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Unkel Kunkel

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Unkel Kunkel last won the day on July 22

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  1. Teflon is better certainly than the original rubber but for wear resistance, ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) is probably the first choice according to American and Dutch websites and is probably better than Acetal ( Or Delrin as it is known in the States) (As a complete aside, this mirrors orthopedic practice where Sir John Charnley’s first hip replacements using Teflon wore out after year or so but when he changed to UHMWPE they were very much more successful.This material, with slight changes, is still used for its wear resistance is various orthopaedic roles) It is cheap, comes in bar, white and waxey- looking .Resistant to pretty much anything( apart from heat) It is said to be “easily machinable” Not by me, - I had quite a little pile of failures along side the mini lathe, long stringy bits of white swarf, and all different thicknesses until I had a set that looked reasonable. (The width of the spring with a 2 mm or so “bump” to fit the recess. Haven’t tried them yet as body still off chassis.
  2. Fatter cars and their expanding electronic equipment go together. Increasingly, the trend, like washing machines and dishwashers is for them to be electronically complex and come with an infinite number of “settings” These settings and the info. they provide is of little use . Hardly anyone ( and for sure, the makers must know) - agonizes over the special needs of a particular load of dirty crockery whether it should be “x setting plus 1 “- or the other ten options.They select what ever they did last time and every time since they bought the thing: - Bung it all in quickly before the News starts on the telly. Likewise the car radio ..if I am in a hire car,I just want local news or radio 4 or traffic news -I don’t want a navigate through a maze of options from a “menu” Car computers are a bit “much a do about nothing” - For example , the novelty of seeing “ Instantaneous Fuel Consumption ” quickly wears thin. Such information is of no use to the driver and it can be dangerously distracting. The electronics on these fat cars can be , to put it politely. .. 2FC/2
  3. I agree, modern cars are safer if you are involved in a high velocity impact.* However, there is a bit more to it. The period you quote includes the year seat belts became compulsory in UK -1983.It had an immediate and very significant impact on reducing serious injury and death. The cars weren’t altered, the majority already had them fitted. It was because nearly everyone started to wear them. Further back, the awful road accident statistics of the mid 1920’s were more down to the fact that a driving licence could be simply purchased, resulting in many drivers on the road who had not had to undergo any test of competence, rather than car design, though much of it was very rudimentary, especially regarding brakes. The poor road accident stats in London in the first few months of WW2 weren’t down to the Luftwaffe. It was because no-one could see where they were going. The “Black-out” was made worse worse “pea souper” fog. All vehicles headlights were but covered up apart from a tiny horizontal slit. * still fat and ugly, though
  4. There is another reason cars are becoming fatter - people are. America has had the lead for a while, but we are catching up rapidly Look at any random folk on high street photos from the 20’s to the 60’s = not much difference. Now compare folk from the 60’s and 70’s to the last ten years or so. Now people are very often seen to be overweight and some even morbidly obese- and these are often young folk. They simply can't fit in cars that their grandparents lithely nipped in and out of.
  5. Ive heard the “rear window has to be small to increase the strength of the roof “ before - is that really the reason? and no other option ? My missus has a Skoda Yeti. It is brilliant all rounder- not too big, excellent visibility, easy to park and handles remarkably well and has all wheel drive and 2 litre diesel very torquey.Versatile - the rear seats come out in seconds and it becomes a small van. The handbook though is an unhelpful nightmare full of dire warnings and disclaimers. But, they have stopped making it and have gone down the “ must be bigger and uglier “ route with its replacement in the way Citroen replaced the wonderfully versatile Berlingo by something .. bigger and more cumbersome.
  6. Cars look so similar - dark coloured, often with dark glass, slit like head lights, very small rear window (but all manner of reversing warnings gadgets and aids to compesate for not having a large clear rear window. They look like smoothed-out off- road-roaders but in reality, many have only 2WD and they ponce and pirouette on ludicrous elastic- band width low profile tyres. They are ugly and fat. Their girth ever increases as car park spaces get narrower. New houses are built with the deception that they have a garage that will accommodate these leviathans.They can’t.You can drive in - but you can’t open the doors to get out of the vehicle. They sport aggressive names like “ Warrior”, “Barbarian”, “Storm”, “Terminator” and are invariably.. black, huge and hideous Maybe it went down hill since the “Avenger”., Names thought to be bold and aggressive-but total bollocks..What do such names mean - “Avenge what?” Long gone are the gentlemanly, polite and inoffensive names like “Swallow” , “Kestrel”, - even “Chummy”- or the names of English counties like Devon, Anglia, Somerset, or the non aggressive” Imps” and “Heralds” and “Westminsters, Oxfords and Cambridges” and the sensible “Prefect” and “Consul” before the stylish Italian names like “Cortina” came in. Morris even named a car after a river - which was fine in the 1930s but “Isis” in the next century, held different associations. We need a stylish, small light car with good all round visibility and excellent nippy performance, that is practical and fun to drive and own. A new small car?
  7. It’s an odd area, and I’m not really sure about it : My Mk1V had never been previously dismantled and both sides were identical.No extra thick washer was present. According to the the Practical Classics resto manual, it should: Haynes manual confuses further with talk of “special “ washers - on both sides, (without saying what’s special about them) and I don’t think it is referring to a thick washer just on one side, otherwise it would say which side. I bought a thick washer from Canleys, but using it made that side seem very tight indeed - contradicting note 12. above about being able “ revolve the lower mounting rubbers with the fingers “ - Puzzled, I left it out and just copied the original set up, rebuilding with new rubber mountings. Perhaps if it does wears down on the nearside and starts clunking that is when it might prove useful to fit it?
  8. Variable speed is a feature that I value. Certainly much of what angle grinders do best is done “full blast”, but there are lots of occasions when a more controlled, light approach is called for and being to select the most appropriate speed is useful. Using a the various wire brush thingys, the job is more controllable and safer if you can select a speed for the job - and lessens the number and velocity of the little wire “arrows” that fly off.
  9. Thanks Ed and Colin - There does not seem to be any definitive word on this except putting the alloy ones at the front seems consistent and alloy to the rear, but less so. The body shell on mine has been fairly well braced whilst it acquired new floors, all sills and lower A posts and inner and outer rear wings, and the chassis has replacement front out-riggers,so realistically, the body will have altered a bit.. I think it will be alloy spacers to the front and probably alloy to the rear but I suspect it will be whatever fits best. Just need to get some freed- up time to do it ..
  10. Thanks everyone, that’s very helpful. The “A” and “D” are alloy, ie total of 4, Pete. Hope it goes back as easily as it came off ( the only snag I recall was caused by me forgetting to undo the handbrake cable.The engine crane lifted the whole lot up before I realised what was going on - cable must be strong!)
  11. Getting close now to getting the Spitfire body back on the chassis. It’s been a ( very ) long time since I removed it, but my brief notes suggest that an alloy spacers were on each front outriggers and 2 over the diff cross member like this: kitfrom ANG: All the bits were in a bad state so I have bought the above kit. But then I see other kits, like Paddocks only have 2 alloy spacers.. From reading various posts, I ‘m still very unclear if these were always fitted in the way the diag. suggests, or were they used more on a “custom built” basis to accommodate gaps on a “whatever fits best” basis with variation of spacers from one car to another. I haven’t found any definite guide in any manual or book, - so I’m seeking advice here, please!
  12. I bought one. It comes with a really microscopic instruction leaflet! I had to photo copy and enlarge it - but then found a video on U -tube showing how to set it up which was really very good. -so it was actually very easy set up, even for an “IT primitive” like me. I was surprised by its capability (esp.for price) Yes, it is quite impressive.
  13. I was always puzzled by such sayings - What is a “tidy mind” or a “cluttered mind “ ? “Take some pride in your work, boy !” “But doesn’t ‘pride come before a fall’, sir ?” ” Shut up” “Cleanliness is next to... ? “ ” Goldilocks ?” ”Stupid boy!”
  14. That Looks interesting, thanks so I’ ve just bought one.
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