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Colin Lindsay

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Everything posted by Colin Lindsay

  1. Some of my local shows used to have a pre-1980 clause, and that was later amended to pre-1990, but then we had the serial complainers along the lines of "my model came out in 1988 but my actual car was made in 1992 and it's not fair that I'm excluded" which THEN became modified to 'my car first appeared in 1971 and they're still using the name so my 1995 model is excluded and it's not fair' and finally to the 'I'm a member of the Owner's Club and we have a stand so I can bring my 2023 car as I'm a Club member' so once again the real 'Classics' became a minority at some shows. When shows have limited spaces for entrants, and you see very old cars from the 40s, 50s and 60s being turned away because the field is full of 'Present Day' moderns, there's something not right.
  2. No doubt someone will come up with the 'correct' shade or paint code especially for the wheels, but as for supplier: if that's all you're painting your local Motorfactors would be a good starting point. Personally I tend to avoid Hammerite and the like but a good aerosol of the preferred colour will go quite a long way, and you should be able to find a modern alternative to the original paint quite easily.
  3. 25 years I can live with - my Z3 is 25, for example - but 25 minutes is stretching things a bit....
  4. Call it a hankering for a particular era, if you like. I remember in the 1970s going to shows full of cars from the 1950s and 1960s, models I remembered as a child. Where are they now? No-one in those days would have dreamed of turning up in a modern car and claiming it as a classic. I can't believe there's been a huge jump from 1950s or 1960s cars - which even then were all around ten to twenty years old and can't all have been scrapped since - missing out the 1970s and 1980s, and even the 1990s to a large extent and going straight to 2010 or the 2020s. It's like going to a 1950s Band Show and playing modern music - it's music, people like it, so why shouldn't it be allowed? - while those who really want the genuine article from their preferred era are left feeling let down and excluded among cars that are just everyday models in their hundreds.
  5. Saturday morning... "Classic Car Show" at The Boulevard, Banbridge. I called up at 10am in the BMW, not a classic but drier than the Herald, only to see two oiks in lowered moderns with bean-tin exhausts doing doughnuts in the carpark. That was it. I stayed until 12.00 noon, coffee and a newspaper, and when nothing else appeared went home again. Perhaps it was cancelled, perhaps all those moderns in the car park really were the 'Classic' show. Who knows? (Incidentally there's another next Saturday at a local church; £10 for cars, public get in free. I pay to display my car but others get in free to see them? Work that one out. They'll make Springsteen pay to perform, next.) However whilst idly wandering the shops I had a look at some of the artwork they use to cover empty units. Presumably by a local Ulster artist, but some of the detail was telling if very stylised. I wonder what his connection / interest is?
  6. I know I'm newly-fangled with the Z3 hence some of the expenditure, like a pair of front struts that I now reckon I don't need but cost me £300. I had to fix the rear fog lights - stuck permanently on - for MOT, so needed a £30 switch plus a full service which included a new thermostat, but I also replaced the front brake discs and pads and gave the underside a full Wax treatment. The exhaust rattled alarmingly, so I replaced the silencer which admittedly did have a perforation at one of the welds, then found it was the CAT. It was embarrassing if driven down a street as pedestrians could hear it echoing off the buildings, so as it spoiled the image completely(!) it had to go too. THAT was £1700, no exchange as the BMW mechanics reckon the internals have been removed over the last 25 years as it's dated 1997. Replacement hood window was £100. Replacement stainless petrol tank straps were £75, the originals were crumbly, and only a tenner for new seat bushes. Rear tyres were about £180 a pair. Get that airbag system sorted and it'll see no more for a while, although the headlamp switch illumination doesn't work - that will really annoy me until I replace the £5 bulb after about ten hours labour as it requires parts of the dash removed, and the exhaust joint bolts are not the proper sprung bolts so I'll scour eBay for replacements. As with the Triumphs, little details get on my goat until properly sorted. Incidentally I replaced the exhaust last night and the car is transformed; not only much quieter but more power at low revs. I was always surprised at how poor the acceleration was in lower gears. The CAT has been messed about with and no doubt blocked. All I need to do is work out where exactly the vibration damper sits on the main pipe, or if I even need it, and that's it done.
  7. Nil desperandum, if that's how it's spelt. I don't really despair, just grumble out loud and take on the challenge. I've just fitted the new exhaust, not as well as I'd like (it seemed a slightly different profile to the old, so some of the flexible joints are not as square as I'd prefer) but no leaks or blow-outs. Currently trying to work out where the vibration damper goes as there are no clues. I need the car tomorrow as family are all working or on courses so taking theirs, so it'll be roadworthy by then. I'm not used to this kind of expenditure in recent years; exhaust, tyres, and small sundry parts have cost me 75% of the purchase price already. It had better behave! Conversely I'll be in a position where I can't sell it as I'll never get the outlay back. I did manage to get the Freelander through MOT, clean slate and in quite good condition, so that's a bonus.
  8. I'd agree, home made version. Looks well made and a nice add-on for an electric pump.
  9. I think yours is Mk2? The GT6 Mk1 had upright overriders which bolted to this bracket - see photo of where mine was - but the Mk2 doesn't have the overriders, just the bumper, so I suppose it's not needed in those models.
  10. Removed and cleaned passenger pretensioner and contacts; removed and cleaned the short cable from pretensioner to loom along the rear of the seat, and cleaned the contacts at that main connection too where it disappears under the floor. I don't think I can swap pretensioners round as there's a different short cable connection on either side so passenger cable won't fit the driver's side except at the actual pretensioner itself, which means removing both seats yet again. NOT AGAIN!!! I might replace the pretensioner itself but have located a small BMW-specialist garage less than ten miles from me, so might call in with them for advice, as some enthusiasts are stating that the airbag warning light is not so easily reset as many claim. Worth a try later in the week.
  11. Well 50% success; the last two tyre sensors were replaced this morning on the Fiesta and so far the light has not reappeared. Happy days! Mot expires on the 15th so that means an appointment will be obtained for about 2025. Sadly the BMW seat went back in this morning and despite cleaning all of the electrical contacts from loom to seat to pre-tensioner the airbag warning light came on immediately and although the OBD reader states that the code has been cleared, it remains lit or else comes back on on restart. I can see now why so many of these modern cars are going to be scrapped as beyond economic repair.
  12. Yes. Most of the small engines are interchangeable across the range with only small changes required such as keeping the proper front plate etc.
  13. Herald owners avoid parking when facing downhill, now BMW owners do the opposite!
  14. My local Tyre Centre uses the Makita cordless impact gun, seems an impressive piece of kit.
  15. I was very surprised to find my BMW takes the blue stuff, which makes things very simple for my garage. Of course everyone else's modern takes pink, and the Herald estate is now on the green Prestone stuff (reduced to £10.50 for 5l in Tescos.) I don't know if that stuff can be mixed with anything else, there are no warnings on the container, but I'm still using it on a completely drained system with no residue of anything else in the engine already.
  16. Not the slightest smell of damp, the only clue (now that I know!) were the rusty screws in the seat runners. Ten towels so far, slid between foam and floor and left for an hour, then removed and squeezed out. I have a mountain of good clean towels from several recent house clearances being used as garage rags so have plenty spare. I hope the summer sun does go some way to drying it out completely. The foam is not only sodden, it was past saturation point and loose water was just rolling round the floor pans. I know it came in through the top roof / hood seal when the drain tube was blocked - easily cleared with some stainless accelerator cable down to where it drains in the front wing area - but I had to find out that it was blocked the hard way, first shower of rain after purchase:
  17. There's a danger of electrocution there. Believe it or not, I removed the seat, tidied up the cables, decided to look at the loom where it goes through the carpets so rolled back the carpet and: gallons of water. Never have I seen a Triumph anywhere close. This is inches of water sloshing about the floors under the seat and soaking the three-inch-thick foam soundproofing. I've gone through eight old towels mopping it up and it still runs over my fingers if I compress the foam. No small of damp, no witness marks, but wringing. If I cured the bad leak at the screen pillar when I bought the car in August, and have dry-stored or dry-used it since, this has been there six months at least. It really is unbelievable. I suppose it tells me there are no holes in the floor.
  18. Believe it or not I was over at the In-Laws Engineering Works scrounging specially machined screws and a gentleman drove in with his car emblazoned on both sides: "BMW and Mini Specialists". He reckons it's the loom has been disturbed under the carpet and just needs the connectors cleaned and replaced again. I always disconnect the battery due to the danger of air bags and pyrotechnics going off inadvertently but this means so much lost time waiting for the residual current to drain from the system before anything can be removed and checked.
  19. I've got a Creator 410 for BMWs, it doesn't reset the warning light. Allegedly there's a small length of cable from the seat to the loom UNDER the carpet that may have been disturbed by numerous seat removals. Once I get the Freelander MOT prepped it's out with the seat again, lift the carpet and see what's there. The biggest problem is the 30 minute battery disconnect every time - can't test with it disconnected but can't work with it connected.
  20. I thought with a 1998 car I would be fine, very few sensors compared to more modern, but the airbag warning light has just come on and I can't reset it. It's the 'pass side seatbelt pretensioner' and seems some delicate cable or other may have been disturbed with so many removals of the seats. Might not get near it as I've managed to get an emergency MOT for the Freelander on Sunday, so that's the priority now. Still wiping up the oil from the oil change.
  21. Cup of coffee time, here comes a litany. I thought the earlier part of the week was bad when I replaced the seat bushes in a BMW... they wear, the seat slides forwards or backwards quite alarmingly. £10 for a set of 10 (only need 8 ) but fitting is an entire pantomime. Move seat to the rear, unbolt front; move seat to front, unbolt rears, move seat to rear again. NOW disconnect battery for at least 30 minutes to prevent air bags going off, squeeze under seat and unplug electrics which is a total nightmare trying to do it one-handed but you can't fit both arms and shoulders into the available space. The seats are the heaviest seats I've ever had to lift out. THEN you discover that you forgot to move them forward again, to access the T50 Torx bolt at the rear underside so back into the car, reattach cables, replace battery, slide forward, and disconnect all again for the next 30 minutes. Seat out again, upside down and undo two small Torx screws plus the huge big one per runner. Pull the threaded adjuster out, onto the bench, dig out the remains of the old bushes, clean and replace counting the threads as you do so. Replace the adjuster, bolt into place, replace the seat, reconnect the electrics, replace the rear bolts, move the seat back, replace the front bolts... seat groans along slowly and at half speed - allegedly mis-aligned threads. Repeat the removal process including forgetting to properly position the seat so have to reconnect and disconnect the battery three times. Check both adjusters, replace seat, find that it moves well if the bolts are left loose. After a few full front-to-rear movements it seems the new bushes have settled down in the best position, retighten all bolts and nuts and sit back happy. Repeat for passenger side. NOW after all that, discover quite by accident that the seat moves up and down as well as fore and aft. Never knew that. Except the passenger side doesn't. Spend an hour on the Net trying to find out if it's actually meant to - these cars have loads of potential for options, loads of tied-up cables and connectors, heated mirrors, screenwashers and door locks, sports packs and smoker's packs, but the actual upgrade or option was never fitted to this spec of car, so it could be driver's side only. Work out that the seat makes a slight noise if the switch is moved up or down and then lever head and shoulders into footwell for a quick look, which reveals a small right-angled gearbox that tilts when the switch is pulled or pushed. Jamming this in place with a small crowbar keeps it straight and lo and behold, the mechanism suddenly works. Loads of spray grease and we have two fully working seats. Time for a small one to celebrate. As I'm on a roll, next morning it's time to replace the brakes on a Ford Fiesta and address the 'Tyre pressure sensors not found' error message. This comes on every day after about ten miles driving and is an MOT fail. One sensor per wheel, sealed for life so can't change the batteries. Replacements are £34 each plus VAT from Ford. Ran a Forscan on them but it states they're all working, but at 8 years old now changing can't hurt so bought new genuine items from Ford yesterday. Couldn't get the rear wheels off; the stupid Ford wheel nuts need a special socket and even with that fitted to an air impact gun they won't budge. Went across to a local tyre fitter, much swearing and condemnation of Ford wheel nuts but we got them off eventually. Replaced the wheel sensors, ten miles down the road: error message on again. I can't for the life of me work out what the problem is. I can cheat if we ever get an MOT, reset the warning just before the test and if he doesn't drive 8 - 10 miles during it, it won't come on again, but the cause is as yet unknown and i'm avoiding going anywhere near a Ford Dealer, since I got stung for a BMW exhaust section yesterday; old one is rattling like mad and embarrassing when I drive along so since aftermarket eBay-style ones are only Euro 2 spec, and I need at least Euro 3, went to the local BMW dealer. £1200. Do I wish to go ahead? Ok... by the way that's £1200 plus VAT so well over £1400 THEN he hits me with an exchange surcharge of £200. £1700+ for a section of exhaust. That's more than half of the price of the car. Not surprising these are being scrapped in what looks like good condition. That exhaust is going to have to outlive me. Ten minutes break then an oil and filter change on a Freelander which needs a long-reach 34mm adjustable head short-range ratchet spanner and arms like tentacles. Tonight is movie night, a small glass, roaring fire, and a good cry over the bank balance.
  22. For many years I drove Triumphs and never worried about the leaf spring buttons. Do they contribute? Well, they're supposed to stop wear, but if they're completely absent... I never noticed any noise nor excess wear without. I've replaced them in recent years on leaf spring refurbishments, but in the springs I refurbished before I just used loads of grease and wound putties round the spring leaves. As you say, there are thick ones plus the thinner 'original' types, but I didn't find any real difference in the Herald's stance after I used the thick ones on that spring last year.
  23. just as a quick question: are D-types and J-types interchangeable ie wiring and other small bits aside are they a straight fit to the same O/D prepared gearbox? Don't need one but it's just to be nosey.
  24. I've seen a custom-made 'former' (if that's the word) cut from sheet steel that fits round a section of the rim, so you can slide it under the rim against the tyre and spray that section of wheel before sliding it round to the next bit. Obviously needs cut to your specific wheel circumference and curve but saves a lot of time.
  25. For many years it was rare that I sold a car that was useable. My first one died on the forecourt in front of me as I drove off in a trade-in, gallons of water pouring out of the engine in a cloud of steam. Second one was written off on a bend, third one was a cut and shut bought in a hurry to replace the second. It was only my fourth that was bought by someone and driven to death in six months, and I saw it on the road again covered in dents and with a replacement rear door after it left me in a highly polished state. Even my first Spitfire was written off by the new owner a few months after purchase.
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