Aidsaunders

John, solid rubber? Not a foam?

My grey seal, RB black seal. Mine is better at the long thin sections. Just need to sort the correct material, the grey stuff is just for testing. Anyone found something suitable?

I’ve created this cutting guide for the seals. First try highlighted the need for an extremely sharp blade which is also very pointed, a scalpel. My Stanley, even with a brand new blade, not suitable.

Just looking for confirmation that these D shaped pieces are simply screwed directly to the fiberglass replacements. Can’t see the point of creating a cutout in the outer valance as the D shaped piece is solid backed and doesn’t allow any airflow. Thank you.

Can someone please tell me what the screws are that secure the chrome plated number plate housing to the casting? My housing has been rechromed, probably better than original, so the screws don’t seat correctly. If I can find out what the screws are, I can csk the area accordingly.

Where did you get your new screen from? I eventually found success with a Pilkington one. All of the cheaper ones weren’t absolutely 100% the correct shape.

My car came with fiberglass replacement front 1/4 valances and there aren’t any threaded inserts etc glassed-in. So I guess it’s nuts and bolts to fit them to the chassis and to fit the indicator/sidelights to the 1/4s. Anyone found a way around cutting an access hole to facilitate this? Or used some kind of Rivnut thing?

Thanks Johny. Both my badge and housing have been rechromed by the previous owner. None of the pins will go through at the moment! Bit of opening up of holes coming up.

I have some new seals for the units and they are considerably thicker than the original ones. I know that the originals are compressed but at 4mm thick, they’re half the thickness of the new ones at 8mm thick. I don’t want to be damaging my lights whilst trying to get the lenses and bezel on. I have the original screws and they don’t protrude beyond the seal. Anyone else experienced this? Seals are from Rimmer Bros.

Does the pins on the rear of the badge just go straight into the light housing or are there some plastic bushes and, are there any retaining clips to final fit?

Can anyone send me pictures of the loom route from chassis to bonnet. I’m assuming that it’s something like in the picture. The protection sleeve would be held by the clip welded to the chassis and I’ll cable tie it to the bonnet hinge tube. It does end up neatly laid on the top of the c member when the bonnet is down and doesn’t snag anywhere.

I’m guessing that the link two four-way bullet connectors together and then the one black wire earths everything?

Hmm. So I removed the tape from the end of the loom to separate the blue/white wire and effect a repair on it and discovered why those two black wires didn’t go down to earth! I’m assuming that it’s original. Why would they do this?

Ooer! Two out of three of the black/earth wires going to the front of the bonnet have no continuity back to earth!