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Colin Lindsay

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Everything posted by Colin Lindsay

  1. Attached to non-standard mounting points on the vertical panel at the front of the rear seat, Jeff - they rise up vertically behind the front seats to the top of the B-posts, where the fitting point is in the early cars. I'll assess how good they are in this position once I strip the interior out, but they move freely and hold when pulled. Consequently the rear trims are unused - good spot for speakers, maybe. There are rear belts but I'll maybe remove those - I wonder if I'll ever have four-up in it?
  2. Mine is fitted with a fibre washer but it's still a tight fit; as long as you're sure it's the correct version and screws right in to the end of the thread then some sealer won't do any harm at all.
  3. Ok so they referred to it as orange in the programme. Even so it did make a welcome change from endless Audis, BMWs and Porsches which are the standard Saturday morning fare these days. "Swap two sensors and the headlamps and hey - it's finished..." https://mikebrewermotoring.com/news/wheeler-dealer/mikes-triumph-tr7-has-ant-in-turmoil-in-wheeler-dealers/
  4. I think it was frozen in place by the drive home... need a scarf and a hat. Of course the weather is directly linked to the MOT Certificate, so it has rained ever since. I'll be out in it as much as I can until the really cold weather comes in, then it's rebuild time - and this time it's ONE MONTH MAX. Quote me on that. Ok may be two but I want it back on the road by March. The bonnet needs to come off to fix the poor repairs to the lower front edge under the grille - repair section purchased. I'll also have to remove the lights for repainting, so new seals and fitting kits waiting. While it's off I have to remove the engine and fit a Spitfire gearbox with J-type overdrive, replace an overdrive prop after replacing the front diff seal, there's a recored radiator to fit, blast and repaint the side valences, renovate the engine ie core plugs and ancillaries, maybe replace the valves and head gasket and repaint the block, and renovate both dynamo and starter. While that's out the black-painted bulkhead has to become white, clean up the brake-fluid-eaten top panel, replace the master cylinders and brake / clutch pipes. If I've got the centre tunnel out then bin the old carpets, soundproof the usual areas, Dodomat the tunnel cover, fit new carpets and rear trims. After that polybush all of the suspension - which requires the black front turrets blasted and repainted in white - and that only leaves the front footwell millboards, the dash surround and the dash itself to tidy up. Sounds like a lot but most of the bits are already made up and just need a straight swap. Ok so nobody really sees under the bonnet but the interior is a bit of a nightmare...
  5. Then re-oil, especially if you can see even the slightest bit of new thread, and tighten again. If the seal has been broken, albeit slightly, then get oil into the threads you can now see; if you oil them and retighten it will carry oil back into the housing and lubricate the next movement. Repeat, and repeat, and repeat, but it will work eventually. Use proper lubricating oil not paraffin-like WD40.
  6. On TV twice, today, and I never saw the entire programme either time. Both Mike and Ant were highly apologetic and almost embarrassed about buying a red TR7 convertible, which I thought was a tad unfair, given some of the cars they've worked on in the past.
  7. Say nowt Peter... it's all planned. Tomorrow morning it's a nip out, rain or shine, for coffee and a paper with the Herald parked in pride of place somewhere highly visible, no matter what it looks like.. . 'Er Indoors will be at work thinking I'm hard at work in the hall. I'll need to work twice as fast for when she does get home, tho. Plus: while I'm working in a cloud of dust from the ceiling the gearbox will be soaking away.
  8. Gunk Foam has been tried, might as well used bath foam... tomorrow I'll shell out on a stiff brush and try a variety of cleaning agents, everything from petrol to washing up liquid. I'm hoping the inside is nice and clean, given that it's still full of oil, and it will yield some spares at least; otherwise it'll be cleaned, reoiled and salted away for future use as a complete unit.
  9. https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/rear-14-light-seal-rh805763 I assume the same as the Herald versions? Paddocks have them on clearance; if that's not the correct side, they have the other as well.
  10. Getting there, Pete. All of the posts above have helped immensely... (that includes the one about passing the MOT, too, from that Lindsay nutcase...) Tomorrow, the work starts again - I have a choice of sanding a stippled ceiling prior to replastering or working on the Herald. Decisions, decisions... I also have a lovely clean and shiny gearbox to refurbish...
  11. Thanks Rob it was the Herald / Vitesse models I was interested in; the Mk1 GT6 had one there and my own 13/60 Herald also has one, but it's wearing an early Vitesse bonnet so confusing!
  12. Early cars had the rod and spring assembly you can see in the bottom right of the above diagram, it held the arm off the clutch and tight against the slave cylinder and was adjustable for instant 'bite' as things wore down. Many of our Triumphs still have the small hole in the end of the lever arm despite the rod being obsolete and not fitted for many years.
  13. I showed this one to 'Er Indoors earlier, she started at it for a bit then muttered "Green... so that means I'm stressed?"
  14. It makes a lot of sense, and it's why you'll spot me in the local Autofactors with a small snippet of hose trying to match hose clips of the closest size; not because of the ovality of a too-large clamp but because I hate having a long section of screwed clip sticking out past the screw.
  15. Sounds good! The parts you've listed, bar the side window seals, are all very common so no problem sourcing those. All of the manuals bar the very early ones cover the Estate model; there is a separate Parts Manual supplement for the early Parts Manuals but it only causes worry when it refers to parts like 'chassis frame extension' and 'stiffener piece' then doesn't tell you what they are or where they go...
  16. This link may help if you want to give it another go: http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/b30pse1.pdf
  17. Being a cheapskate I followed Doug's advice and opted for Coverdale Carpets; I've ordered a set in dark brown for the white Herald, they worked out at about £160 which should have been delivered last Friday but have not appeared yet. I don't really need opulence or expense, just carpets that cover the floors (which the current ones don't) and which will themselves be covered with footwell carpets as this will be a well-used car, and I'll expect them to get both wet and dirty. I'll report on the quality when they arrive and the fitting when I get that far.
  18. Well, it's been a busy two weeks or so since I was last on the forum; I disappeared off to recharge the mental batteries and get some things done, which include insulating a roofspace, sanding a ceiling and trimming bushes! There was also some fairly intensive work on the Herald 13/60 for an impending MOT - over here we test in Government Test Centres and the waiting list is almost three months. Add to that the fact that this Herald has been prohibited from use on the public road until repaired and retested, so this would be the first drive in the Herald since purchase. I rebuilt the brakes and bearings, but the brakes were still amazingly spongy. It may be down to the fact that they have not been bedded in - in the hopes of a quick settling-down I had already binned the terrible EBC Greenstuff pads and fitted NOS brake pads from the shelf. The system was again rebled, still poor, and a quick inspection of the rebuilt caliper revealed traces of brake fluid dripping down... Thankfully it turned out that it was just spilt fluid from the bleed process. The brakes are as good as can be; I suspect the master cylinder is worn or an incorrect size , due to the length of pedal travel - it's the extension version for drum to disc conversion using type 12 calipers, and these are 14s - and a new one is ready for fitting. I also have to remake new pipes to overcome the somewhat imaginative routing by the previous owners. The biggest problem was the rich running; the smell of burning oil from the engine is intense. The car started from cold with no choke. I simply could not strike a balance between a good idle speed and a stalled engine. My first action was to replace the carb with a spare - this made no difference whatsoever and in fact would not run properly at all; the fault was traced to serious wear on the replacement carb which might as well be binned. Next job was to strip down the original carb, and the state of the diaphragm was amazing. This one had been trapped between the two body halves... The carb itself was black with deposits and full of gritty debris. All was stripped down, jets removed and cleaned. A new diaphragm fitted, the piston would not seat, and close examination revealed a bent needle. This was also replaced, but the engine still ran very rich. The fact that the car was idling for long periods did not help, so I sneaked it out on the road in the dark, and drove 300 yards to a nearby Demense with a cloud of smoke so dense it showed in the rear lights. I met one car, a Range Rover, who blinded me with his full beam in revenge... mine are too high, I think, and one of the reasons for the MOT failure in 2019. It also felt very wandery, and the brakes were very soft. Back to the garage... the new sparkplugs looked like afro hairstyles. Very very sooty. This time I replaced the jets, but again it made no difference. However, I was not sure of the spare carb from which the jets had been taken - it was a very clean, almost unused version, but something still niggled. I dug out an old 13/60 carb and took the jets from that, removed the carb from the car once again, and assembled it on the bench. This time I set the mixture off the car, turning down 2.5 turns instead of the recommended three. Back on the car, it started with the choke, and died when the choke was pushed back in... looking good so far. Unfortunately the PO has fitted an incorrect choke cable on which the outer cable was too short and he had added a length of rubber tubing, so I decided to risk the cable with an unclamped outer and manually set it at the carb. I tuned the idle by ear and it seemed alright... Next job was to align the headlamps, which were so far off they signalled to passing aircraft. It was quite a difficult job to align them as the adjusters were all stuck or painted over, but eventually with the aid of my garage door I set them to low and left. They'll have to do. Following the discovery of sooty black water dripping on the garage floor I reckoned the silencer was defunct, but could find no holes in it... however take no chances. I pinched this new one off the red convertible and it certainly looks better, although no quieter - I've since discovered that it's a semi-sports box... Back on the bench I found that the old one had split along the seam, so there was the fault - invisible from below. While it was up there I readjusted the rear brakes, in the vain hope of improving them. After that there was nothing to do but wait for Saturday afternoon. I don't think we'll pass but at least I'll know what else needs doing. SATURDAY AFTERNOON.... The first legal drive in the Herald - on the way to a pre-booked test. I wanted to go with the top down, so the weather was dry but cold. In fact it was Baltic. The Herald started well enough, and ran well, and once the choke was pushed back in at the carb end we set off for the fourteen miles to the Test Centre along quiet roads - deliberately, to avoid any embarrassment of breakdowns or clouds of smoke. Amazingly, there wasn't any, although I was paranoid for the entire journey. Pulled well, accelerated well, ran quietly.... amazing. At one point I smelled smoke but it was only a farmer burning hedges. I braked repeatedly; every few hundred yards I stood on the brakes. No idea if it did anything at all to improve the bedding-in but we did slow to a stop most of the times. At the Test Centre they took the Herald off me, into the test bay, and closed the doors. Due to Covid I have to remain outside. My parting desperately hopeful shot to the tester was: "Stand on the brakes, there's no servo in these..." Twenty minutes later they drove back out again and parked in the car park in front of all the other drivers waiting on their cars. Embarrassment... "There's a problem" announces the tester. "Can you confirm your address?" I did. "The printer's gone down. We can't print the Certificate so we'll post it out." It passed. No minors, no advisories, a full pass and no Prohibition any more. We're fully legal. I drove home in the freezing cold, 60 mph, hardly a car on the roads, it started to rain, the wipers were terrible, and I fell in love with Heralds all over again.
  19. The yahoos at the other end of my road who soup up and lower moderns rattle my windows every few minutes at weekends. I don't really mind but it's annoying when you're watching tv and miss bits.
  20. Which models had the 'Triumph' badge also fitted between the silver strip and the lettering?
  21. Check out the cheap yoga mats in various outlets, including Tescos; they come in a range of thicknesses, are usually rubbery / foam waterproof stuff, and can be cut to shape quite easily. You can make a lot of gaskets from just one.
  22. You can move the gearbox mountings up or down along the mounting plate in a number of options, and I think Wagger has already posted somewhere that the engine is already behind the turrets and there's no stretch in the prop to move it forward? I may be wrong in that, but I reckon the easiest solution is to adapt a prop to fit.
  23. If you don't want to distort the flywheel then gently does it. Two lengths of wood, each wider than the block and just thick enough to fit in behind, down between the block and flywheel, as close to the centre above and below as possible. Gently tap each protruding end in turn, towards the flywheel, until it starts to move. It should be a lot less brutal and less liable to cause damage than prising off with metal.
  24. I've replied to you in a PM, but I'll duplicate here for the rest of the posters: I'd move the engine forward to in front of the turrets, replace the gearbox mountings in the best position, buy a 50" Herald prop, and have that shortened to the distance you now require. Cutting an inch or two out of a propshaft is no big job for the professionals, and might even be a lot simpler and hopefully cheaper in the long run than sourcing spacers or flanges.
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