Timing Cover Seal Replacement

[Jon J 1250]

Hi,

Bit of a novice question here.

I have never needed to replace the timing cover seal on my 12/50 in nearly 30 years of ownership, I fairly sure it is still the original and is now weeping and making a bit of a mess.

Is it necessary to drain some of the oil to remove the timing cover, I am not sure where the oil level line is in the engine at rest?

Also, are the new timing cover seals currently available from normal suppliers ok? or should I be looking for recent NOS from 80's/90's?

Regards
Jon

 

 

[johny]

Oil level is below timing cover so no problem to remove it and new seals are ok although I believe some prefer the old leather seals if you can find one. The seals come in two different sizes and I think youll want the smaller type. Also look at the surface the seal rubs on as you dont want any wear on it...

[Jon J 1250]

1 hour ago, johny said:

Oil level is below timing cover so no problem to remove it and new seals are ok although I believe some prefer the old leather seals if you can find one. The seals come in two different sizes and I think youll want the smaller type. Also look at the surface the seal rubs on as you dont want any wear on it...

Many thanks, I'll probably wait until the level is low and lift the front of the car up on ramps just in case, but good to know I won't dumping too much oil on floor by taking the cover off! 🙂

[johny]

Of course youll need a new gasket and possibly chain tensioner? Remember the bottom screw of the cover, unlike the rest, goes into aluminium which strips very easily😳

[JumpingFrog]

As Johny says, no issue with oil level, its much lower. But be aware, the hardest part of removing the timing cover is removing the crank pulley nut, you will really struggle if you don't have an impact gun.

Another tip, often the sealing surface on the pulley will be grooved, in this case it would be a good idea to use a shaft repair sleeve ("speedi-sleeve"). I would probably just use a modern seal, I don't think there's anything wrong with the quality of modern oil seals, especially if you can get a double lip type one.

Part number for "small crank" engine will be 100499, as far as I can tell that's  1.625x2.375x0.500 (I don't have one to measure).
So shaft repair sleeve should be SKF CR99826 (gold?) or SKF CR99162 (standard?).

[Jon J 1250]

1 hour ago, JumpingFrog said:

As Johny says, no issue with oil level, its much lower. But be aware, the hardest part of removing the timing cover is removing the crank pulley nut, you will really struggle if you don't have an impact gun.

Another tip, often the sealing surface on the pulley will be grooved, in this case it would be a good idea to use a shaft repair sleeve ("speedi-sleeve"). I would probably just use a modern seal, I don't think there's anything wrong with the quality of modern oil seals, especially if you can get a double lip type one.

Part number for "small crank" engine will be 100499, as far as I can tell that's  1.625x2.375x0.500 (I don't have one to measure).
So shaft repair sleeve should be SKF CR99826 (gold?) or SKF CR99162 (standard?).

Many thanks, very helpful tips all round. I have never even heard of repair sleeves for this before.

I have plenty of gasket sets and two nos BL tensioners if I need one.
I am concerned about getting the nut off, as my 12/50 has the starting handle kit on it so having the dog nut on it won't make things any easier!

Although I have spares I am hoping the chain and sprockets are good to go again, the car has just under 60k miles, so guessing they will do another 30 40k miles (which I am unlikely to ever do)

Cheers
Jon

[johny]

Yes the chain and sprockets usually last pretty well, especially on a 4 cylinder👍