Jezza
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Posts posted by Jezza
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Thanks for all the comments, suggestions and input; it's certainly food for thought!
For context, the current non-OD gear box is the original one I believe, and I've had a new (well, reconditioned) diff fitted. The engine block and all the major ancillary components have been replaced so, to Aidan's point, changing the bit in the middle of the engine and diff isn't itself an issue. I'd prefer a retro-fit if I can just for originality's sake but I'm not averse to considering a 5-speed replacement. After all, as time goes on bits will need to be replaced / upgraded and it will essentially become like Trigger's broom!
My main concern is the ability to source all the parts needed and having (or not, as the case more likely is) the knowledge to do this without balls-ing it up versus a straight replacement which is likely easier to both source and fit!
I see Mike Papworth's name has come up a couple of times to it might be worth me getting on the phone to him and discussing things.
~ changes to the interior aren't really a problem as I still have to replace the original interior on mine. 40+ year old carpets aren't something I want to keep hold of!!!
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I've got a GT6 Mk2 ('69) non-overdrive, and wanted to find out if I could either (i) change the gearbox to a 5-speed or (ii) retro fit an overdrive to the car. Is it really as easy as that?
I've heard that retro fitting isn't that easy to do, requires modifications to the loom, shorter prop-shaft and a different rear diff..
Is a wholesale change to a 5 speed box an easier option? Presumably fewer other modifications needed?? Or is there a way to convert the existing box to a 5-speed?
Or are there other options?
Any help / advice appreciated!
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Nice gesture, and happy birthday!
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If you plan to go by Chunnel, perhaps you need these:
ADMIN - Embedded link deleted following complaints - ADMIN
JOhn
They wouldn't get in my GT6.
Well they might, but one smell of the 40 year old carpets and they'd scarper!
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If booked far enough in advance the tunnel isn't any more expensive than the ferry (in fact I usually find the tunnel cheaper - certainly compared to the Dover Calais ferry route). Understand re driving distance though. Will see what my other crew mates want to do when we book!
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I see a lot of people use the ferry crossings - maybe departure location is better - but has anyone used the Channel Tunnel? I can't remember the last time I went on a ferry to Europe, although I do live closer to the Channel Tunnel than, say, Portsmouth. Just wondered why the ferry was the favoured method..?
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It sure is. The pilot gave it the beans a few times on the fly past, just to make a point
The typhoon with full on afterburners isn't far off in terms of rattling your internal organs.. pilot gave it some a few times too before climbing, doing a double barrel role and rejoining normal air traffic (and heading off to another show I guess). Red arrows also pretty spectacular! All round a great display.
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I appreciate it's not Triumph related but thought I'd share some of the pictures I took at Saturday's Wings & Wheels at Dunfold. Thoroughly enjoyable day out despite the inevitable rain towards the end of the day and got talking to a chap who spent 30-odd years working for Jaguar in the design and aerodynamics dept and worked on the XJ220 design work. Interesting stuff. He now owns a 911 so that tells you something!
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I did, thanks Gully. I'll upload a few photos in a new thread.
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Thanks John. I was thinking about it in relation to my steering rack bolt (where the steering column joins the rack), the bolt is loose but just keeps spinning so I can't tighten it or loosen to get it off and replace it. Going to get a nut breaker onto it and then change the whole nut and bolt assembly. As an alternative I was thinking about just 'gunging' the bolt up with something like the 3M product. Probably better to break it off and start again!
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I couldn't make the Selsey Walsh meet unfortunately, how was it? Any pictures from the event / meet??
@gully Given the tragic events at Shoreham, do you have any insight as to what the restrictions will be for the Vulcan? I was hoping to see it this weekend at Dunsford.. hope it still flys!!
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Different ratio rear diff? I had the difficulty of finding a non-OD diff when needing to replace mine on my GT6, so I assume there is a different ratio for an OD box. Not sure if its the same story on a Spit though.
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Not sure about the pressure dropping, but I used Halfords classic oil in my last oil change. I got talking to the guy at the garage I took my car to recently to get the tracking done and he thoroughly recommended it and hadn't seen any issues with using in on any of the British classics he sees.
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So, I managed to refit the suspension (much quicker job this time, thankfully) and rise the lower spring seating. I guaged the height by taking a guide from the old fixed dampers. And the new adjustables weren't faulty, just a little stiff on first turn of the tensioner. I initially set them at 7 clicks out of 18 and had a drive and then had to back it off a bit. Think I ended up at 6 clicks which is firm but drivable.
Next job is the tracking which is being done tomorrow, and I will ask the garage to lower the front end slightly as it sits up a bit.
Anyway, thanks for all the tips and advice it was very helpful!
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I'm in the process of choosing a colour for my GT6 given the PO painted it badly in black. I'm probably going for an original colour for originality and for the reasons Clive mentions. So I'll probably end up with primrose yellow (which was its original colour) or Valencia blue (which I quite like), but each to their own. I think gun metal grey looks good on modern cars, probably less so on classics.
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Are you sure they are not fully tightened Jerry. It would be unusual if both were faulty I would have thought.
It is possible, and I did think the same that it would be odd (or just very unlucky) for both to be faulty. I tried both dampers, and tried turning them both ways. There was a small turn (maybe 2mm in each direction) but no clicks.
They look brand new and certainly didn't look as if they were another customers returns that had been resold, for example, and they both had undamaged inspection stickers on them. I'll have a closer look when they're off the car.
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You are welcome Jerry. As you are going to remove the dampers from the car to fit the locking rings you might find it easier to wind the spring seats up off the car and make the final adjustments when fitted. I found that the C spanner fouled the suspension and it was quite difficult to turn the rings.
.. and give me a chance to take another look at the tensioner knob and speak to the club shop if they don't turn!
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Very helpful John, many thanks for these. I'll need to revisit this when I have some light (no power in my garage) but from your pictures it certainly does look like the lower spring seating needs raising quite a lot.
I've also realised I didn't fit the lower locking collar, so I have the adjustable spring seat only! So they'll have to come off anyway!
Many thanks to all who helped!
Jerry
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From the upper lip of the bottom spring retaining seat, to the lower lip of the upper spring retaining seat,
measures 8 and 3/4 inches.Haynes says spring working length on a GT6 9 and 1/2 inches which fits, I think?
I also notice that my adjusting knobs are towards the discs and yours must be towards the engine. But I don't see how this makes any difference.
Thanks for the measurements - I'll get the tape measure (and my Hayes manual) out tonight when I get home. I was advised to fit the dampers with the tensioner facing the chassis as it would be easier to adjust, but as long as you can get to the knob to adjust them I guess it makes little difference!
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@clive Thanks, I share your frustration! I just called the club shop and they said the '20% more' refers to the 'GT6 workshop manual rating for the standard GT6 springs +20%'. I'm still none the wiser at the moment! Anyway, I hope they should be ok for the car for normal road use once I can get the settings right. On the dampers I'll try again adjusting the tensioner knob, otherwise they're going back to the club shop and I'm back to square one!
BTW, the pic of the car in my signature was taken before the Gaz shocks and the club shop springs were fitted.
@dougbgt6 How high is the bottom seat on your fixed ones? This might give me at least a rough idea of where to start with mine!
Yes, slightly bigger tyres, from memory I think they're 165 65 R13 on 5J wheels. They give a nice ride but the very outer edge of the fronts rubs on the inner lip of the wheel arch when said speed bump is driven over!
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@Clive its a good question! Overall the settings are too soft and the tyres rub the arches when I drive over a speed bump or hit a pot hole. I'm using the club shop springs (the uprated ones), so I'd hope they'd have the appropriate resistance. I set the shocks at their fullest length to start with (see picture) so I'll start with winding up the lower spring seat to start with.
@dougbgt6 I found the knob incredibly difficult to turn I even set my adjustable wrench on it (softly of course) but no movement either way!
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Many thanks for the tips. I finally fitted the new setup (which took ages), took it out for a spin round the block and its far too soft!
Tried then to adjust the shocks but found it impossible to turn the tensioner knob.
I noticed a very small Allen key type socket (c.2mm) in the side of the tensioner knob but also couldn't shift that either. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to pull the knob out before attempting to tighten?
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I'm re-fitting the front suspension springs and dampers on my GT6 with the Gaz adjustable ones. Given they are adjustable, are there any recommended settings for the dampers? The main use is road, so a firm but comfortable ride is what I'm after. Do I just mirror the rear suspension settings for the fronts?
Any help or advice appreciated.
Jerry
measures 8 and 3/4 inches.
Retro fit overdrive
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Am aware of the fitting issue(s), but thanks for the tip about the chrome top to the gearlever cover