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Aidsaunders

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Everything posted by Aidsaunders

  1. Aidsaunders
    John, solid rubber? Not a foam?
  2. Aidsaunders
    My grey seal, RB black seal. Mine is better at the long thin sections. Just need to sort the correct material, the grey stuff is just for testing. Anyone found something suitable?
  3. Aidsaunders
    I’ve created this cutting guide for the seals. First try highlighted the need for an extremely sharp blade which is also very pointed, a scalpel. My Stanley, even with a brand new blade, not suitable.
  4. Aidsaunders
    Just looking for confirmation that these D shaped pieces are simply screwed directly to the fiberglass replacements. Can’t see the point of creating a cutout in the outer valance as the D shaped piece is solid backed and doesn’t allow any airflow. Thank you.
  5. Aidsaunders
    Can someone please tell me what the screws are that secure the chrome plated number plate housing to the casting? My housing has been rechromed, probably better than original, so the screws don’t seat correctly. If I can find out what the screws are, I can csk the area accordingly.
  6. Aidsaunders
    Where did you get your new screen from? I eventually found success with a Pilkington one. All of the cheaper ones weren’t absolutely 100% the correct shape.
  7. Aidsaunders
    My car came with fiberglass replacement front 1/4 valances and there aren’t any threaded inserts etc glassed-in. So I guess it’s nuts and bolts to fit them to the chassis and to fit the indicator/sidelights to the 1/4s. Anyone found a way around cutting an access hole to facilitate this? Or used some kind of Rivnut thing?
  8. Aidsaunders
    Thanks Johny. Both my badge and housing have been rechromed by the previous owner. None of the pins will go through at the moment! Bit of opening up of holes coming up.
  9. Aidsaunders
    I have some new seals for the units and they are considerably thicker than the original ones. I know that the originals are compressed but at 4mm thick, they’re half the thickness of the new ones at 8mm thick. I don’t want to be damaging my lights whilst trying to get the lenses and bezel on. I have the original screws and they don’t protrude beyond the seal. Anyone else experienced this? Seals are from Rimmer Bros.
  10. Aidsaunders
    Does the pins on the rear of the badge just go straight into the light housing or are there some plastic bushes and, are there any retaining clips to final fit?
  11. Aidsaunders
    Can anyone send me pictures of the loom route from chassis to bonnet. I’m assuming that it’s something like in the picture. The protection sleeve would be held by the clip welded to the chassis and I’ll cable tie it to the bonnet hinge tube. It does end up neatly laid on the top of the c member when the bonnet is down and doesn’t snag anywhere.
  12. Aidsaunders
    I’m guessing that the link two four-way bullet connectors together and then the one black wire earths everything?
  13. Aidsaunders
  14. Aidsaunders
    Hmm. So I removed the tape from the end of the loom to separate the blue/white wire and effect a repair on it and discovered why those two black wires didn’t go down to earth! I’m assuming that it’s original. Why would they do this?
  15. Aidsaunders
    Ooer! Two out of three of the black/earth wires going to the front of the bonnet have no continuity back to earth!
  16. Aidsaunders
    A nyloc nut and a nut retainer?
  17. Aidsaunders
    Thanks guys. All working now. Serious voltage drop though at the front end. Several new bullet connectors to go in and some cleaning to be done.
  18. Aidsaunders
    I have been able to recreate a door glass channel, the rear one, for the GT6. I employed a new channel from another car, the original GT6 brackets, and some 3D printed jigs. Is anyone else in need of the rear channels? I’m more than happy to assist.
  19. Aidsaunders
  20. Aidsaunders
    My GT6 appears to have a Vitesse column headlight switch on it, it has two wires, brown/red and solid brown that aren’t on the GT6 wiring diagram. On the GT6 diagram, the switch has five connections and on the Vitesse diagram it has six but only five are used. Am I better off getting a new GT6 switch or using this one with some advice?
  21. Aidsaunders
    Thanks Dick, I will look into them.
  22. Aidsaunders
    Pete, is there an anti-rotation (D hole) washer on the Ford nyloc setup?
  23. Aidsaunders
    Has anyone fitted this kit and been able to fit both split pins (o/s & n/s) without backing the castellated nut off to align it to a pin hole? One of mine required this.
  24. Aidsaunders
    My mistake there, indeed no cap. But there is no D washer on the CC kit.
  25. Aidsaunders
    People are getting mixed up here. The CC big stubs don’t have a d washer, castellated nut and split pin only. They do require that the nut is fitted to a torque too. The only thing preventing rotation is the split pin.
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