Colin Lindsay
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Posts posted by Colin Lindsay
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15 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
that little lightly sprung slider /wedge is very important in it stops the cam lifting out of the striker
on body movements
Pete
Easy to remove but a real faff to get back in again. I see suppliers selling remanufactured catches without them, but I've never yet managed to remove one without banjaxing the spring so that it fits into another as it should.
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
John,
I fear you in turn have completely missed UK's ironic tone!
But you are correct, Colin doesn't play trumpet, he's into stringed instruments.
Doug
Does Clarinet count? Though I fear blowing my own clarinet may have an unintended second meaning, but the TR was spotted by others with an elderly lady in the front passenger seat.... someone trying to cash in their inheritance early? "Let's go out in the TR and scare Granny to death".
I agree with Unkel, it's a warning sign that we have a certain form of driver approaching, the audible version of the furry dice and blacked-out windows. "Much cry and little wool" was the old saying, you hear a car from miles away shaking the windows then along comes a 1 litre Vauxhall Corsa at 20 mph with a three-foot-tall driver trying to see over the dashboard as he's reclined the seat so far backwards...
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To make things as simple as can be, and there are so many permutations out there, I just go for a 'Triumph' alternator ie any Lucas alternator that was designed for our cars back in the day and this includes the uprated versions marketed by reputable suppliers, or else what looks like good second-hand that has been tested working. That way I usually remove the requirement for specially-made brackets arms and shims that Japanese versions etc require.
I've pinched this photo from Rimmers' website of the kit they supply. You'll need a mounting bracket, (the large black item in the photo) as the dynamo one is different, and an adjuster arm - I see theirs is stepped to permit proper alignment, plus a spacer and long bolt. I've never used the electrical connector blocks, the old loom usually just plugs straight into the end.
After that, just adapt the wiring at the control box end, either internally using the box as a period-looking spare key holder or else remove it altogether and just connect the wires together. It's been years since I did this last but disconnect the black earth lead and tie it up / insulate it to prevent shorts. Connect the small brown + green and yellow + green leads together. All other leads, all the brown and the large brown + yellow lead should be connected together. It's well documented all over the Net, not so much now as many cars have been converted over the years and so not so many left to convert. (Same as the +ve to -ve earth conversion, not so common now as it used to be.)
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Push it downwards, then check the joint in the engine bay. Then pull it upwards, and recheck - if it has moved you'll see the difference. Even taking two photos on a phone to compare can show better than your own eyes. Easy enough to tighten up.
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There is another post on here about narrow / wide steering racks; I never knew there was any width difference and just fitted whichever rack I'd rebuilt to whichever car needed it, with no visible problems.
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Funniest thing I've seen in ages: question on some forum or other: "what do you do immediately after sex?" Top answer: "Continue the autopsy and remind myself that one uncontrollable slip doesn't make me a bad Vet..."
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Might be a common occurrence; I had (might still have, haven't seen it in ages) one of those plates on the shelf, and it was cracked in the same place - top right curve of this old photo, you can just make out the horizontal line of the crack going out to the very edge.
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Lord, I'm starting to wonder why I ever bought this Z3. The airbag light is now on permanently, "passenger side seatbelt pre-tensioner error" according to the code reader. I can't reset it so the fault is still there. It may be the tensioner, the first connection, the cable, or the second connection, or the main loom - all disturbed when I removed the seats to repair the bushes. I can replace the tensioner, or the short cable; I've already checked and cleaned the connections all the way to the main loom. Each component will cost money to replace and if the fault remains then that's wasted money - which we all hate doing! Checked it again yesterday and now there are TWO faults, the driver's side has also shown an identical warning. That's both sides now, with replacement tensioners costing £140 at least and that's only on eBay; if it's not the pre-tensioner itself, or the cables, then it's the main loom, which can be salvaged by very delicate splicing. Add to that a slight reluctance to start when hot on Thursday, and a possibly-related misfire on Friday that went away after a few minutes... now the paranoia is setting in. Every corner: is that the suspension waving about? Seems slow to accelerate: is that the camshaft position sensor going or am I not pressing the accelerator enough? I see it becoming a money pit and am starting to lose enthusiasm for it. These cars are being scrapped in quite large numbers due to faults like these and the cost of replacement parts - it has certainly made me appreciate the Heralds!
At least one thing was settled: the car is UK-spec and has only one exhaust sensor, pre-cat. That led to a lot of anti-UK comments concerning emissions on the Z3 forums, but not my problem - I'm road legal and original.
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23 minutes ago, jdaley said:
I race sidecars, which have everything exposed.
I am thinking about having the aluminum parts water blasted and left exposed where practical in my Herald.
For instance the gear extension could be upolstered so it stands free and engine noise etc is excluded,
Has it been down before?
I've not seen it done (bar no tunnel at all, but the road noise was terrible!) but the world's your oyster with the Triumph design. Simple enough to do by modifying the tunnel and the carpet; it should be easy enough to alter the shape of the tunnel as required then fibreglass the new shape. I wonder would you get more noise coming up around the front end of the lever extension, presumably that's now exposed and will have to be sealed around, than the rear lever itself which has the rubber seal round it?
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Original Linread versions still appear but are very very sought after and so expensive. I cheated by disconnecting the driver's side wiring completely on my Heralds and blanking the hole with a rubber grommet.
Beware of some replacements that are available; they need to be very slightly domed, almost flat, as in Mike's first photo, otherwise the door will never adjust forward or else will squash them as it closes. The version to the right in my photo won't fit the Herald / Vitesse for that reason. Morris Minor may fit, they look similar and are far more readily available, and some modern cars such as the Renault Clio / Kangoo are plastic versions of our originals but require an earth cable for that very reason.
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40 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
I get the impression if someone else is searching it can't do two at a time? So it's whoever gets in first and the loser gets "Try later"
Doug
Great. Even the website thinks I'm a loser.
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The top pivot on mine is just a nut and bolt through the bracket. It's meant to be a pivot pin but mine's long gone... part number 608237, probably NLA but one of that diameter should be easily found.
Went back out to the garage just now and made one from a 3/8 shoulder bolt. Perfect fit!
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Up to you and your level of skill as to whether you use cellulose or two-pack, obviously cellulose is easier but not so hard wearing, but you'll only get cellulose in an aerosol.
You may find that either the original yellow has faded, (or else has been resprayed by a PO?) and so if you get the perfect from-the-can shade it may not be correct in itself. Scanning might be the best match, even if it is modern, my Herald is actually VW Delftweiss today. A good supplier should be able to use the original codes for a match, even the old BL codes are still available. I'm not 100% sure but Mimosa wasn't available on the 1500, only Inca, but was available on the 1300?
Scroll down on the links below until you come to the 'yellow' section:
https://www.mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/paint_codes.html
https://myquickfix.co.uk/triumph-car-data/triumph-paint-codes/
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I can log in okay but the search function still drives me up the walls. I search for example 'Herald Estate tailgate' and I get every post over the last decade that has any of those words at all. Then is asks me: "Search only for the phrase "Herald Estate Tailgate?" Aha! I click on that and get: "You cannot make another search so soon after your last. Please wait ten seconds." so I wait... and get that message again. So I wait 30 seconds. Same message. I wait two minutes. Same message. I give up. Sometimes I forget to change it from 'This forum only' to 'Everywhere' but by the time I try, it's too late again...
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2 hours ago, jdaley said:
The Comm plate has no designation on it.
I have another car coming as part of the deal that seems to have hoops and lots of spares.
I have to pick it up soon.
So its interesting that it may have an aftermarket soft top.
The rear seat is sedan.
Dash seems pretty low grade display
Dash looks standard for an early car, 80mph speedo for a 948 and early glovebox surround plus the very very rare metal shrouds on the steering wheel, metal cowls on the column etc but the dashboard has been modified for a radio, so the ashtray slot is larger and you're lost the left-hand pull control.
Twin SU carbs in the footwell point to a 948 TC, interesting air filter arrangement also very interesting-looking padded door cards but I'm pretty sure that's not where the propshaft goes. Keep us updated with photos as that looks to be a potentially intriguing car and rebuild.
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13 hours ago, fungus said:
heres an interesting one from a later 1200 12/50 manual .
worth looking under the washer bottle?
I did, on my 1964 1200. They were still there, rusted to the bulkhead, fifty years after purchase. THAT'S what I call original and unmolested.
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45 degree would make most sense, but delicate... I could do it and to be honest that's my preferred route but rubber isn't as forgiving as wood or metal so could flex and destroy the angle. Loads of care, sweating and running away / coming back when fortified required.
Mick's Loctite might do if it will fill in and cover up any hoo-has with tears or ragged cuts...
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12 hours ago, Morgana said:
Following on...I took the top pivot off too, and have now forgotten what it looks like when I'm rummaging, despite thinking I'd put everything in a carefully labelled bag. Is it a clevis pin with a starlock washer on? Any photos?
Will check this afternoon, and upload.
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Converted saloon? That's a fitting for an aftermarket / home made hood frame pivot on top of the wing plus an added lip for the rear of a hood across the deck; no sign of anti-burst locks on the b-posts either. Check the door glasses - rounded at the top rear means convertible, square is saloon, but they could have been changed at some stage. If you have the documents then the commission number will end in DL for a saloon, CV for convertible. Looks interesting; do you have any remnants of the hood at all?
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On 22/04/2024 at 10:00, russ01 said:
Hi everyone I have a 1968 triumph herold 13/60 .
Forgive me for finding that funny... it struck a chord with me as my own 1200 was advertised as a Trumiph Herlad and the cars in our house are now all referred to as 'Trumiphs'.
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Currently on Facebook, £7500, Nottingham area. NOT perfect but a great base for improvement.
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Just had a trial fitting and the rubbers are still supple and as new, going round the corners is a bit tricky as they're not moulded, but the biggest problem is going to be the right-angled corners where the upright section meets. It's not as simple as just cutting edge to edge due to the shape required to fit both glass and bodywork, and any gap will be quite noticeable. Any ideas before I start trimming?
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59 minutes ago, trigolf said:
That no. plate looks v small - possibly Italian - Turin??
If it is, it might be a pic from Michelottis studio?
It's from the Graham Robinson collection, they're selling a lot of his stuff off. I did find that photo on page 88 of his Herald and Vitesse book, it's the 'Kenilworth Dragster' Harry Webster's personal souped-up car that was owned and driven by him before the Vitesse became reality. It's a Coupe with a vanguard engine, and the bonnet was designed by Michelotti for the intended new Vitesse, so that might explain the left-hand-drive and the Italian numberplate to road test it over there.
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It's soul-destroying some times; my daughter is currently house-buying and after waiting ages for something nice to come along, they view, bid, and then something happens (often seemingly like an under the counter brown-envelope deal) and it gets sold to someone else, not necessarily the highest bidder either. Then the process begins again. The car for you will come along, just keep an eye open. (And remember the perfect car will only come along after you've bought one already and you'll spend hours poring over photographs, ignoring the faults, and wondering why you didn't hold on... when in reality it's no better than the one you have already. Done that.)
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Glove box cover colour?
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Wisteria, or Pink Wisteria. Du Pont 84281; probably other codes are available.