Henry Boler

That all sounds like rather too much to choose from to me! I've got ride or stiffness adjustable shocks on my car, not height adjustable. Looking at the photos on Rimmers of the height adjustable version of my shocks, if set to the lowest position they don't look much like they'd make the car any lower to me... My car handles extremely well, and believe me, I push my luck sometimes! I don't want to ruin that, but it would look better an inch lower! I noticed that Canley's sell one "F67 - FRONT SPRING - 330LB 1" LOWER" anyone tried these?. Henry

Just dug through my history file to find the front shocks are from TRGB Ltd. Part Number TRGB299/A and no reference to that on their website... Does anyone know the dimensions for the spring platforms then? Henry

Whilst I'm on the topic of suspension at the moment, I wanted to ask about lowering. I would like to lower the front end of my car (1971 MK3 GT6) between 1" and 2" as it is way too high. What is the best way to go about it? Currently I have a set of GAZ ride adjustable shocks combined with who knows what springs. Is there anywhere that sells shorter springs? Henry

Gary - This is why I've been baffled for two years!! The new spring looked exactly the same as the old one, and fitted makes the car sit perfectly at the back end. That is correct about the wheel arch fixing. However it is the GAZ / Rotoflex Bracket conversion that is the problem. I don't have any bump stops any more as they were ditched at the same time all the wheel arch metalwork was ditched. My current set up is now using the same GAZ shocks that I had the problems with above, but I replaced the brackets with ones that simulate the original wheel arch mount position and so far they are great. The real question is why doesn't the conversion kit work? Henry

Just emailed Rimmer Bros for dimensions, they don't have GAZ in stock at the moment but sent me the Spax dimensions instead. Spax are 355mm end to end full extended and 290mm closed. Slightly unsure about these numbers...

The spring was new in February 2015 and was purchased from Owens Springs (the company that makes them). The new spring lifted the car a small amount but not enough, All appears fine to me. Even if it wasn't right it looks right... And it puts up a fight and a half when fitting it! Have to use those big old spring lifting bars. I was also very amused by Rimmers who sell these conversions, and also 1" lowering blocks!? How would that even work??

All interesting stuff. This is taken from an email from Garth Jupp at the Club Shop 13-01-2015. GAZ units are made to Open 12.11” closed 8.6” plus or minus ¼” (Open 307.6mm, Closed 218.4mm) At the time I checked this against my ones and found it to be correct.

Thanks Clive, but do we know if the non-rotoflex shocks are the same dimensions as the rotoflex ones? I appreciate they have different bushes but its the lengths that are important. Also, I know I've asked this before (2 years ago on this forum), but does anyone else have a GT6 with the rotoflex conversion brackets and if so, what is it like? Mine was totally awful with a passenger, bad enough with just me weighing in at around 12 stone (76kg) and an empty car.

Hi All, I've been having a play with my rear shock absorbers lately. The car is a MK3 GT6 with Rotoflex. When I rebuilt the car I opted for the GAZ rotoflex conversion kit with the little brackets that bolt onto the chassis that the club sells. No good at all, two years down the line I've finally got round to dealing with the problem, that is when the car is sat stationary there is about an inch of play before bottoming out on the shock absorber internally. This isn't much of a problem if there is nothing in the car, that includes the driver. But otherwise, totally unusable, even with a new rear spring and a rear end that sits quite high up in my opinion the car is bottoming out ten times a dozen. I have had the dimensions of the shock absorbers checked and they are spot on. I have just done phase one of the new set up. Which was to install a different set of brackets that also bolt on the chassis, but instead, mimic the original correct rotoflex mount position, I'm still using the shock absorbers designed for the other bracket, but hey, it's a million times better now. Also thanks Mark Reed for the new brackets, as I only had to fettle them a little to make them work! I'm now trying to gauge exactly what the differences are between the shock absorbers for non-rotoflex, for rotoflex, and for rotoflex + conversion bracket. Namely the open and closed dimensions hole centre to hole centre top to bottom. This is for future proofing. I think I need to buy different shocks as mine are knackered already 2 years in anyway, but I want to know for example, if I buy a set of standard non-rotoflex shock absorbers, with the option to in the future change rotoflex to cv drive shafts, are they going to be the right length for my set up now? I tried measuring my old ones but they are too dead to be of any use! Hope that all makes sense. Cheers, Henry

Ah yes, credits to GT6M! I've never seen a plug like that before! It's odd I know, but she ran beautifully, it was only when properly gunning it that I noticed anything at all... Idle was sweet as anything too... Oh well, I'll keep a close eye on her for a bit and see how she goes I think. Thanks for all your input guys! Henry

The plugs have probably been in the car for around 4 years, they are NGK BP6ES. It's weird how all the other plugs look absolutely fine though... Yeah both, one was worse than the other, one had a big split whereas the other only had very small ones that probably wouldn't have affected the engine at all as I was stretching the rubber to see the splits. Well, I only built it 2 years ago (all but carbs and plugs which I did 4 years ago, didn't bother re-doing the carbs and I used the same plugs). Yeah, only recently started having issues with the engines running, it is still very reliable fortunately! After today however the engine has now very recently had everything checked. Oil change, new filter, ignition service, carb service, fuel line, filter and pump service, cooling system service! Surely there is nothing left to fail now!! The coil is a Lucas DLB 105 from Rimmers. The thing is, that Sparkrite SX1000, completely stabilises the ignition timing as there is no arc across the points, it is all done in solid state electronics. My fuel economy is around 30 mpg. Also I took it to santa pod raceway, and the results I got there surpassed a MK3 GT6's expectations by about 2 seconds or something crazy! Running on the Sparkrite! Having said that, I may well look into electronic ignition at some point. Henry

Hi All, And the prize goes to Pete! One duff sparkplug! I drove back from Manchester with the sparkrite in the boot and it didn't help. I took the carbs apart and found both diaphragms needed replacing, so I replaced them and cleaned it all up in the process, ran better but still had the misfire. When I got back, I took the spark plugs out to reveal this... (see image) I dug out my old set of spark plugs, which had only been used for a few hundred miles and still looked new, swapped them all over and she runs like a dream now, and my god she goes fast when you stand on the right pedal now! Pete, I don't know what the resistance is but when I bought the coil I went for a 12V one specifically. Henry

That's interesting to know as I didn't know you could have a delayed electrical breakdown like that. My assisted points system is a Sparkrite SX1000, inductive discharge system, takes the load off the points so they don't burn out every journey which got tiresome! It has a condenser but I believe that's only there so that when you press the off switch on the unit the system can run as normal which requires the condenser. I could take the unit off completely and drive it home to see if that helps, the car runs fine on points as normal, just get fed up of constantly having to file the arcing off! Two reasons I never went for electronic ignition are one that I had the sparkrite lying around from an old car, also if it fails, I still have a working conventional ignition system waiting at a flick of a switch which appeals, and for the last two years it has been just fine. I'll have a good play with the system when I get down south and try different leads and coil etc. until I find the fault! Henry

Some good questions. The old dizzy cap center electrode was burned out, but that's no longer an issue. Haven't looked at the plugs or the coil, leads look fine, and are only 2 years old. I have an electronic discharge unit on the points to stop them wearing out, but it still has the issue with it switched off so I don't think it's that, unless the wiring is iffy, I could unplug it completely to test. Fuel pump is fine, took it to bits to see and the levers are all fine, I've had to do emergency repairs on the diaphragm link before with a welder as I got stranded down in devon! Fuel delivery seems fine, on idle it fills a jam jar at the carbs in only a few seconds... I might just tweak the timing tomorrow morning before I leave and see if that helps me at all. Henry

Yeah, funny you mention that as I did wonder why it was exactly bang on what the manual said having had the discussion a few years ago about 95 octane timing. Maybe I'll try that before I drive back. I'm not sure it would be valve timing as it runs so well. But having said that, would there be any obvious noises as a result? I do have an interesting noise that has been there since I changed the timing cover oil seal a while ago. I wasn't sure if the tensioner had gone back in properly, but it has run fine ever since... Henry

Hi All, Not sure if this is the right place for this question, but here goes anyway. When my GT6 is under full load at high speed for more than about 5 seconds, it starts missfiring, spitting and popping from under the bonnet, and when is pops I can smell fuel so it's a front fire, or whatever. I currently cannot work out what is causing it. I have taken the fuel system apart, blasted out the fuel lines, cleaned the filters, checked the fuel pump, cleaned the carb valves which were already clean anyway, checked the fuel flow, all appears really good to me, still failing though... Do the Stromberg choke units ever cause issues like this? Mine is a single shared choke unit. Also the air bleed valves? Haven't had a chance to look at either of these bits. I've checked the timing, currently 13 BTDC, but I'm sure that is what it has always been at and the delay part makes me think it isn't timing, but I could be wrong. Also changed the rotor arm and cap. I'm currently up in Manchester 250 miles from home so I don't have any spares or tools with me but if there is anything obvious I can try whilst I'm here, I might. The car will cruise at high speed all day, It's not until it starts climbing a hill or I need to overtake someone quickly that the issue starts, and I get the 5 seconds at full power and then have to back off once the issue starts again... Do these engines suffer with sticky valves or anything like that? Or do the coils go funny after prolonged high revs, seems unlikely... It has been doing this for a few weeks now, so I don't think there's an issue getting home or anything, but it would be nice to solve this! Any Ideas?

Haha, yeah I know, makes a change doesn't it! That was a seriously whizzy washer indeed!

Looks like I've found the culprit. Also re running the back wheels at speed, I've done that recently to no avail so went for a drive instead with a mate looking in the back and found the fault. There was a loose screw on the diff cover and the washer was buzzing about from the diff vibrations, amazing how much noise a little washer can make!

Richard, Yes, possibly a very rapid light metalic sound. It is a rotoflex car, yes. No performance issues at all still more than happy to run at high speed, the sound isn't getting any worse. Only hear the sound when at high speed on the motorway and usually on overrun. Not 100% certain it is the diff as when under load the sounds from everywhere come out in strange places, but it does sound pretty clear from the diff area. Sound has been noticeable for a couple of weeks or so. I might add that the gearbox and overdrive have been changed in that time too so could be related, but I'm not convinced. The diff was changed about 6 months ago as the old one blew up, this one is absolutely immaculate both inside and out, I rebuilt it, but it is a bit of a howler unfortunately. Pete, Very hard to distinguish speed of the sound as I only get it on overrun and can't really get a good pitch from it. However I might be inclined to say it's wheel speed as I reckon it would be too fast to be clear if it was at prop speed on the motorway, which must be around 6000 revs or something... It's a definite rear end noise, don't think it'll be anything engine related. No wheel trims on the car, Nuts all tight etc... I suppose it might be possible to actually record the sound from the car for you to hear.

Without actually looking, so apologies if this is an obvious question. Which way does the pump come out? Inwards or outwards?

Update: I finally got round to swapping the overdrive out the other day, result is that the new one is really good and the cause of the problem on the old one is the hydraulic pump had jammed down, so I'll have a look at that when I get a chance and fix it.

Hi All, I'm getting an interesting noise on my current differential gearbox. It's a 1971 3.89:1 Triumph GT6 MK3 with Overdrive. Is there anyone out there who would know what I mean if I said it was 'scissoring' ? It sounds like hundreds of scissors snipping, it's a sound that I've heard from things before, but have never mentioned. I'm not sure if I can think of a better way to describe it unfortunately. If that does make sense to anyone, any ideas what might cause it? Henry