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Colin Lindsay

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Colin Lindsay last won the day on June 18

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About Colin Lindsay

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Scarva, Northern Ireland
  • Cars Owned
    GT6 Mk1 (sold), 1967 Herald 1200 Estate, 1964 Herald 1200 Estate, 1964 Herald 1200 convertible, 1970 13/60 convertible and far too many spare parts.

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  1. Looking great, here's health to enjoy. Almost the twin of mine, bar the tan interior! (and the wheels)
  2. Haven't tried it yet... but there's a thought!! I'd guess about four? The Freelander takes eight with the seats down, and the Herald seems longer inside but not so tall. Might even encourage more use of the Estate as a working classic?
  3. There's an interesting point raised there. Any vehicle parked in a space takes up the same amount of room regardless of emissions or age. I can understand reductions for smaller vehicles or increased tariff for huge ones, but emissions would seem to be irrelevant for parking. We have a roughly similar problem locally with blue-badge holders; the main street was getting congested with parking every day due to a very successful cafe, plus band displays in the small garden on Sundays. Nothing could get through and HGVs were a nightmare. They brought in parking restrictions to ease congestion, but made blue badge holders exempt. Now the street is still impassable on Sundays or more popular weekdays, and they're all blue-badged cars so entitled to be there, and traffic still cannot get through. It's amazing how many huge 4x4s and camper vans need blue badges these days (and need front-row parking so that no-one else can see past them...) but exemption didn't improve the parking problem one bit.
  4. That's the greatest reward of all. You certainly seem to have done it right!
  5. Sorted the rear hatch seal problem. The door seal is a flap seal at right angles, so that it closes into the door, but the rear hatch seam flanges sit facing the hatch, not side on as the door is, so that kind of seal can't work! D'OH! I managed to find the old bubble seal and it was a perfect fit, and also cured the gap problem. All I need to do now is adjust the lock catches and it's all sealed.
  6. The ball is under the accelerator jet, the curved little guy in the photo with the hexagonal nut, but no spring, just a washer.
  7. My elderly and recently deceased mother always referred to that as the 'Famous Turkey" so that's how it will always be known in our house.
  8. Scared me too... to the 'careful and slow' stage, but I've done it many times before. It's when you get blase then you make a silly mistake that usually costs money. Having no screen in the car meant I could roll it forward enough to close the bonnet, then roll it away and down onto a trolley. Little four-cylinder engines are much easier than the Gt6 engines used to be, I had a heavier hoist for those. The straps came from a metalworker, donated once he had moved all the steel they had come with. Miles stronger than the blue bailer twine I used back in the day! Same technique on the estate, but no bonnet that time....
  9. It is sad, but it does seem to be the current trend: price the motorist off the road, reduce congestion and encourage use of public transport. We're going back to olden times when only the rich could afford to drive and they can pollute all they want. Sadly the Gov 'Vehicle Certification Agency' only goes back to 2001, and will soon be updated to 2019. No help there, and that's the official Gov record!
  10. This one from a modern Audi is a perfect fit for the Herald / Vitesse, bar working out the fine points of how to attach it. I'll have to get hold of a spare hoodwell cover and cut / stitch accordingly to sit properly and cover the attachment points.
  11. Many a man has celebrated NOT being a Father... One recent FB post I read concerned a girl who had taken THREE pregnancy tests, all positive, and was now crying that she couldn't afford to look after three kids...
  12. "Bean by bean the sack fills". If you know what book that quote is from, Happy Days! I loved it. All it means is: one little job after another and you get there eventually. I'm getting there with the little jobs, still a lot of head scratching, still a few setbacks, but overall it's progress on the estate. I'm still cleaning the rear hatch, in fact I made the mistake of fitting it first, so to clean the very grimy underside I'm having to work almost upside down. I've no idea of what that grey scum is that coats all of my paintwork, but the Estate chassis and front suspension turrets were covered in it and it seems the inside of the rear hatch is too. It comes off eventually but needs a lot of cleaning. I managed to get to the bottom of why the rear hatch wouldn't close, too. The rear load area baseboard was bought NOS from Rimmers back in the 1990s (I think £95?) as a clearance / sale item advertised in The Courier. It was mint, too, but sadly not 100% as I found out just recently. might have been a factory reject? The chrome rubbing strips - there are five - extend the length of the rear load area. As you can see in this photo, they're different lengths. Now: WHY are they different lengths? Here number one is short, two is long, three is short, four and five (out of sight) are long. The reason for the short ones is that they sit where the rear catches are, so have to be recessed. It took a lot of headscratching to realise that the centre one here is short, and shouldn't be... so a quick inspection revealed that someone had put strip number 5 in the middle, and strip number 3 - a long one - at the outer end. This long strip was hitting the catch and preventing the hatch from closing. As all the rivets were identical and untouched it appears this was a factory defect. The solution was to drill out the rivets and swap over the strips. The actual drilling out was the easy part; replacement was not. The rivets are 5/16 and 1/2inch long, and I had none! It took some time but I finally managed to source some online and at time of posting they're on their way. I was also experimenting with rear hatch seals; I had a seal already but it's a bubble seal and at present I can't find it! It's about a foot longer than a boot seal, so I've either used it already and cut it down for some Herald boot or other, or else I just haven't recognised it in the spares pile. I therefore pinched the driver's door seal, which is a COHBaines flap seal and not yet cut to length so plenty to spare. It's not cut to fit, and I even managed to find the two stainless clamps which keep the seal out of the way of the hatch locks - they had been stored in some box or other and came to light after a little bit of searching. That one needs a little bit of adjustment but I'm not sure about the seal itself. I reckoned the bubble seal would be too thick and might affect the closure, like the doors, so went for the flap seal instead. It's fine all the way round except for one area halfway up where there's a considerable gap. This is in the area where the C-post meets the rear wing, but is the same on either side, and there's nothing out of place of requiring adjustment that I can see. Ignore the state of the inside, that's the grey stuff I was talking about earlier, but the door is tight top and bottom and does not seem to be out of place anywhere else. From the outside, the gap is the same as any other estates I've photographed for reference over the years: I may have to dig out the bubble seal and see if that improves things. That's quite a gap, never mind air and noise, the rain will be pouring in! If the bodywork won't help, the seal will have to. The other main bit of headscratching has been the wiring. In the estate the loom comes along the passenger side, then splits to go to the rear light unit on that side, but then up the inside of the C-post, across the roof, down the other side, and to the rear light unit there. In the Autosparks loom that I bought new, we had the connections to the rear nearside light, but then a long section of almost eight feet with three short red cables, one green, and one green / purple, and one hugely long red on its' own. The cabling coming down the C-post didn't correspond at all. I could work out the red cables or the green, but that huge green / brown? Things were confused even further when I followed the cables to the rear hatch pressure switch for the interior courtesy light - it's black / brown. There was nothing in the Haynes manual at all, UNTIL I realised I had an Estate supplement. This told me that the green / brown cable was the power for the courtesy light, and the black / brown was for the switch, changing over at the light unit itself. The Autosparks loom doesn't have a green / brown, but three reds. This means that if the courtesy light works in the same manner as the dashboard unit then it's permanently live, and the switch completes the earth. I therefore can't complete the wiring until I fit a battery and test which one is worked by the dashboard light switch - the tail light cable - and which one isn't - the courtesy light power source. In a further eureka moment I realised too that the loom has been made in one piece, not split as the original was, so the long section is meant to replace the part that goes across the roof. The very very long red cable is for the numberplate illumination. As I don't need these, my section up and down the C-posts being in good nick and my numberplate light already being connected, I'll wait until I have power before connecting them together and I'll curl the extra up out of sight rather than cut. The rest of that long section lies across the boot floor under the fuel tank so is safe from damage. It's a little setback, but things are progressing nicely elsewhere and an extra hour or two won't make any difference. It took me nearly two days to fit the replacement rear overrider too, the sealing strips fell off every time and I had to resort to gluing them in place first. I hope the new ones last longer than the removed ones, which were fitted brand new back in the 1990s and never even saw the open road. Even that new one isn't perfect; I've centralised the Triumph logo on my phone case over a bubbling area. Those were bought new, too; lovely clean shiny metal underneath but poor preparation for the chrome. I wonder how long it will last? In addition to the body work I found I'd had a slight accident some time ago; walking past the NOS door handle I came too close and snapped off the key in the lock. This only came to light when I tried to fit spare keys in an attempt to find the 'correct' one without realising that it was in the lock already. I was able to pick the broken one out of the lock with a needle, but having lost the head I had no key number for a replacement. No alternative but to take the handle off... a bit of difficulty here getting my hands up inside the door with the glass fitted, but I got there and the key number was on the barrel. I assumed it was FS 906 rather than FP 906 and Replacementkeys.co.uk supplied me with two for £7. They actually worked first time, no grating or sticking, but getting the handle back in was a nightmare. I could grip the setscrew, but not turn it. The bottom of the door is now full of stainless washers, I must have dropped a dozen and my magnetic pickup tool won't work on stainless. I got it fitted eventually then found the gasket lying under the car so off it came again. We're now refitted and the cuts and abrasions are healing nicely. So that's about it for this week; a lot of small jobs but the whole is growing bit by bit. The end is definitely in sight. I'll not say I'm jumping the gun any, but I removed the engine from the latest purchase today to start inspection and planning for that project, even though it's third down the list. That's a late-model GK engine from a 13/60, very grimy and hasn't run for some time so needs a good clean and then the inspection to see what's been done, what needs done, and what can be done at present without too much expense. I can work on that then salt it away for a year or two. My usual trick of strapping the engine, lifting it with a chain hoist, then rolling the car about underneath until it's clear and can be lowered onto a wheeled trolley. I've done it so many times it's now wee buns, but even so if that strap had snapped you'd have heard my wails of anguish from many miles away... however my favourite form of tinkering - strip it down, see what it's like, then leave it for years. No-one's perfect!
  13. When I resurrected the old 1200 estate I mentioned earlier back in the early 1990s, I applied for a green V5 and that was that, but when the rules changed I applied for a red V5 and declared SORN, the reason being that the VRM is still in the records and I have less bother when I come to put it back on the road (which may be in the next 12 months or less). It's a good sign that the VRM is on SORN, it MAY mean the GT6 is more likely to be stored somewhere rather than scrapped but the downside of that is possibly that the owner scrapped it, never notified of any disposal, and could be asked to provide proof of disposal eg certificate from a registered scrapyard etc. therefore has backtracked and claimed it's stored rather than just a memory! We may never know unless the current owner tells us.
  14. I suppose the simple answer is that if you want to, and can, then go ahead! Sometimes it's easier for owners to buy ready-made products as they don't have the material, tools or skills to make their own, but if you can, go for it. It's a talking point at shows when someone spots them.
  15. Good work so far, it's not easy! I was watching to see how the door reskinning went, I have at least one to attempt and may give it a go. Adjusting the gaps is also fun, you get one spot on only to find another has now moved. I also have the same problem I've spotted on your passenger side, the door sits proud of the bonnet about half way down and while I can pack the wing out to align the gap, I can't find a reliable method of making it stay there without packing.
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