Ben Caswell
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Posts posted by Ben Caswell
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I had a Mk1 Ford Escort that seized its spigot bearing so tight that you could drive the car(well a van actually) with the clutch pressed to the floor.
Had one hell of a job getting the gearbox off the back of the engine,had to use two lever bars and a lot of shredded wheat.
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Either the clutch is dragging or the spigot bush has gone tight on the input shaft.
So the lay gear is still spinning when you try to engage reverse which is a straight cut gear with no synchro .
As a get by you could try engaging first or second to stop the input shaft then try selecting reverse.
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The engine number will be on the V5c log book assuming the engine hasnt been changed.
The picture of the pump shows part of the engine number on the block.
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The box is back together with a small adjustment to the reverse lever and all seem OK
So thanks to Marcus and Pete and Robby Burns
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I think ive got the gist of it I will let him know and see if it works.
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Trying to help a friend who rebuilt a single rail box because the reverse idler was chewed up. But on rebuilding and bench test the reverse idler is dragging against the reverse gear when first is selected. Q>>why and how do we solve the problem.
Thanks
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Thanks Darren sorry its not the best copy but that scan is my only copy haven't got the original.
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Darren I have tried to send you a copy but not sure if the attachment worked let me know and I will try again.
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If it stalls when you dip the clutch it could be worn crank thrust bearings.
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One of the reasons for erratic or failure of the angle drive is that there should be a substantial washer in the connection to the gear box. Otherwise
the short drive cable in the angle drive bottoms out in the gearbox drive, causing it to buckle. There was a BMC service note which I have a copy of but cant manage to post a copy here. If someone emails me at <b.caswell@virgin.net> I will attempt to send them a copy for posting here.
Ben
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Possibly from pushing the rubber connecting pipe onto one of the metal connections!! Took me weeks to find the little blighter
as in my case it was actually stopping the fuel flow through the needle valve, but only when on full demand IE trying to overtake or going up hill..
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Would it be to reduce possible condensation on the under side of the alloy lid??
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Another possibility of the broken rings could be the result of pinking but it does seem the original rings seem to have a dubious reputation?
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Were the rings gaped correctly before fitting to the pistons?
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Are you sure its not the oil pressure switch diaphragm that has let go?
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The workshop manual only shows the overall height at the mid roof point hood up which is unladen at 4' 4½" from the ground.
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The reason that wire has pulled out is someone has used the wrong type of wire, that wire normally would be a cloth covered braided wire that is more flexible and comes fixed to the moving plate.
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Some of these pins are tapered try driving it the opposite way.
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You can drill out the rivets with the rear panel in situ if all you need to do is get at is the alloy trim.
A normal cheap pop rivet gum will do the job just measure the hole for size of pop rivet
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Would a SAH cover fit if you can find one.
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You could take the whole front vertical link off.
In fact, you will be wanting to inspect the threads on them anyway, or replace them as a matter of course.
Just release the bottom shock bolt, then the trunnion bolt, then the top balljoint bolts. Then you can get the assembly in a vice for surgery.
And the track rod end joint suggest breaking this first!!
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On a Mk1 with the same system its 42-46 Ft/Lbs but it should if possible be done on the car with the suspension loaded.
Handbrake improvers - herald , vitesse, spitfire
in Braking System
Posted
Some later cars like the dolomite use a lever with a longer arm that would do the same job.