JohnD
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Posts posted by JohnD
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This advice no use to you while away (unless some eager beaver in your Run carries a gauge) but I'd be looking at your compressions. "Oily" plugs don't get that way from an over rich setting, and neither does just one plug get sooty.
Good luck!
John
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Watching another YouTube from Kurtis @ Cutting Edge ( a pro heavy plant machinist - See "CEE Australia") i s\w him reach for said 'onion board' and thought, Oh, even the pros use it! But no. He rolled the paper into a funnel and poured hydraulic fluid through it!
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Kevn,
Glad you have found the cause, simple but obscure, but don't trust the dealers!
I'd reread the thread as it's a Sunday am, and your OP, where you said "I believe the towers can be shimmed for height" This is a common misunderstanding, that arises because the parts diagrams show a shim, Part No. 128356 , between the inner edge of the suspension tower and the chassis rail. However, there is no provision in the design for moving the tower up or down. It's bolted to the rail in four places with no slots!
I think that the shim is a production bodge to compensate for uneven quality control at Triumph! The tower is a fairly complex pressing, completed by multiple welds, so that the fit of tower to rail may have been less than perfect! If the parts closed up, the line worker would tighten and move on, if there was a gap, they'd add a shim. If your car has one, refit it, if not don't worry!
John
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On 21/09/2023 at 20:29, rogerguzzi said:
Hello All
I fitted one over my work bench in the same position as the old one and had to move it as it was to bright in my eyes as it was in front of me and just above head height!
I moved it to more above my head and is good.
But I think you can have to much light if it is in the wrong place and they are the bright white type?
Roger
Know what you mean, Roger! But I have shelf on the wall above the bench, just below eye level. I mounted the light under that, for excellent illumination!
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Mat,
All good advice above, and I'm glad to see from Pete that the late unreliability of the crank damper pulley is beginning to be part of Triumph lore!
Once you have confirmed that indicated TDC is true (best done with a degree wheel and piston stop, but a screwdriver in the plug hole will do it roughly), mark it on the pulley with Snopaque and get a stroboscopic timing light. Inspect the ignition, for correct timing and the operation of the advance mechanism. Also look inside your dizzie cap for signs of 'tracking', as your backfiring from the carb could be missfires.
Good luck!
John (The prophet of damper degradation! If you do suspect your damper, I can check it on my test rig!)
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Guy,
You have established that the cam timing is out! Well done! Now to bite the bullet and correct it, and you can do this yourself!
But prepare! You don't want to realise that you need parts when you want the car back on the road. A new timing cover gasket, and I suggest a new crank oil seal while that is off the car. One of the most fiddly jobs is to ensure the timing chain tensioning spring is in place when putting the cover back on. A wire hook like this is helpful - use thick wire! Mine is made from an old coat hanger! "A" should be the width of the chain, Singlex (as probably on a GT6) or Duplex. Use it to hold the spring against the cover as you replace it.
You will probably need to remove the radiator for ease of access, so antifreeze to replace the coolant, and (why not?) new rad hoses too.
Then actually doing the timing. The 'usual' method involves lining up marks on the cam and crank sprockets, but rebuilt engines may have replacement sprockets without marks. Then, you must use the 'classical' method that uses protractor wheels on crank and cam, or else ELoO! I think I have posted for you a link to my article on Sideways, but that uses two dial gauges which you may not have. There is an alternative methods, one in which you set the valve gaps wide and then check for equality at TDC Look it up, I thin k it;s in the WSM), or else you can use a spirit level! See: https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/9639-a-new-method-of-cam-timing/#comment-134275 There I pictured the method with the head off, but you could use it on the rockers with ease.
Good luck!
John
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That's a very good price, Mark!
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I agree with Unkel! And have started to replace as necessary with LEDs. It's that they come instantly that I like best!
John
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"Onion Board"??? Maybe for the pros, mixing resin every day, but in your house, do you not put cardboard aside for recycling? One cereal box provide four surfaces (each large side cut in two) to mix on! And it will cost NOTHING!
John
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The oil should be 1/4" from the top, with the damper piston in place.
That displaces a lot of oil, so that if you fill it 'correctly' and then put the piston back, you'll lose a lot!
John
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Actually, that joke is about right!
"Hand tight", using only the muscles in your forearm, is 10-12 ft-lbs. (NB sump flange bolts!)
Your upper arm muscles, biceps, triceps, can exert about twice that, and using the shoulder muscles that are even larger and connect to your spine, about four times.
After that, it's multiplying their power by a longer lever. For instance, Triumph rear wheel bearing but 120ft-lbs (from memory, don't quote me!) or Ford Grenada stub axle nuts, 350ft-lbs!
John
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While a lighted match next to a pool of petrol is a definite RUN FOR YOUR LIFE! signal, the old cinema trope of the cigarette end is not. I think the Mythbusters proved this. The petrol puts the fag end out!
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If you don't want to absorb, or radiate heat, the a shiny surface is best. That's why Thermos flasks are silvered, and NASA covered the Apollo craft (eg) in shiny gold foil.
But if you want to lose heat, as in a radiator. Then a rough Matt surface is best and black is the best colour. So you are quite right to use Matt black!
John
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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
and dont discount the 6 cyl damper ring may have lost its adhesion and the tdc timing marks on the damper ring are wildly out of place
Pete
Thanks, Pete, the old Hobby Horse needs a ride now and then!
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Roger, if you were using your company's product then of course my previous comments don't apply! However, then what do you compare your readings with - everyone else is using non-precision kit, so their readings are doubtful, if yours are not!
Can anyone say what compression should be, if the instrument is calibrated and precise? I fear it depends on the state of tune of the engine, but a figure for a standard rebuilt engine would be of interest.
John
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Roger,
Your compression numbers are "okay (ish) ". The actual number is irrelevant - the gauges are not precision instruments! They are excellent to compare pressure across the block, but cannot be used to compare with readings from someone else, unless they are done on the same day with the same gauge. If your readings are +/- 5% across the block, then fine!
And, oil on the bore always increases the pressure - even well-sealing rings have their seal improved by some oil in the lands! The Oil Test tells you if a low pressure is due to poor valve sealing, when the oil doesn't improve pressure.
IMHO, you are quite correct to pursue a different cause for low power. You found and sorted a carburettor problem, well done. Ensure that ignition timing correct and use Equal Lift on Overlap (only the rocker cover needs to come off!) as a check that cam timing correct.
John
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Different engine, Steve. Unless a post-2014 UK model. But anyway, I quoted the 1L 3 cylinder Ecoboost to show that it's mixture control that gets power, not ignition volts! I'm not "Which? for Cars"!!!
John
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Moderns go for high tech mixture control, with swirl, tumble, stratified charge etc. to promote rapid, complete and efficient combustion, and more power. The 1L three cylinder Ecoboost engine gets 170bhp, with plug gaps and coil voltage like those on a Standard Triumph. It's all in the mixture!
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Worn to min = replace!
never mind noises or cracks. Just replace!
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A picture would be interesting, Wagger, please!
John
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Yes, Johnny, but if Aristotle has ONE Metric fastener, he's not going to make that mistake, is he?
And anyway, unless you want a tight bolt, the Metric/Imperial equivalents aren't too far off:
Inch Equivalent Metric Size
1/4 M6
5/16 M8
3/8 M10
7/16 M12Best is to have sets of both spanner sizes. You don't need everything from 3/16 to an inch and a half. The above four cover almost all bolts on your Triumph.
John
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Tipidave,
Yes, you could do that and have a look-up table so that you could guess what the wrench was clicking at, OR you could get it recalibrated. Look online for someone near you, who can offer the work to ISO 6789. ( ISO 6789.2017 is a later, more expensive standard!). However it'll cost about £50, so a new wrench might be a better option.
John
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Aristotle,
Without consulting the manual, I can say that 7/16" is an enormous bolt! Think about it - 8/16 is half an inch! I'm sure that Johnny is correct.
But fasteners have not only gone Metric, but improved in other ways since our cars were made. "Nylok" nuts are now universal, with a plastic washer built in that grips the thread and resists loosening. I expect your Metric bolt has one, and this substitute will be fine!
John
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3 hours ago, nicrguy1966 said:
The mechanic I spoke to has recommended the "vernier jobbie". He thinks it's the only way to set the cam timing accurately.
I'm just waiting for him to have a slot in his garage to fit me in for some professional diagnostics and hopefully a fix.
Hmmmmmmmmmmm!
As said above, even without a 'flip', you should be able to set your timing to within half a tooth. (Can't recall what that is in degrees!) When your original complaint indicates it misset by more than that. Verniers are for people who want to advance/retard by micro amounts.
John
Any advice ? Lack of power on steep hills
in Engine
Posted
That would have been true ever since the Accuspark was fitted. This is new, unless Paul tells us different.