Joachim Moeller
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Posts posted by Joachim Moeller
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There are no Valencia blue Stanley screwdrivers here in Germany, but I agree that it's best to have the whole car in one paint ideally from one mix. Today I've painted the chassis with the paint from the dealer nearby and I like it. It comes very close to what I remember being Valencia blue and what I want the car to look like. Cheers to all.
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Here we have: on the left is the old inner wing Valencia blue - on top is the number plate light plinth sprayed in Valencia blue 22 supplied by the club (cellulose) - and on the right is Valencia blue 22 as supplied by a German paint dealer here in Germany (acrylic, quick brush over an old panel, still wet).
Cheers Joachim
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PeterH, PM sent. Joachim
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Thank you for your input so far (especially for the tr-register link). I'll try to take some photographs tomorrow. It's not that I dislike the darkness of the paint the club supplied but it does surprise me. Otherwise I've painted my GT6 with paint from the club shop and I trust that their colour match is perfect. I'm just wondering. Unfortunately there aren't a lot of Valencia blue Triumphs around here in Germany to compare the colour shades in the flesh.
Cheers Joachim
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Hi all,
my Spitfire Mk3 (1968) project was painted several times in its life in different colours. The original colour was Valencia blue which can be identified from the plate (code 66) and it can still be seen inside the rear wings (well what's left of it). Now, I've bought myself a can of valencia blue 66 at Triumfest last year (shame, I had to work this year). and I tried it on a small panel. The result is a very very dark blue when compared to the original colour inside the wing (almost like Royal blue) and it looks considerably darker than any Valencia blue Triumph that is pictured on the web or in books. I once owned a 13/60 that originally was Valencia blue too and I don't remember it being so dark too. Any ideas?
Cheers Joachim
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Thank you John for your information input and especially for the link to your article. Initially I wanted to make sure that the head I've got is for a GT6 MkI and not for a 1600 Vitesse (as I think those where different). Once I'm sure it is for a GT6 it makes sense to start work on it.
Best wishes for 2015
Joachim
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Merry Xmas Dick and the best wishes for 2015,
I will double check the dimensions of the head as last time I've used an odd chinese imperial measure (as it's difficult to get non metric things over here in Germany- as long as it is not plumbing stuff). It just started to snow , so work on the car will have to wait anyway...
Happy New Year
Joachim
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Hm, as the heigth of the head is 2"13/16inch (only) I guess it is a Vitesse 1600 head. Any ideas? Thanks and cheers, Joachim
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Hi, I have a spare cylinder head (supposed to be for a GT6) that has the following number stamped on the manifold side : 512425. The raised number on top of the head is identified (well sort of) as : 3 0 8(or6) 4 7 8(or5). Is anybody able to highlight what I've got? Mainly to make sure it is a 2000cc head. Thanks to all. Joachim
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Me too, I prefer to read from paper than from a display and I like to put a copy on the shelf in my collection. Although I definitely would benefit from an online copy as currently I'm still waiting for my November copy! So if there would be an option to have both - printed and online copy - that would get my vote.
Joachim
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Mine normally arrives around the 25th. So I still have to wait...
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Thanks Pete, I hope i don't have to strip the box (but in case your help is recognized). You say the two lower bolts are sealed with copper washers. According to the parts catalogue only the lowest bolt has a copper washer fitted (GT& MkI gearbox) whereas the other four bolts (fitted up to either side of the box) have spring washers only ? By the way when I removed the bell housing only one of the upper bolts has had a copper washer - so no wonder there was some oil inside the housing... Cheers Joachim
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Hi! While taking care of the spherical post for the clutch fork (see engine section) I've separated the bellhousing from the gearbox. This isn't necessary - I know now - but in doing so I've found a totally broken input sealing AND the three springs between the bellhousing and the gearbox were missing. Obviously someone in the past has forgotten them or thought they weren't necessary. So, what is their use (other than putting somje sort of tension between the parts they are mounted between) and what are the results if they are omitted? Cheers Joachim
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Pete,
first of all thank you for all the information. Your help is most appreciated. As I don't want to go the trial-and-error-route more than necessary I have a few more questions. Regarding the post, is it as simple as basic mathematics - say, the bearing is 4mm less in height so I put 4mm washers under the post to gain height? What about the lever geometry? Adjusting the slave cylinder accordingly (4mm)? What grease do you use for the throwout pins?
Cheers
Joachim
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Pete,
adding a washer under the post to gain height means the bearing should be in permanent contact with the springs? This would mean the bearing itself is turning even if the clutch pedal isn't depressed. (This would explain the noise I've got with the old bearing by making contact with the springs from time to time)
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Thanks Dick,
I have replaced the bearing (with GRB209) and will see what's happening when it's all back together again. What have you used for greasing the carrier/fork? The workshop manual says zinc oxyde grease and I can't find that here in Germany (so far).
Joachim
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Thanks Pete,
is the bearing in constant contact with the diaphragm springs (constant turning)? Or is it making contact only when the clutch is depressed?
Joachim
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Hi all, while restoring my 1967 GT6 MkI I've had the engine running for the first time last week. The clutch release bearing was fouling the clutch springs (clutch not engaged - terrible noise) so I've removed the engine again. While adressing myself to the bearing I've found that everybody is selling part no. GRB209 as the bearing to use BUT Rimmers say that you can't use it for the very early GT6 MkI engines that I've got. Is this true? What's the alternative (no according to the Rimmers website)? I have three early MkI engines in all and all clutch release bearings look the same as GRB209. Thank you for any help. Cheers Joachim
rouges gallery ...float needles
in Fuel System
Posted
Hi Pete,
I've just rebuilt the carbs for my GT6 MkI (CD150). The float needles in the kit had no holes too. Is this different to the 175 float needles or should I fix that before trying to get the engine running?
Regards
Joachim