Froc

Hi Rich That is really helpful, exactly what i was looking for. I really appreciate it. Many thanks Froc

Hi all. I am going to bite the bullet and removr the broken header rail this week, with a view to repair and refit. Does anyone have a step by step guide and/or some useful pics of this process they can share with me? I suspect this job will be easy to cock up (!), so i am keen to get as much info in beforehand. Many thanks Froc

Thanks Clive. Not sure i am brave enough to weld it in the car though. Think i will try and remove the broken bit, weld it and refit it. Encouraging to hear that this is a common problem though.

Thanks Colin. Good news that it can be repaired in-situ, and thanks for the advice.

Hi all. Just put the hood up on the Vitesse, and discovered the header rail is broken. From what i can see, there is an arm off the header rail on each side, which connects it to the rest of the frame. Mine has sheared on the drivers side. Is it possible to remove/refit the header rail without removing the rest of the hood? (Thinking heat gun to soften the glue, then remove the header rail for repair). If i cant repair it, where can i get a replacement header rail from? .....or am i looking at a new frame and hood here? ???? All sagely wisdom greatly appreciated. Cheers Froc

Thanks for the advice, GT6M ????

Clive, Pete, thanks for your replies. Plenty to think about before i go underneath!

Thanks for that, Tom ????

Hi all Just trying to gather some info/wisdom ahead of a winter job. I have a mk2 roto vitesse with J O/D, which clunks on take-up of drive (forwards & backwards). There is about 1/4 inch of free movement of the prop before the diff bites, so i am assuming this is the cause. (I know there are other possible causes for rear end noise!). I plan to swap in a replacement diff over winter, and replace the UJs, bushes, donuts etc while i am down there. Can anyone help with the following? -What is the correct diff ratio for a 2l OD Vitesse? -Can anyone recommend a supplier of recon diffs? -Failing that, is there anything i can do to reduce the free movement in my existing diff? Many thanks Froc

Glad you got it sorted Doug. I had the exact same problem with my old servo, which is the reason for me replacing it with a new one in the first place. Glad it's not just me! Many thanks

Thanks Doug. The servo I took off was an original Lockheed. The replacement was Powertune's Lockheed repro, so basically like-for-like. I did bleed the servo at the outlet as you have described. In fact, I did the whole system twice (second time with the engine running!), so I am confident that the system is air-free. I have a loose theory that there are differences in the air valve assembly between the old and new units, possibly amounting to a little extra lost motion on the new unit. However, that's just a theory. Not planning to take my new servo to bits to check! ????

Hi all. I've just replaced the servo on the Vitesse (sticking air valve on the old unit). The servo is a 1.9 Powertune (Lockheed type). All is well, except I seem to have more pedal travel before the brakes bite than I did before. Brakes work fine, no air in the lines or the servo. More of a curiosity than a problem. Has anyone else fitted a powertune servo to a Vitesse and noticed a change in pedal travel? Thanks Froc

Thanks Scrapman ☺

Thanks fellas. I don't currently need to replace the head gasket. I want the top - end set as I plan to take the manifolds off to do a small job soon. Makes sense to buy a gasket set, so I will end up with some spares to hand as and when I need them. I just wanted to ensure I buy the right kit. My engine has a HC prefix, which I think is correct for a mk2 Vitesse? Thanks again ☺

Thanks Richard. I will contact Canleys tomorrow. ???? Cheers Froc

Hi all, I am looking to buy a top - end head gasket set for my mk2 Vitesse. A quick trawl on google reveals that there are 2 types (recessed, and non-recessed). Is there an easy way to determine which type I need (engine number, for example?). Many thanks

Thanks for all the advice fellas. I am going to start with shims. I will blob some blue tac on the engine high points first and close the bonnet, to give me an idea how much leeway I have with engine height. If the shim approach is no good, I will re form (!) the exhaust as suggested. Will let you know how I get on. Again, thanks for all the advice ☺

Thanks for that, Clive. On closer inspection, I can see that some shims have already been added. They do look like camber shims. I think I will add a few more (and maybe even replace the mounts while I'm at it). Thanks for the tip ☺

Thanks for that, Clive. On closer inspection, I can see that some shims have already been added. They do look like camber shims. I think I will add a few more (and maybe even replace the mounts while I'm at it). Thanks for the tip ☺

Hi all, I have a Vitesse with sports outlet manifold fitted by the previous owner (Brand n/k). I've noticed that the steering column is making intermittent contact with the underside of the manifold, which I can feel through the wheel. I am thinking the straightforward fix is to raise the engine a few mm to give the column a bit more clearance. Are engine mount shims available, or is it a case of making my own? Many thanks.

Thanks for your replies, John and Pete. I will do my homework, and get the multimeter out. I'll let you know how I get on! Cheers ☺

Hi Pete. Thanks for getting back to me. The gauge is Jaeger, but I have no info on the origins of the senders. Think I will bite the bullet and buy another sender, and see what happens.

Hi Pete. Thanks for getting back to me. The gauge is Jaeger, but I have no info on the origins of the senders. Think I will bite the bullet and buy another sender, and see what happens.

Hi Pete. Thanks for getting back to me. The gauge is Jaeger, but I have no info on the origins of the senders. Think I will bite the bullet and buy another sender, and see what happens.

Hi all, I have a Vitesse with an oil temp gauge fitted. The sensor for the gauge was in the oil filter adaptor when I bought the car, and the gauge didn't seem to work (it just flickers around zero. Doesn't ever get to 30c, the minimum reading on the gauge). The car came with a sump plug oil temp sensor. I fitted that, and connected it up, expecting that it would give a stronger reading from that position, but it has made no difference to how the gauge behaves. With the ignition on, I have earthed the sensor wire, and the gauge reads maximum, so I know the wiring and gauge are ok. Basically, I am stumped. Either both the sensors (sump and oil filter location) are broken, or I have missed something. Any ideas? Cheers Froc