Martin V

Hole drilled & 4 mounting nuts slackened off (although they didn't seem tight anyway). I'll let you know how it goes and whether I need to take action to replace sooner than end of the season ! Thanks for your support.

Thanks again guys. If I can get access beneath, I’ll try slackening the bolts mounting the plate or the OD bracket to allow self positioning. I’ve had a close look at the other marks and it seems clear that those are spanner marks just on the paint top surface. I don’t think anything more sinister but time may tell. I’ll have a chat with my pal about temporary weld solution as per Mick and others advice. Many thanks.

Thanks Johny, I’ll discuss with my pal to see if he’ll have a go with me. Thanks Graham , yes I think any new plate needs some extra bracing before fitting.

Hi All, May be a simple question here for you guys just to put my mind at rest a little in short term regarding my GT6 1973 MK3 with OD. I noticed a while back a small crack in the Overdrive mounting plate (I'll attach a photo asap to this thread). I assumed when it went to a well know garage near to Leeds that they would have flagged it to me when they had the Gearbox and OD out of the car if it would be a problem and worth replacing at that time. As they didn't mention it I assumed no issue and stupidly I forgot to ask them about it as the experience overall was not straight forward. I looked again yesterday when checking on my small oil drip origins. Seems still odd drops down onto exhaust from Gearbox (poss top gasket) and from OD itself (who knows where - seems to me that this box of tricks is the worst thing invented if you want to not drop oil). Anyway, I digress, the crack seems to have grown and I have only done a couple of 50 milers and couple of short 10 mile trips to shops. I've now put some paint on the end of the crack so that I can base my judgement on something specific over next weeks. Having finally got the car into "going to" show state I'm loathed to start stripping out the tunnel again until towards end of the year. I just read an old post where someone asked if possible to replace without Gearbox/OD removal and I was pleased to read that consensus was YES. But with Tunnel removed. I guess I'm hoping to confirm that this is very common (by the design of all the weight being on an extended tab it seems it is bad design anyway) and not urgent to fix? Another interim fix might be that a mate of mine can weld on a small brace across the plate /split to tied me over. What do you guys advise?

Hi Guys, I was just looking at my weekly Auction alerts and happened to come across 10+ lots of lovely Triumph Car small scale models many still in boxes. The site is a public site and this is the link to one of the lots: https://www.easyliveauction.com/catalogue/lot/3379d1ff0449a79cb6a424139d895112/0af8d24542e81eb9357e7ef448a6646f/toys-trains-stereoscopic-postcards-militaria-sale-lot-124/ The auction is at http://www.richardwinterton.co.uk/ The do post items I assume for a fee. Auction is Weds 21st Feb

Sadly the roads were yet again awash last weekend but it certainly sounded more like a Maserati!! Oh, and also in this chat there was the topic of the Drain plug, which I also changed over to a Magnetic plug with copper washer, I put a little tape on the final threads near the head just as a little extra insurance. So far seems OK.

Thought I’d share with the group my investment. I went for the latest CJ Auto ramps as above. As per Pete’s comment, they are “sturdy” to say the least. Common sense led me to buy two pairs in the end as I’d waiting a few months for them to come into stock and just decided that it would be more convenient to have access. You may have seen them at Stoneleigh last weekend. Colin has been superb with support. I had a problem with one pump which has today been replaced by Colin calling in with a new one and to check everything was working OK. OK you can manage with jacks and stands and yes it’s a fair outlay but just the ease and access with a GT6 at waist height has already been appreciated by my back and knees. I see it as an investment which will pay back financially and in health benefits over time. If you have questions give me a shout, demos are also easy if you are local.

All done. Slackened off the conversion (original oil filter) bolt after dropping the oil. The conversion rotated easily and new shorter filter fitted which fits perfectly at about 7 O’clock. Engjne starts and runs fine. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for this info, need to check the age of mine !

Thanks Richard. I've done the measuring and am pretty sure there is room beneath between the brake union and pipes so that the Relief valve cap can be taken out of the equation. I'll give it a go when we are out of this latest freeze. W77 on order :-).

Thanks - I will also try one of these as I hope better quality than usual mass suppliers

Hi Richard, with the Mann W77, I guess you have that nearer 7 O'Clock position - did you have to modify the brake union position? I think the height of 59mm would also work on mine clearing the relief valve cap and coming up short of the brake pipe union but would appreciate any comment from yourself. I looked at mine this morning and the Relieve Valve Cap obstructs to some degree and then the brake union would come into play which negates the use of any filter heights like the current 85mm one. Looking at the other ones mentioned and using the Mann link above the W77 does seem a good option. Agree also with the above comment, for the miles I will do and likely to change annual or bi annual I can't see a filter every really getting blocked enough to cause issues. Thanks

Yep, I missed the word "nearer" out of my sentence. I was going to aim to match what Doug had said earlier and also the same as you say and shoot for less than 8 O'clock depending on clearances. Thanks guys. Much appreciated clear now on what to aim for , what to use and what to bung the drain with :-).

Thanks Johny.Gearbox seems to be sealed so will leave well alone and just sort out the engine one when i do the change.

Just chatted to Rimmer this morning and found that they do actually have a fitting instruction sheet for the conversion which I'm sure the PO would have bought from them. Attached if anyone wants to look. Clearly PO didn't read it, it seems a trend. Clearly says "with filter straight down" obviously depending on obstructions and filter size but this is not a long filter from TJ @85mm. I'll buy a service kit for this just in case I find an issue with either of O rings when I go to make the rotation. I think I'll buy more of their TJ filters as they are equivalent to the GFE 173 with a single NRV. Three for £15 inc vat as I'll be ordering anyway for the kit. Another Question: Are the straight magnetic bolts more likely to seal better than the typical tapered drain plugs? I've only got the magnetic one on the gearbox drain currently but thought to transition over for Engine drain next time I do an oil change and even perhaps on the Differential filler. I thought the tapered were OK but have found perhaps that first time used they may work well, not so much if undone a few times (my gearbox story is long). Thanks guys, always appreciate your comments. RR1238.pdf

Will it transform our engines similarly to the same performance Johny 🙂 😉

Currently the filter sits at about 10 O'clock (past the horizontal). It is up against the sensor but it was easy enough to remove /replace. @johny Is the position of the converter determined just by the centre bolt (on my pic) slackened off and rotate the filter position lower then tighten again? Reading your post "upside down" meaning 6pm would be the ideal or do I misunderstand? Is it worth bringing it downwards before I replace the oil/filter but only as far as being able to still use this kind of length filter (not a short one) as per Doug's comment. I like the catalogue link provided, nice to see the NRV count in the spec. So it would also be best to use a filter with 1 NRV ? It seems then that the physical size is the next deciding factor as the pressure also varies on these but I wouldn't know which is best for the engine pressure. Looking at that link, it seems that all BUT the GFE 166 have 1 NRV . Those with NRV includes the TJ Filter currently fitted (Rimmer product).

Hi Guys I have a spin on conversion on my car Gt6 Mk3 and last year when I changed the oil after an oil flush I recall the angle of the filter being odd as if you prefill the filter it mostly pours out when fitting. As I had very little chance to drive the car from when i bought it (start of July) I decided to plan a further oil change come spring after some miles are done just to be sure to start the proper year with fresh oil and filter. The filter was given by the PO and he clearly bought from Rimmer: TJ Filter QFL 0099 with height of 85mm / diameter 76. I think it is quoted as equivalent to GFE 173 and from what I read these have no valve. Is the angle correct as I read a lot here and else where about correct angle and 45 deg mentioned, assuming that means from the horizontal, then the position is good I think. But then I also read a lot about needing a filter with non return valve in it but it's hard to see which have this. I have a list GFE 173, 180, 166, 348 or FRAM PH 2964 but are any particularly correct to use for this angle of filter positioning? should I move the position? Thanks as ever. Martin

Hi guys, I took the plunge and ordered a kit. Fitted it over Christmas and happy with the process and outcome. OK it is not 100% perfect wrt the original arms just showing at the edges but 99% and the look and feel is really nice. The slight increase in grip diameter also makes a big difference to myself. The grip compared to the original surface is much more reassuring. It took me nearly two hours and taking up any slack in the stitches is important every few stitches. Otherwise the only tricky bit to enable a nice tidy outcome is the ending of each section. Loads of thread provided enabling repeat of any section in the future if required. The details of my purchase: The price was actually less with a discount applied. £20.39 LEATHER STEERING WHEEL COVER FOR TRIUMPH GT6 BLACK SEAM £23.99Unit price £23.99 Item number: 185886714327 8cm or 3.1in ⋅ 37cm or 14.5in

All fitted nicely at the weekend, thanks Pete. I got the rear on axle stands, undid the nylocs (4 on my late GT6), removed the two front studs, lifted very slightly the wheel verticals on both sides with jacks and the from near side managed to insert my arm to the differential gap and slide my slotted half inch spacer into the gap. Points of note for anyone trying the same job; Prepare the studs carefully before trying the job : I spent couple of hours the day before removing each stud individually, cleaning the thread/loosening seized nylocs etc. this enabled me to ensure I could get enough minimal thread visible after inserting the spacer. After inserting the spacer I pre-fitted the nyloc enough to get the nylon onto the end of the stud. Then used that to reinsert the studs. I did this one by one, always having min 2 in place. The studs are OK for half inch spacers but would need longer studs for larger spacer. You may also need a little filing of the side edges (front and back) to allow the spacer to fit enough into the trough in the top of differential. I slotted the rear bolt holes which enabled me to leave rear studs in place which held spring clamp aligned (thanks for the tip Pete). I needed a small nudge of one stud to reinsert through lower spring clamp plate but otherwise went back perfectly. Half inch spacer removed 1 deg positive camber both sides rear leaving me at 0 deg (both unladen). Thanks for you help, I had the job done surprisingly easily/quickly and also now have a sealant sealed cover panel and new nylocs and cover panel screws so it looks grand!

Thanks guys, yes just the screw adjustment for damping. I’ve had both types in the past including fully adjustable tailor made Penske on single seater racing car. They all came together nicely, I bolted down the top cap fully was whilst the springs were clamped and with them being that half inch shorter they both slid into position perfectly without any catching on the cross piece on the lower wishbone. After spraying the springs and Spax with a few nice coats of primer and black paint I think it looks quite respectable and I got rid of the Spax yellow which was really tatty and not fitting with car. The top caps came up nice and with new nuts I’m pleased with my efforts. I even now fitted my refurbed original valances having fitted the top wishbone bolts correctly, fitted correct sized lower damper bolts and shimmed the lower to reduce my positive camber to 1 deg positive (unladen). I’ll consider another shim each side after driving a little as laden should bring it closer to 0 degrees anyway. Of course, Toe in was corrected after the shims were added. Thanks for your help guys.

Thanks Johny, yes you are correct. There is just the small thread at the top which gives a tiny amount of reduction if I can master the spring compressors tight enough. My dampers just have the rebound adjustment. Managed to get them all stripped down so just the challenge of assembly later this week. Thanks All for your great comments.

Thanks Johny, yes they were about that length (8") when they were on the car although one was half inch longer. I'm taking the opportunity whilst they are off the car to take them apart, clean, paint and build back properly with them put on opposite sides. I guess if I try to compress fit them a little shorter than they stand currently it will make them easier to fit back on the car. I believe shortening the static length before I refit will make little/no difference to the loaded length and ride characteristics as long as I only need to shorten them a small amount. At least now the top wishbone mounting bolts will not be fouling the springs and the lower mounting bolts will be the right size as a 3/8" I found isn't good on the lower shock mounting when they should 7/16".

OK, thanks. I'd also noticed how the leather doesn't cover the 1cm or so of covering (vinyl I think) on the arms. A bit OCD on things like that so it might just drive me mad (excuse the pun).

Hi, Not sure if you got what you were looking for ? My GT6 Mk3 steering wheel (with the three arms with a slit in each) is 14 1/2 " outer edge to outer edge and the actual rim width is 1" measured on the front. Circumference is 3". There are some ergonomic bumps on the reverse to aide grip. I agree, I also find it very thin to hold but then that is because we are used to lovely shaped ergo wheels in our daily cars I guess. I'm looking at the leather covers which someone else has posted about.