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    New Forest
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    Gentry and 1974 Range Rover Classic

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terryj's Achievements


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  1. Thought you may like an update on this. Originally the engine would rev OK but was woolly and perhaps missing a little at high revs. All plugs (NGK) were firing and a nice colour brown. I fitted a new set of WR78 plugs and took the car for a short test drive taking it up to 4500 rpm in the gears and it accelerated and ran beautifully all the way. So it would seem that one of the old NGK plugs was probably breaking down at high revs. Certainly the WR78's have made a noticeable improvement. Thanks for everyone's comments - they were informative and very helpful.
  2. Thanks Johny and Pete. The video does indeed show that non-resistance plugs appear to be preferable so I phoned Green Spark Plug Co. to ask when their W78 plugs would be back in stock and was told that they are now obsolete. They suggested WR78 plugs would still do the job adequately. Terry
  3. Having seen discussions on use of these spark plugs I am a bit confused regarding W78, WR78 and WR78X. I want to try these in a Vitesse 2l Mk2 but don't know which to order. I note Pete's comments about not ordering plugs with an R in the number but also others have used WR78 satisfactorily. Green Spark Plug Co. are out of stock of W78 but do have WR78 and there are some on ebay WR78X. Is there any difference and which would you recommend please? Terry
  4. Many thanks Pete and N/M. I guessed it could be an early number but confirmation that spec is probably standard is useful. He has a workshop manual given to him by Dave at Canley Classics and lives in Coventry so should be OK for advice and parts. Terry
  5. I am asking for a friend who has a Gentry with a Toledo 1300 engine No. DG3948HE. He thinks that the engine may have seized and wants to remove the cylinder head to check for damage but wants to know more about the likely specifications of what he may find. He has only been able to find references to engine numbers with five digits, not four as in his case. Can anyone advise what year this engine is likely to be please and what is the best source for obtaining relevant specifications, tolerances etc.? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. Terry Johnson
  6. Hi Tony That's going back to the old days of freeing up a jammed starter which I hoped I had left behind. Thanks for the tip though, I will bear it in mind. Terry
  7. Tony, I saw your post after I had reinstalled the starter so was unable to check the flywheel ring gear. Refitted without the two shims and on first turn of key (HT lead removed) - screech...... oh b*gg*r! But every turn of the key since has been OK, around half a dozen times. Having been an intermittent problem I will just have to see how it goes but thanks to all for your help. Terry
  8. More pics. of the pinion after putting a chamfer on the teeth.
  9. Hi Paul. Many thanks for the Bendix offer but I probably still have my original starter around somewhere and I'm in Hampshire quite some way from Bury St Edmunds. Interesting to hear though that you removed the two thin shims. I have just been putting a chamfer on the pinion teeth and will post some pics. shortly. Terry
  10. Tony - yes they appear to be metal filings, probably from where the starter pinion has been clashing with the flywheel ring and that would account for the horrible screeching noise that occurs when it does not engage properly with the flywheel. Pete - you make some very valid points. I did the indexing check on the solenoid and it does move the pinion a fraction each time. I agree that there does not appear to be any chamfer on the pinion teeth (see two more attached photos) which would not help in engaging with the flywheel. I cannot see that Canley Classics sell this hi-torque starter motor now and perhaps that's why! I will try to put a chamfer on the pinion teeth to see if that helps as you suggest. Going back to the spacer, I said I have two thin shims but I do also have the thick (c. 7/16") spacer fitted as well. Would leaving out one or both shims make any difference? I have not measured them but probably about 25 thou thick each. Thanks for your offer to look at these starters at HQ on 7th April but I need to get this sorted before then as I need the car for a 4 day Gentry Register event starting 8th April. Terry
  11. Thanks for your comment Pete. I have now removed the starter and found that there are two thin spacer shims fitted which presumably means that the pinion stands off from the flywheel more than it should do. When tested on the bench the starter worked fine and the pinion throws out OK. I attach some photos of the stripped down motor which shows the motor itself is fine, nice clean commutator and brush gear. When turned the reduction gear operates OK. I have not stripped down the solenoid because, quite frankly, I don't know what I'm looking for there! The pinion teeth look a bit worn where they engage the flywheel. Do you think the extra spacer shim could cause my problem and removing one shim could cure it? Terry
  12. Thanks Paul and Tony. I guessed I would have to remove the starter and was just trying to get confirmation before I got down and dirty to do so. Will report back on what I find. Terry
  13. The hi-torque starter motor (ex Canley Classics) fitted to the Vitesse Mk2 engine in my Gentry often appears to fail to engage. When I turn the key it emits a loud scream which I presume is the motor turning but it fails to engage with the flywheel starter ring. This has happened occasionally in the past but has occurred several times recently. This may happen several times before it eventually engages and fires up the engine. I am familiar with the need to graphite lubricate the throw out pinion mechanism on a traditional starter but is there any likelihood that I should do the same on the hi-torque starter? I don't have a diagram of the hi-torque starter workings so don't know if it operates in the same way. Terry
  14. Many thanks - all sorted now. One turn of the crank did the trick so you were absolutely right. Thanks again. Terry
  15. Pete Pump now removed and appears to function OK. Looks like you are correct that the pump lever is on top of the cam so priming lever will not operate. Is the pump operating lobe on the camshaft a single lobe cam and how far should I turn the crankshaft to get the lever off the top of the cam please? Terry
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