couple of questions regarding the piston rings. a) Order the country pistons come with 3 grooves, which I am counting from the _top_ 1, 2, 3. 1 and 2 take the compressions rings 3 takes the oil ring triples. I can easily identify the order and orientation of the oil ring triples (I hope so...) I find the rings for grooves 1 and 2 problematic, because the don't have a TOP mark, only a part number is echted. Groove 1: the ring which is supposed to go into this groove has the chamfer INSIDE-TOP Groove 2: the ring has the chamfer on the OUTSIDE - BOTTOM Is the order and orientation correct?? b) Gap I've measured these gaps: 1, 2 groove/ring (compression): 0,20-0,25mm 3 groove/ring (oil): 0,25mm (the curled oil ring was impossible to measure...) The manufacturer specs says (for 75mm bore??): 1, 2 groove/ring (compression): 0,25mm 3 groove/ring (oil): 0,20mm So, am I on the safe side?? greetings 🙂

It seems that my package was moved last Monday...YAY...But it is still in UK.... Anyway, Dave has offered to send me another clutch with UPS. He really is a generous man!

Hi there, you won't believe it, but it is true: my parcel containing the relined overdrive clutch is still stuck somewhere in the royal mail export pipeline between UK and Germany due to the security breach in early January 😞 And guess what: the gentleman who dispatched the parts doesn't really bother. As a foreigner I cannot file a claim with RM. It has been 4 weeks since David has dispatched my overdrive clutch. The tracking status has not changed since he dropped off the parcel at the post office there in Rugby. How would you deal with that? greetings Daniel

Evening! I've got a question regarding the engine's rear plate. When I took mine apart I noticed something strange: a pin was setting in the rear plate, and that pin gently pressed against the fly wheel. The foto below shows the pin and the wear mark on the rear side of the fly wheel. You can see that the face of the pin is blank and worn from the sliding surface of the fly wheel. The pin was somehow loose and just sat there in his hole. Anybody has got an idea what happened here? thanks 🙂

While I am at it... would you recommend this head gasket? https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/head-gasket-set-non-recessed-mk11111-2 thanks a lot 🙂

Another question regarding the valve guides: Are these the correct ones for my mk2? https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/valve-guide-inlet-mkiiiii-2 https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/valve-guide-exhaust-mkiiiii-2 Also, my old exhaust guides had seals...are they required or can I leave them away? thank you 🙂

Morning, quick question: which of these exhaust valve should I order? a) https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/exhaust-valve-unleaded-mk2149658 b) https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/exhaust-valve-unleaded-2 The exhaust valve which I've extracted from my engine have a dia of ca. 1.266". thank you 🙂

Evening, checked the main bearing clearance and end float today. Cleaned the surfaces, inserted the new main bearings, and 2 STD-size thrust washers, new main bearings and tightened the main bolts to spec. End float was: 0,2mm (spec: 0,157-0,203mm) Replaced them with a STD (0,09") and +5 (=0,095") thou thrust washer, which yielded this end float: 0,08mm Reduced the thickness slightly and achived an endplay of 0,160mm Resumed to check the bearing clearance. Removed the bearing caps and inserted plastigauge and tightened the bearing caps down to spec. Resulting widths were ranging between 2.0 and 2.5thou, which is in spec. If you guys won't come up with objections I'll get some proper assembly lube (was using WD40 for this task) and do the final assembly of the crankshaft. Greetings

Evening, I was checking my crankshaft before fitting it again. Which of these grooves are from the front oil seal? Can I tolerate that or should I sand them out? Then I noticed these wear marks on the timing chain gear: Is that ok? Or should I replace that? Thanks 🙂 Daniel

ok, just ordered the bush+pump from Chris. There goes the money.. 🤑

Somebody here mentioned a premium product: https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=217488RP Is this your recommendation? thanks 🙂

Hi there, had a look at the oil pump today. The endplate looks ok, very few marks: Took the 3 measurements per the handbook (in mm): 1) clearance inner rotor <-> outer rotor: 0.25-0.30 (should be < 0.254) 2) clearance other rotor <-> body: < 0.20 (should be < 0,254) 3) clearance inner rotor <-> end plate: 0.20 (should be < 0.102) Soooo, it appears that this oil pump is worn out. Question: is the quality of the oil pumps from the "usual suspects" good enough? thanks 🙂 Daniel

Evening all, while I am still waiting for the Royal Mail to sort out their export service interruption, I had a look at my rocker shaft, that shows wear marks like this: I guess my rocker shaft is toast, as well, isn't it? Do you have recommendations for good replacements? thank you 🙂 Daniel

Hi Mr Wagger 🙂 yeah right, the pistons on the foto are the old ones, the new ones are still in their boxes. >Your valve seats need re-cutting, looking at your pictures. As that will remove any absorbed lead, probably best to have the seats changed. Also check the valve guides for wear. Fit new guides before machining the valve seats. They must be concentric. ok, first the guides then the seats. I should get them from Chris Witor, right? thanks 🙂

Hi there, while I am waiting for royalmail to resume export service, I am working on the engine. Apart from the engine stand and the black varnish, no progress was made. The head was cleaned, no varnish yet, No cracks are visible. The valve seats have pits: In terms of parts, currently I've got this: big end pistons 1 149976020COUNTY PISTON SET +20 FLAT TOP main bearing shells Small End Bush Kit - 6 - 119813K6 Timing Chain (single roller) - 105131 + tensioner Big End Bearing Set - Oversize +0.010 - RTC1751010 - OEM - Glyco Main Bearing Set - Oversize +0.010 - Glacier - RTC1752010 NO new oilpump head: nothing I guess I want to assemble the big end first, and get the head prepared in parallel. Apart from cleaning the block, what should I do next? big end? install the main shells + crankshaft, measure the play/clearances order a new oil pump?? check the connecting rods, bring to the same weight? ?? head? get new valve seats? inlet and outlet? order valve guides, valves etc? As you see, I've got no plan yet...any recommendations are wellcome 🙂

Hi there, I'd love to resume working on my OD but the clutch is being helt up since 5 days in the UK mail...due to the export service disruption. What do you guys think, should the royal mail pay the ransom? Posting a random foto of my OD innards in the meantime... greetings Daniel

yeah, it has got 21 teeth. So I guess, I've got the correct one.

Hello, my idler looks like that (see foto below). Length of the teeth is ca. 0.53in

The teeth of the reverse idler have a length of ca. 0.53in. The colar of the 1st/2nd-synchro unit is shorter than that: So I guess there is no lever setting that prevents the idler to be engaged with the synchro unit's gear. Right?