Jump to content

Rocker breather


russ01

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone I have a 1968 triumph herold 13/60 . Runs fine on tic over with Rocker cover breather pipe removed from air filter housing, but as soon as it is re connected the engine slows and then stalls . If the breather pipe is connected on a relatively short run it develops a miss fire and eventually cuts out all together, every time sooting up the plugs could this be due to lack of valve clearance?(I have noticed that there is no tapping whatsoever that I can hear) 

Thanks in advance for any advice 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds as if your carb mixture is set very rich so that it runs ok when extra air is introduced via the open breather pipe. This would account for the sooting up when the pipe is connected.

Cant see the tappets having this effect although of course as always if you have any doubt over their setting they should be checked...

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Thanks Johny . I did think running rich but was just an extra thought as it seemed strange not to hear the tappets tapping away, and there did seem to be more than usual gases coming from the breather pipe. Also all I need to do is hold the breather pipe near to the air filter housing connection point for it to slow the tickover to the point of the engine stalling. 

My thinking was if valves not quiet sealed and allowing exhaust gas and fuel to be pushed past the valves and out the rocker cover breather .

I will be checking both as soon as it stops raining as I don't have anywhere under cover to work on it ATM.

Just looking for thoughts and opinions before I get into it and start going down the rabbit hole and end up replacing/repairing things I don't need to lol

Edited by russ01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the valves were not closing the gases would exit via the manifolds not the rocker cover. If there is excessive gas coming from the breather, that would indicate excess gases entering the crank case, maybe worn/broken piston ring. I would do a compression check

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes it sounds like you might have a lot of fumes coming from the breather pipe and I go with the explanation above. Is the car new to you as I wonder if a previous owner has set it up to run with the pipe disconnected😲 

As well as the compression check suggested I would adjust the mixture to the standard setting in the manual and then try reconnecting the pipe. If it runs then you can fine tune the mixture...

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the car is new to me. I'll check the compression, if compression is low I think the car will end up going back to the previous owner as I only picked it up yesterday ☹️

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

its also worth checking no filter gaskets are obstructing the front face ports of the carbs 

there should be inside the rocker cover a metal gauze needs the retainer prizing open to extract it and wash in petrol

a check of the diaphragm is worthwhile if its wrinkled a wash in petrol will revert it to size

the diaphragm has location lugs to correctly position the air piston

when was the filter last changed ???

as for mixture from level with the jet housing 3 turns down is a good start setting 

tight valve clearances do have a big effect on idle quality 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to my local garage this afternoon going to test emitions hopefully will give a bit more idea as to what is going on, will possibly test what is coming from breather pipe as well 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad youve got an answer and bear in mind that its not just the rings that wear but also the bores so it may need a rebore and new pistons which unfortunately adds considerably to the costs...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

has the car stood for ages   rings can get gummed up with lack of use .

often a good dose of redex in the plug hole and left for a few days can make a cheap improvement

but will make clouds of smoke when you restart it 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've managed to source a complete engine carb and all that came out of a good runner that has a chassis that is rotten and not really viable to repair. At least that way I'll have a car that runs and an engine that I can rebuild at leisure and a few extra spares to boot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, russ01 said:

I've managed to source a complete engine carb and all that came out of a good runner that has a chassis that is rotten and not really viable to repair. At least that way I'll have a car that runs and an engine that I can rebuild at leisure and a few extra spares to boot

Keep all the spares you can, parts are becoming ever more rare and very expensive.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 22/04/2024 at 18:27, Pete Lewis said:

often a good dose of redex in the plug hole and left for a few days can make a cheap improvement

 

After this, though maybe a be a good idea to turn the engine over before fitting plugs, as if the Redex hasn't drained down from the piston top, then could hydraulic the engine?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did a compression test today number 3 only about 10psi all others around 75psi . Put a good glug of redex down the plughole, will give it another test in a few days before I do the engine swap. If no improvement will strip it down and have a look once the replacement engine is in 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, russ01 said:

Did a compression test today number 3 only about 10psi all others around 75psi . Put a good glug of redex down the plughole, will give it another test in a few days before I do the engine swap. If no improvement will strip it down and have a look once the replacement engine is in 

did you retry after putting a squirt or 2 of oil in the cylinders, if the readings increase a lot that would mean bad rings as we suspect, if they don't go up at all it is valves. I would check the valve clearances before you repeat the compression check anyway

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 22/04/2024 at 10:00, russ01 said:

Hi everyone I have a 1968 triumph herold 13/60 .

Forgive me for finding that funny... it struck a chord with me as my own 1200 was advertised as a Trumiph Herlad and the cars in our house are now all referred to as 'Trumiphs'. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Well I re did the compression test today with a bit of oil down the offending plug hole no difference, so I set the tappets an re tested I now have around 45psi still a way of the rest. Now my question is could it be the fact that the valves have not been fully closing for a long time that there is a  build up of carbon on the offending valve and valve seats causing the valves to still not creating a good seal or a combination of incorrect valve clearance and worn piston rings ?????

Edited by russ01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To be honest I've had bit of a long day today so just concentrated on the one with 0 compression, but that said seen as all the valves had 0 clearance I'm guessing that the others will have improved.

I will check compression on All cylinders next week when I have more time and I don't feel like someone has tried to rip my spine out lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...