russ01

Yes I can strip it down at my leisure once I have done the engine swap, I will possibly do a full rebuild when cashflow allows

To be honest I've had bit of a long day today so just concentrated on the one with 0 compression, but that said seen as all the valves had 0 clearance I'm guessing that the others will have improved. I will check compression on All cylinders next week when I have more time and I don't feel like someone has tried to rip my spine out lol

Well I re did the compression test today with a bit of oil down the offending plug hole no difference, so I set the tappets an re tested I now have around 45psi still a way of the rest. Now my question is could it be the fact that the valves have not been fully closing for a long time that there is a build up of carbon on the offending valve and valve seats causing the valves to still not creating a good seal or a combination of incorrect valve clearance and worn piston rings ?????

No I didn't I've not had chance, I had to cover it up because it started chucking it down. I will try again before I take the engine out

Did a compression test today number 3 only about 10psi all others around 75psi . Put a good glug of redex down the plughole, will give it another test in a few days before I do the engine swap. If no improvement will strip it down and have a look once the replacement engine is in

I've managed to source a complete engine carb and all that came out of a good runner that has a chassis that is rotten and not really viable to repair. At least that way I'll have a car that runs and an engine that I can rebuild at leisure and a few extra spares to boot

Well managed to do a bit more investigation at the garage and it's looking piston rings need replacing ☹️ Thanks for your help everyone .

I'm going to my local garage this afternoon going to test emitions hopefully will give a bit more idea as to what is going on, will possibly test what is coming from breather pipe as well

Yes the car is new to me. I'll check the compression, if compression is low I think the car will end up going back to the previous owner as I only picked it up yesterday ☹️

Thanks DanMi that would make sense I'll have to see if I can borrow a compression tester

Thanks Johny . I did think running rich but was just an extra thought as it seemed strange not to hear the tappets tapping away, and there did seem to be more than usual gases coming from the breather pipe. Also all I need to do is hold the breather pipe near to the air filter housing connection point for it to slow the tickover to the point of the engine stalling. My thinking was if valves not quiet sealed and allowing exhaust gas and fuel to be pushed past the valves and out the rocker cover breather . I will be checking both as soon as it stops raining as I don't have anywhere under cover to work on it ATM. Just looking for thoughts and opinions before I get into it and start going down the rabbit hole and end up replacing/repairing things I don't need to lol

Hi everyone I have a 1968 triumph herold 13/60 . Runs fine on tic over with Rocker cover breather pipe removed from air filter housing, but as soon as it is re connected the engine slows and then stalls . If the breather pipe is connected on a relatively short run it develops a miss fire and eventually cuts out all together, every time sooting up the plugs could this be due to lack of valve clearance?(I have noticed that there is no tapping whatsoever that I can hear) Thanks in advance for any advice