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Unkel Kunkel

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Posts posted by Unkel Kunkel

  1. Shouldn't be a problem in a pressurised plane!

     

    Meanwhile,  in the afternoon  Flatology clinic of  Dr Janus (Hugh to his friends)

     

    Mr Sprout, "I have self referred myself to your special clinic, doctor"

    Dr J, "How can I help?"

    Mr S, "Well, My farts  are so unusual I thought your department might like to investigate them in the interests of medical science.I don't mind being sent for tests and investigations "

    Dr J, " Mmm, tell me about them"

    Mr S"Well, They are very very  frequent 10 -20 a day and they last a very long time -up to 3-4 minutes each, sometimes up to a quarter of a hour"

    Dr J "That is unusual,Mr Sprout , and it must cause you  a great deal of  inconvenience."

    Mr S "Not really doctor, even though I spend several  hours a day in board meetings, meet clients for lunch and I go to the theatre nearly every evening, luckily the other really unusual  thing about  my farts is that they are all  completely silent.I started one your  waiting room and it's still going"

     

    Dr J "I would like you to take this referral form over to the hospital,please"

    Mr S " Is it the first of the special  tests?"

    Dr J,"No Mr  Sprout ,it is for a hearing  aid"

  2. Hilarious, Cookie!

     

    This  a subject which holds fascination and is studied  very widely ,mainly at a  very personal level, but also in in academic institutions  throughout the world  through the science of Flatology.

     

    Through extensive  flatological research we know that the answer to  Pete's question lies in the colon.It is here where intestinal  fermentation of the polysaccharides takes place.

    The  Brassica genus - such as sprouts  are known to be  sulphur containing.The fermenation  impart a small, but  highly significant ,amount of hydrogen sulphide, H2S to the nitrogen, and air of the flatus.

    Also in the flatus, there is  hydrogen and methane which of course are  are flammable.  Yes, flammable - but please don't try this at home (but if you really  must,  then only try it at home)

     

    Flatology also studies  the question of the effect of high altitude on flatus. High Altitude Flatus Expulsion, or HAFE as we  flatologists like to call it   is a remarkarble phenomenon  experienced by climbers and others when  above 11,000 feet(largely explained on the basis of Boyle's law)

    Dietary advice for these adventurers is avoid  ingestion of  brassicacae (with special note  here to Pete - no sprouts )

    ref: .Aeurbach Miller .West Jr. Med., Vol.134(2) 1981 Feb

     

    Astronauts have provided further research data specific to the special challenges associated with  their unique  environment.

    Although much  work was published on this subject in the 1980 , more recently  this area of study has been silent (but  deadly)

  3. The explosion risk is when or  there  has been  "gassing"

    Oxygen also  comes off then ,Pete.

    Gassing  occurs during charging  (especially overcharging  whether bench charging or alternator fault) and at end of bench charging.

    It is also more likely on sulphated  batteries  ie old clapped out, run flat or so called  "week-end" cars.

     

    When the battery is getting charged there is release of hydrogen and also because    electrolysis of water,also  oxygen=

          2H2O => 2H2 (g) +  O2 (g)

    The hydrogen explodes "best" at a concentration of 4-70%. Normal atmosphere. is 21% O2 .So these conditions are fairly easily  met inside the battery and its immediate environs.

    The result is quite dramatic  and not without risk of quite serious injury as the fragments of battery can fly like shrapnell (as Colin described); eyes are at risk and although deafness after explosions is often temporary it can be permanent.

     

     

    It is said that since  mid 1990s and trend towards lead calcium batteries  etc  batteries  gas less anyway  and are   getting safer- they certainly last longer.

     

    Since sulphated batteries are more likely to go bang  when charging it suggests  

    • not letting your battery get very discharged

     an excuse for   frequent use  of your vehicle

    • and/or  use of  one of these clever little  trickle charger/.maintenance charger such as CTEK  etc 
    • being  rather cautious of vigorously charging old sulphated batteries that you know are near to dead. 

    Dearly beloved, Here endeth the lesson 

  4. Had to charge a battery recently- haven't had to for years.

    Got me thinking about  mishaps that I had seen or been involved with over the years

    So at risk of sounding like some  preaching 'elf and safety  bod here we go.

     

    My main point is these folk, in each case,  were   professional sensible  people- in one case a respected  motor engineer of over forty years  experience.

     

     Beware Direct shorting of battery terminals:

    2 cases- 1) A long ring spanner touched both terminals=Loud bang,part of spanner blew off.red hot spanner 2 burnt fingers.

                   2) Again direct short -across terminals of a tractor battery.This time short through spanner and metal strap of wrist watch resulting in nasty circumferential burn to wrist.

     

    -another reason to remove your wristwatch when" mechanicking" - esp if it has metal strap

     

     

     Explosion from hydrogen:

     

    A very experienced  car mechanic charging  a battery in a room where many batteries were stored and several on charge=

    He disconnected the battery  without switching off the  charger at mains first - spark from battery terminal caused explosion from hydrogen build up.Battery blown to pieces.He was splashed with acid.He doused himself with water.He sustained a corneal abrasion from the flying battery debris aggravated by the acid.Twenty years on he has gets frequent painful flare ups of of inflammation from his damaged cornea requiring drops for 2 weeks.He has resisted the idea of a corneal transplant but his vision is extremely poor in this eye.  

     

    There were explosions when mini owners  peering into the boot to check the battery used  a lighted match....

     

     

     

     

  5. I've done   far  worse things and  not always involving cars.

    -more "Mr Bean"  than "Blonde" - Remarkably, I do still  have a full head of hair -perhaps the EP90 has qualities as a hair product.The bouquet does needs a bit of further development work,  I admit.

  6. There's seems to have  been loads of opinions on this over the years but for me, Pete and Clive's assessments of the subject have convincingly concluded  the debate = EP gear oil not engine oil.

     

    EP's sulphurous aroma does have some strange attraction but I rather went off it many years ago.As a teenager feeling rather pleased with myself changing the clutch on my dad's 105e Anglia I thought I would remove the gearbox without draining it.After removing the propshaft  rear mounting etc I was  looking up , guiding   the gearbox down and rearwards when 1 1/2 pints of EP  90 poured out of the tailshaft over my head ,face and shoulders.A humbling experience.I was convinced I could still it smell for many weeks afterwards.

  7. Have used brick cleaner many times .Very effective- and very cheap. It will cut through lots  rust leaving a grey surface pitted where the rust has been.

    It makes many of the  expensive, so-called rust treatments look  ineffective.

     

    It is ,as you say hydrochloric acid( not phosphoric acid) some refer to it by  the ancient term muriatic acid

     

    Problem can be rusting again very rapidly if not washed and dried speedily. Washing with di-onised water afterwards then hot air gun and a wipe with Jenolite (which has posphoric  acid  in it) , dry off again.then prime. 

     

    There are obvious  dangers from handling  -(but no more than when you're cleaning bricks) so vinyl gloves and  proper eye protection- and have an "escape  plan" in your head - to irrigate skin eyes  with water and or milk if mishaps do occur.

  8. Hi Garry

     

    Steve and Dick make give important pointers

     

     

     Very much an amateur ,I have  learnt so far  that a safe working principle  with these  flipping  cars is there's  always  more rust than you think there is.

     

    -so it's likely if your outer sills are bad then don't be surprised if middle and inner sills  and where the floor flange meets same.

     

     If you don't know about these books. They helped ,and continue to help, me a lot:

     

     Practical Classics="Triumph Spitfire Restoration" (as  mentioned by Dick ). Still available on Amazon.

    As a complete  novice ,I found it very useful-especially the Pics.Note though ,they took the body shell off the chassis -don't do this!(These guys had a special jig made to put the body on to prevent distortion)

     

    "Classic car bodywork" by Martin Thaddeus covers  all manner of repairs to car body work including a section specifically dealing the replacement of floor and sills on a Spitfire. Pictures are really good. This is a really excellent  book.

    -Again  see Amazon

     

    Haynes Restoration Manual Triumph Spitfire GT6 Vitesse and Herald " is also  worth a look.Pictures are b&W  and not up to the  standard of the other two.The restorer does  Spitfire floor and sills and  fair bit of patch repairs but book tries to cover too much.

     

    Re-iterate re need for bracing  -adjustable preferably

    Keep the door on.(the door is pretty heavy so the bracing will be needed for this alone)

    Not just "fore and aft" to avoid a banana shaped car and for  for reasonable  door gaps but also remember it is needed  to ensure  that you can wind the door window up fully  without it fouling the windscreen pillar..

     

    As for the sequence i would go with the advise posted. by Dick.

     

    Certainly  avoid taking the A lower panel and floor out  at the same time if your sills are shot   (like  wot I did first time)  or the bulkhead will be all wobbling over the place even with a door brace and able to move outwards ie  laterally,  or "athwartships" 

    (I had to put a  lateral brace between door brace and the chassis bolts near inner aspect of cross member  to control this)

    I was more learned for the next side..

     

    Best of luck

     

    Andrew

  9. If the vinyl covering of the cards is  ok  you can use the old hardboard as a template for new card.I used twin wall acrylic sheet which is abut the same thickness as the  hardboard.(B&Q cost about £6 , I think -for both doors)

    Cutting the holes needs some patience and care. Vinyl glued on with Evostik

    .Hidden from view,Even if it does get wet it won't matter.

  10. Cheap oil ...I remember an  elderly relative who , as an  engineer reponsible for a large fleet  of heavy lorries,prided himself on the lack of engine failures  and used to tell  all who would listen how he insisted  on more frequent oil changes  than were  specified and how he used   the best quality oil,... "Oil's cheaper than engines,thou knows, lad"......

  11. Waxoyl or similar.

    The standard  pump type sprayer for Waxoyl isn't  really up to much compared with a compressor driven Shutz gun with lance type attachement (Amazon.Ebay etc -mine was made by Plastic Padding )

     

    Heat the  Waxoyl first- place the cannister in a container of very hot water( NOT heating it over a naked flame unless you like living dangerously- Waxolyl is surprisingly flammable)

  12. CJ Autos hydraulic ramps are excellent!

     

    Don't take up much storage space

    Easy drive on ( folded down height is very small - will clear  spoilers etc)

    Pump up hydraulics, then lock  hydraulic rams

    Much more access possible than  ordinary( precarious) drive on ramps

     Above all feel reassuringly  strong, stable  secure and safe. 

     

    Andrew

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