Colin Lindsay

I've found that blue ones are rubbish, they split as I fit them on! Like John I prefer the orange variety, mine are Ignite brand in boxes of 90, about a tenner for XL and are sometimes fit to be reused when I'm feeling Scroogish.

Prices vary, I sold two GT6 carbs recently, front and rear matched, for £37. Another single carb (front, I think - see photo) in excellent condition with new diaphragm failed to sell at all. Check eBay for prevailing prices but they're not really worth much these days, which I found to my cost.

...and that's only with THREE coffees so far. Can I attempt to redeem myself? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196112771291?itmmeta=01J3HW22P7EQ85WQFJQR70DWTT&hash=item2da93b68db:g:ATEAAOSwtnpXpba9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHckndkNf6eIj0kUS%2FfNQt8DYwOSoctfzaw5IzDcd0BV9QOhGBg5x62AqgdGzEZ1X7gBkHLuW4CHeCzU34AB5yNVnyLytrBjvasjq4eZ1FIcd0RwJ53cV5gxE83bv6fHsfRpVEJEGoFiFicUHCCLfWLO4VuJVzHLbaWh%2B6xAZpy2whxlyxChamV20Tf28QJZ1TlMcYnp3OsUpFwjhjFOKEukZ4%2F7MmCGyH6pIT0Dktg7ml54mP5%2Fp9nM03EPUeKdzA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5ariLycZA

They are; same size and originally made by Qualcast the Lawnmower people! Sadly I got rid of the last set of Herald front drum brakes that I had to a Lotus driver, I hope they stopped him better than they did my Herald.

Another quickly red and undigested read for me.... apologies

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191112864420?itmmeta=01J3GCJQ7FPFVFG05TTFJYTRRF&hash=item2c7f36e2a4:g:QboAAOSwL2Rh8XrN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwGtBGdWa2awbVdp4IIKyQ4zextEkH1YIuFqRnEef%2Fq3W6m2GOPhCq7ipEXnznx2SDeMufcuLlLx3B3F0DO%2B8Y6bwsamzQIAbIXHOUDyAE5D8TSdvptNjQ0A7KRNayAnQI4WjBixXLu%2FAs78X%2FH2ZSCH0CrUaUB5KiPh7Qkj7jA%2BGxVELH3UXdnroE%2F2Ounx2srbAfrW%2FHfdNr%2BX7T%2BlhfX7wabEUbQ39n%2B9WF7v2uah8qauE1WxIp%2FgA9wwKhCDGbQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-rzyoycZA £3 each approx.

Original versions 'plug-in' to the end of the chassis rail using a smaller box section to fit inside the main rail, some reproduction versions just weld onto the end. I know that better-made chassis outriggers have a 'tab' on top that can be folded around the rail and welded where accessible to add strength to the top edge, but never saw the rear ones with that. Access to the top edge is limited with the body on, but it depends how far you'll want to go - if it can be loosened and jacked up that may help some.

I must admit I've never seen them new, most of mine are rusted at the lower edge where it is double skinned and screws into the chassis. I've managed to get some good second-hand ones on eBay over the years but the only solution may be welding a patch, or replacing that long lower extension with better metal?

I really hate companies who do that and have talked on the phone about why they hit me with a renewal of, say £500 then tell me, when I phone, they can do it for £320. I don't need a Henry Cole-style haggle, nor so I need to be hoodwinked into paying an unnecessarily high price just because they think I can throw money away and so won't enquire. Is there any other kind of business, anywhere, that does that kind of practice?

Love it. Wouldn't have any need for it myself (looking at yet ANOTHER project car, and haven't started the last two) but that must be eminently saveable as a good fun car, given the base model on which it's built. Woodwork should be simple enough if all else is re-usable.

As a general rule I'd say repro usually have some kind of mangled or flared bolts to prevent movement or removal - see the the ends of the ones in the first photo; originals have bolts that are tied with wire. The wire ones are the easiest to restore as they're designed to come apart, whereas the repros are 'solid state' as they used to say. I restored that one with black polybushes and 20 grade wire.

The wrong rotor arm will break that contact off; happened to me (very embarrassingly during filming by the BBC) but if you've now fitted the correct arm that should be cured. If you could borrow or buy a set of the lead testers - those add-ons that fit between the lead and plug and light up when sparked - they may show if there's any spark at all while you move or adjust other components. I use them all the time and have found them very effective.

If it's possible, it should be easier to just drop the outer tube, undo the top and lower clamps, and slide it downwards. It's designed to move anyway if the steering is adjusted; so long as you don't disturb the sliding joint on the column it's simple. (That's the other part of the adjustment; if the wheel needs moved upwards and away from the column then you can lengthen the column but it requires precise setting at the sliding joint)

Those solid joints will transmit a lot of road noise, so if you have a hard, for example a wooden, steering wheel you'll feel it at the business end. I tried one of those on the GT6 and replaced it soon afterwards. Some of the other joints (not that one) also require shortening of the steering column. I'd have a go at rebuilding the old one, I've done it before now and it's easier than you'd think, although it needs to be one of the old original versions NOT the repro copies. Is the play up and down movement - might just need tightening?

What's the centre made of; could it still by-pass the plastic outer or screw connectors and earth via what metal there is? I remember cars in days gone by earthing through the choke cable, which could on occasion glow red... but it was all metal in that case.