David McHugh

The reason for taking the engine apart, was to change the big ends, I decided to change the piston rings at the same time so I don't think it is to do with compression. I certainly hope not.

I have not taken the Carbs apart, they came off because I could not lift the cylinder head back in place with the exhaust manifold and Carbs I'm place. I used all new gaskets. As far as I could see, the gasket can only go on one way. It was also my thought that air could be sucking in but could not think of a way to find out. I will remove the air filters as soon as I get home, about 17:00 I hope. Thank you guys

Hi Guys, your expertise is sort. Following a complete strip down of the engine on my 1300 Spitfire IV, I have fuel going into the carbs but it does not appear to be at the plugs. The carbs were not stripped down just removed and replaced using new gaskets all round. I have spark and the fuel pump is pumping fuel into the carbs Any ideas as to what the problem is? Thank you in advance David...

Hi Guys, does anyone know of a technique for fitting new piston rings that will reduce the likely hood of breaking them. Thank you in advance David...

Thanks Pete, it works :-)

Hi Chaps Has anyone got advise on getting cam followers out ? I am using a magnet and they come up until the top edge and won't pass that point, it is as though there is a ridge at edge Thank you in advance David

Thank you for your comments Pete. The starter is okay, that was one of the first things i checked. When I was having a listen with the stethoscope the sounds seemed to be the same regardless of where i was listening, having said that, i gave up with the stethoscope as it was quite windy today and the stethoscope has a long metal probe which would be better if it was covered which would also help to pinpoint a particular sound, the other thing, is that things never happen when you want them too, I hope i have better luck tomorrow.

I have not been able to find the part out of the distributor so not been able to put points back, will keep looking or source the part. I tried to use the stethoscope to locate the knock but with not much luck for several reasons I will try again tomorrow. My neighbor commented that it sounds like a nut banging around in a washing machine. The knock is defiantly from within the engine somewhere.

Thank you for your responses, here are the answers to the respective questions you have asked. It is defiantly a mechanical knock not plastic. Yes it does it when stationary but not on tick over, I will try putting the points and condenser back in tomorrow providing i can find the plastic post as i can't think what i did with it, woops. When it started i was on the flat and as yet have not driven on a hill to know if it is worse under load. I have the timing set at 8 degrees BTDC as in the Haynes. The vacuum did not seem to make any difference. I have bought a mechanics stethoscope which will be here tomorrow, i don't have a wooden screw driver or any other suitable wooden handled tool. I will update you tomorrow, thanks again David...

Hi Chaps, can anyone help me out with a engine knock? I was driving along in my MKIV Spitfire 1300 at about 65 mph when there was out of the blue a horrible knocking sound. I immediately slowed down and stopped, the breakdown guy had less idea than I did, however while he was there I got him to take off the rocker cover to see it there was anything obvious, which the was not. After getting the car home a neighbor said that he thought it sounded like the timing. Before i set out on my trip, i installed a electronic ignition and when doing so I had to force the black cylindrical ring that goes on the center shaft right below the rotor arm, this was because of a off white plastic post with a slightly larger diameter head (this was supposed to have been removed when i did the install) that was attached to the plate and was in the way. This post would have stopped the automatic timing adjustment made by the vacuum. Anyway I removed it, bought a strobe light and reset the timing and set up the carbs. There is definitely an improvement but at high revs it still occasionally knocks. There does not seem to be any kind of rhythm in the knock it is random, it almost sounds like something is loose and occasionally gets thrown around. My plan is to start a process of elimination even with the water pump and timing chain, although unlikely it won't hurt to change them and at the same time i can be confident that it is not them. I was then thinking of taking the sump off and checking the bigends. Your thoughts, ideas etc will be greatly appreciated. David....

Thank you all for your help, it looks like I will be taking a look at the Simon bbc, once I have looked at it to see exactly what's what I might then be able to make sense of what you mean Richard with regards to the difference between the two. Kind regards David

I have a 1974 1.3 Spitfire IV and want to fit electronic ignition, the tupe that fits inside the existing distributor cap. Can anyone recommend a type/ make and any useful tips. Your knowledge, if pasted on to me, will be greatly apriciated . Thank you in advance David.

Brilliant, thank you Kevin.

KevinR, I did forget something else, can you recommend a type/make of electronic ignition on the 1300 engine 1974 Spitfire IV Thank you Kind regards David

KevinR, Once again I apologise for my slow response, I have just been incredibly busy. Thank you again for passing on some of your invaluable knowledge, you have been most helpful. I wander if you would kindly help me with one other simple thing? where is the filler nut for the diff oil on 1974 Spitfire IV? Thank you in advance. Kind regards David

Thanks Paul, that is what I initially thought I would do, I also thought there must be something else. KevinR, I think that my passenger door probably has been rebuilt, it's certainly not the original door. I haven't looked on the inside of the o/s door yet. I will try and see if the parts that you mentioned are there, it is so difficult to see inside these doors. These parts 619509, if they are fixed to either end of the window lifter, when the window is wound to the top, wouldn't I be able to see them or at least the front one ? Do the parts 619509 also prevent the window from winding up further than it should? My windows defiantly go up further than they should. Thanks KevinR

Hi All, I am a new member and I have a 1974 Spitfire IV. My door windows when wound up tend to sit to upright instead of leaning I towards the car. Would this be a problem with the glass sitting in the runner incorrectly or is it an adjustment in the vertical channels, such as moving the base of the channels outwords. Ant help anyone can offer, would be greatly appreciated . Davidmc

Hi All, I am a new member and I have a 1974 Spitfire IV. My door windows when wound up tend to sit to upright instead of leaning I towards the hood. Would this be a problem with the glass sitting in the runner incorrectly or is it an adjustment in the vertical channels, such as moving the base of the channels out words. Ant help anyone can offer, would be greatly appreciated . Davidmc